you dont need a bearing puller, you need a wheel bearing nut socket, its a simple 4 prong socket that you can get at any parts place. get an inner and outter wheel bearing and a new seal and get some good grease.
take off the wheel and pull off the hub, take off the caliper and tie it up out of the way. using the special socket take off the outter hub and then pull off the locking ring. then take off the inner nut (keep all these in order as they are supposed to be where they are). pull off the rotor and the outter wheel bearing will just fall out. place the rotor on its outter face and pry out the seal from the back and remove the inner bearing. clean out the rotor and clean off the spindle good.
now, you need to pack the new inner bearing with grease really good, dont be afraid to get your hands covered in grease, its the best way to be sure its really packed in the bearing well. rub some grease into the rotor and spread it around inside there, then drop the inner wheel bearing into it. now tap the seal onto the rotor. rub some grease onto the spindle, dont be afraid to use a decent amount of grease when doing all this. now slide the rotor onto the spindle, it shoudl slide right through the inner wheel bearing. Add a bit more grease into the rotor from this side and pack the new outter wheel bearing really good. slide the bearing onto the spindle into the rotor.
now the important step, torqueing the bearings properly, so far noone in this thread has told you properly how to do it. First spin the inner nut all the way on and torque it to 25 FT-LBS while spinning the rotor. Now back the nut off 1/4-1/2 turn without touching the rotor. now torque the inner nut to 18ish INCH-LBS (yes INCH-LBS, not FT-LBS) most people dont have an inch-lb torque wrench but this is not very tight at all, just grab the socket and hand tighten the nut, don't crank down on it, just snug it up tight by hand. now slip the locking ring on so the little nipple is in one of the holes. and finally spin the outter nut on and torque to about 250 FT-LBS yes 250, this one needs to be quite tight because there have been issues with them losening up when driving and the book torque specs of 125 FT-LBS on the outter nut is just too loose.
So that is how you replace the wheel bearings. It is a VERY important part of the truck and the torque specs and process needs to be followed preceisely, if you do it right the new bearings will last a very long time and there will be no noise from them anymore. If you tend to submerge your truck past the hubs in water and mud very often you should take the wheel bearings out and repack and retorque them after to get any water or mud out, but thats just more of a maintenece item. any more questions feel free to ask.
'94 2.3L, M5OD, BW1354 manual, 4x4, 31x10.5 BFG A/Ts, 15x8 AR Chamber teflon rims, 7.5 4.10 lock-right w/disks, D44 SAS 4.10 aussie-locker, duff traction bars, electric fans, spintech muffler, duff poly body mount bushings, Lightforce RMDL140's, cobra 18wxst II, herculined floor, 375,XXX
'87 camaro 305 carbed (needs engine)
'92 subaru legacy 2.2L Turbo (needs tranny)
TRS Tech Support Staff