I have never done this for good throttle response but for electrical integrity yes this should be standard methodology for a good running system; heavy gauge grounds, bare metal connections and protection of the connections.
When you think on it the only ground for the engine is the negative cable from the engine head to the frame, with a lot of dirt and $hit buildup from the road and trail, and the grounds are hunting for a path to get back to the battery (actually to run from the battery).
Adding ground wires from the alternator to the frame and a good HD ground wire from the engine to the frame and then to the battery is a great idea and it will not only reduce resistance in the ground path but should increase the output of the alternator and make sure the full current/voltage is running in the systems.
Another thing to do is add a ground wire from the negative post of the battery or a ground stud close to the battery to one of the starter bolts, this too allow full current flow to and from the starter allowing the starter to run at full power without working its @ss off.
4x4, 5sp, Std Cab, Stepside, E4 Red
4” Lift - Coil-Overs, 6” SkyJacker Leafs - No Blocks (Mistake)
31 Spline FX4 Rear Axle, 4.56s and OX Locker, Hurst Shifter w/Optional Stick and "Made by Grev" alignment adapter