Well I stripped the 8mm pinion shaft bolt and can't get it out. (On the Ranger 7.5 diff)

I've even banged a 5/16's and 7mm socket on it only for it to slip off at the first knock of the impact gun.

Any ideas how I can get this out?

 

You could try to tack-weld a small 1/4 or 3/8" extention on the end of the head or try to weld an Allen key on there . . .

IMO you shouldn't have used an impact, when I redid my seals (LINK)I used a small 1/4" drive 6" ratchet to remove that little thing and it wasn't very hard.

My idea will seem retarded what I'm sure most of the guys here have

**EDIT - that bolt should have been a 5/16" initially

 

That's just it. I couldn't budge it with a 6" 1/4 drive ratchet, nor a 3/8's drive 12" ratchet with an adapter. So the next best thing was an impact on low torque/pressure with a swivel (universal) adapter.

I considered tack welding a socket onto it, but never an extension onto the end of the bolt head! Good thinking!

 

Ohh I see, I thought you went straight for the impact on such a small bolt

Is the driveline under tension, if so the pinion shaft might be putting pressure on the bolt?

 

*do not tack weld* Doing that can cause the pinion and ring to arc.. or arcing within the bearings. That is if you plan on keeping them..

Using a small grinder (like a dremel tool) Cut two flats on the flange of the head. And the distance between them being a snug fit to an appropriate sized open end wrench. Then using that dremel tool clean up the hex shape and hammer on another socket that will fit.

Between the two you'll have doubled your contacting surafaces of the wrenches. That way you'll stand a better chance of turning it.

Rich

 

I'd try useing a propane torch to heat just the bolt head.You don't need it cherry red hot.If Locktite was used on the bolt ,that should soften it enough to break free.

 

another idea, is sears has these special tools for getting on bolts that have been rounded off. U could try that.

 

 

That bolt should not be torqued hard at all. From the heat and cooling of the diff it probably got frozen in there. I'd try heating it with a torch, just make sure you clean off all the flammable stuff.

 

i wouldn't do that......you could warp the carrier if it gets too hot....

 

yea, I'd suggest heading the head of the bolt with either a MAPP or even a propane torch as locktite is definitly used from the factory on that pin, then maybe try a set of needle nose vice grips on it and get it to break loose. Once it breaks the locktite loose it should spin right out no problem which is what the heat is for, and yes you can get that bolt good and warmed up just be careful nothing in there lights on fire...


IF you cant manage to get it out at all, you can grab a large punch and a BIG hammer and actually hammer the crossshaft out of the carrier snapping the retaining bolt at which point you would at least be able to pull the axleshafts and pull the carrier out to either work on it on a bench somewhere or just get another open carrier for a 7.5 for about $5 bucks and setup the ring gear on the new carrier.

 

get some of those robo grip pliers they proly wont get it out but it will do a great job tearin it the rest of the way up. i hate those things

no but really a lil heat should do it an also the threads on that are bout 3/8 long and they start right at the head so you just got to heat a lil spot

 

I would try a little heat on the bolt head. Just enough to soften up any loctite that might have been used. Then tap the head with a cold punch a few times. The next thing is to find the next size smaller socket, metric or SAE, that’s close to fitting it and tap it on. Once you have it on…try tightening the bold just a little first, then unscrew it. If that doesn’t work, try what FMD suggested or if you dont want to spend the bucks for the tools try a cold chisel and tapping the side of the head to unscrew it.

 

I now have the perfect method for removing stripped bolts.

Follow this procedure:

• Beat the heck out of it for 2 days, then give up.
• Take another look, then get REAL lucky and have the Matco tool guy DRIVE THROUGH YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD just as you're about to give up again.
• Run like mad, waving your arms like a monkey, and chase down the Matco Tool guy like he's got a truckload of free ice cream
• Allow him to grace you with his presence and almighty tool collection
• Remove bolt effortlessly
• Be happy, drink lots of water.

Ha ha...I got so lucky today! That Matco tool guy was a God-send.

He let me borrow a set of bolt extractors and with a little blow torch and hand-cranking it came right out.

CHECK OUT THIS DAMAGE!!!


The rest of the removal was a piece of cake!
Slide the pinion shaft out of the way of the axle shafts.


Push each axleshaft inwards to allow access to the U-clip. Remove U-clip from the end of the axleshaft with a pair of needle-nose pliars.


Lift out rotating assembly. Make sure to set aside the bearing race from each end.
If re-gearing, remove the 10 ring gear bolts.


Make sure to have lots of newspaper or cardboard to lay the greasy stuff on. I have never in my life seen so much grease!


Would there be any use in making a "How-To Re-gear" thread using these and other pictures I took?

 

I wish I would have saw this months ago, I have an explorer axle sitting in my garage that i pushed the pin almost all the way out, but I Didnt rotate it, and its stuck inside the diff now, and its too damn greasy to pull it out

 

Drain all of the fluid out, then fill the diff case about halfway with gasoline. Fill the rest with water, let soak, then spray out with the hose. This will get most of the grease out so it's easier to handle. Just know the gasoline/grease/water mixture should be disposed of properly, and it kills grass.

 

came in handy for me, used it once now it sits in my tool chest lol

 

(See steps 2 and 4 in procedure above)

 

I hope you marked which side and what orientation the bearing caps came from as they are machined to the housing and must be replaced in the exact position they came out of...

 

Yes I did label them, although I won't be using this rear end. I'm trying to part it out or get rid of the whole thing.

 

You could have welded on it if you made sure to put your ground VERY close to where you were welding. That could keep you from arcing across the ring gear or the carrier bearings.

 

ok cool, It's hard to get anything for 7.5 parts, it seems most people have one or two lying around in their back yard (I have my old one still sitting in the back corner heh) but it's good to hear you got that pin out.

Oh and for parting out, keep in mind that the axleshafts are identical between the 7.5 and the 28-spline 8.8 so it gives you a much larger base of people looking for parts.

 

Well.. sure anyone can do it the easy way. But where is the fun in that?