I found running 33” tires requires more than 4.10 gears.
I tried it for a while and the mpg $ucked, thinking no better 15 mpg.
Had the gears changed to 4.56 and, and… all I can say is, man I had missed the way it now drives and didn’t even know it. Easy on the highway, around town I can get to fourth, never down shift while cruising at 55-60, better throttle response.
Oh ya, I got 17mpg right away but haven’t checked since but now I can actually drive with less pedal so things should get better from here.
I do a lot less driving now so it is hard to get a good reading, I am so happy with the way it now drives I almost don’t care what the mpg is.
No matter what you do for mod, air in or air out, even a chip, the 33’s on 4.10 or higher gears (3.73) will kill the mpg. With 33’s and 4.10s need more gas pedal to move along, the engine will be force at every turn or hill and if auto the trans will shift and up goes the revs costing mpg.
A gear change is pricey, both sets if 4x, new install kits, maybe a locker, axles maybe bad, brakes are always bad or so it seems. But the end results will be a better driving truck, more enjoyable to drive and better mpg.
Once you get re-geared then consider the intake, the exhaust, maybe a rocker arm change or maybe even a new camshaft, things that will bring in more HP and believe it or not sometimes better mpg.
Also, remember three things burn extra fuel, take off, passing and the hills.
Taking Off do it slower and save gas; Passing do it gradually don’t just go for it all out; and Hills get a gradual increased run on the hill don’t wait for the last minute and push the pedal to the metal to keep going.
Do all of these slower and you can save money.
4x4, 5sp, Std Cab, Stepside, E4 Red
4” Lift - Coil-Overs, 6” SkyJacker Leafs - No Blocks (Mistake)
31 Spline FX4 Rear Axle, 4.56s and OX Locker, Hurst Shifter w/Optional Stick and "Made by Grev" alignment adapter