My windshield wipers would not park so I disassembled the windshield wiper control and when re-assembled the washer would not work. So I decided to run a wire from the water pump to the battery and then to a switch to have a separate windshield wiper wash control. Now the truck won't start at all. I guess I must have fried something when I put separate power source to the windshield wiper water motor wire. I get some lights and stuff but when I try to start it acts like all the power is being sucked up somehow, I have since disconnected all that jury rig wiring, but something is very wrong here.

I don't have a clue. Do have 14. something volts at the battery.

 

Try this...
Disconnect the "NEGATIVE" battery lead and do not let it touch the battery terminal accidently.
Connect the now disconnected negative battery lead to the positive one and leave it there for 10 minutes.
This drains any stored voltage in the capacitors in the trucks computer.
While doing this make sure that all accessories are off, eg lights, radio, blower motor etc.

Remove the wire that you used to connect the leads and connect up the negative lead to the battery and see if that doesn't solve your problem.

 

Disconnected the negative and positive battery terminals and hooked up the negative wire to the positive for 10 minutes....nothing happen other then hearing the fuel pump click, no lights no start no horn...nothing.

 

My only suggestion at this point is to hook up a code reader and see if something shows up there.

 

I don't have one, maybe I can ask around. Thank you.

Don't have much money, so I can't start buying parts until I hit pay dirt. LOL.

Raining out and I'm having to ride the bus. No rain coat either other then a garbage bag.

 

I removed the ignition module and noticed that I have power coming into the module from the yellow wire, I guess the yellow bring the power in from that 50 amp fuse. So I'm thinking maybe it could be the ignition module. Only thing that confuses me is the headlights not working or taillights. Wondering if those must somehow draw power from or through that ignition module?

 

Start checking fuses maybe.
Doing a simply visual test isn't enough though.
Do you have a multi-meter to test them ?
If something is drawing voltage while cranking, check connections at the starter and block.
Odd why it would do this just from you wiring fix for the washer.

 

Motor won't crank....no power to anything at all. Do have power to the yellow wires in that ignition module. Have power going to the fuse box under the hood. Then the wiring that go to the module have power, turn the key and nothing, no dash lights, no head lights. Do have brake lights. I think the brake lights and then that little alarm for the key in the ignition is about all I've got. Even that little alarm sounds weak. Did get the radio a couple times. but don't think that works either now. Have 14.5 volts at the battery and the same with the yellow wires, (14 volts there) delivering power to the ignition module. Maybe that extra juice shot into that module and burned it up. Direct route from the windshield washer pump into that switch for the windshield washer speed control and then direct into that ignition module. About all I can figure out that happen here. Electrical stuff can sure get you thinking.

 

Here are the Power Distribution wiring diagrams for 1999 2.5l Ranger

And just as a heads up, Black wires are NOT always Ground wires, Ford uses black wires for 12volts as well.

14.5volts at battery means volt meter is wrong, car batteries are 12.3 to 13.0volts

You can get up to 14.9 volts with engine running, but that should only last a few minutes.

In 1999 most things are operated by Relays, so NO direct Power.

Print out the diagrams and test voltages at the various fuses

Battery junction box is fuse box in engine bay of course
Fuse Junction panel is cab fuse box

 

One thing I forgot to mention in all of this when I hooked that power wire from the battery up to that water wash pump. There was a black wire and then a black wire with a white line. I hooked the battery positive up to the black wire with the white strip.

I'm wondering if I hooked the power up to a ground wire? If that the case what would that have done since that wire still ran back to that speed control arm and to a grounding system?

 

If you hook up 12volt wire directly to a Ground then voltage will flow and wire will heat up until insulation melts off and wire melts.
It will melt the smallest size wire first, so if you used a larger wire to a smaller ground wire then the smaller wire would melt first, but larger one would still get hot

That's how light bulbs and fuse work

Filament in a light bulb heats up but because there is no air inside the bulb it can't "burn out" or melt so it just heats up and glows
Fuse has air around it so when it heats up it melts and separates to stop the voltage from flowing, the fuse is a smaller wire than the wire size used on that circuit, which is why fuses are rated in AMPs, if you replace a 5amp fuse with a 30amp fuse then you change the smallest wire in that circuit into "the fuse", so that wire will melt instead of the fuse

 

Turn out the wiring was ok....I just killed the battery. Charged the battery and everything is "A OK"

Windshield washer don't work but I can live with that.