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A few questions. (Differential, Ball Joint/Control Arms, Upholstery, Random)

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Old 05-04-2010
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A few questions. (Differential, Ball Joint/Control Arms, Upholstery, Random)

If I decide to get a POWERTRAX® LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER how do I know which model number to get? I need to know my gear ratio essentially. How do I find that out? (Truck specs are in the signature if that helps)

I know that when you do upper ball joints you have to replace the whole upper control arms with it. When I do the lower ball joints do I have to do the lower control arm with them also?

I am resecuring the the carpeting since my plastic pieces that hold them down are rusted off. They have 4 screws that hang out under the car. The screws are COMPLETELY rusted. The whole piece just came off. I figure I can just screw the old pieces back with new screws and I will be right as rain but how should I get the 4 rusty screws out without destroying the plastic? Has anyone done these? Any advice?

Also:

I have a 05 FX4 Ranger find on a salvage site, VERY INTERESTING, details here:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f54/sa...-6k-mn-106434/

I am still looking for some miscellaneous parts, if you have anything 01+ from an Edge, 4x4 XLT, or FX4 you want to get rid of, check it out:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f54/va...y-ohio-106160/
 
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Old 05-05-2010
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Originally Posted by Masteratarms93
If I decide to get a POWERTRAX® LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER how do I know which model number to get? I need to know my gear ratio essentially. How do I find that out? (Truck specs are in the signature if that helps)
Check to make sure your have an 8.8, should be on the tag on the diff cover, also the year and type of vehicle the axle came out of.
The gear ratio has nothing to do with the Lock Right, BUT if you decide to go to 4.88 or higher gear ratios, I have heard you need a new Differential/Carrier.

Originally Posted by Masteratarms93
I know that when you do upper ball joints you have to replace the whole upper control arms with it. When I do the lower ball joints do I have to do the lower control arm with them also?
No! Use a good quality Ball Joint like MOOG, pays off in the long run, Lifetime guarantee and all.
 
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Old 05-05-2010
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82
BUT if you decide to go to 4.88 or higher gear ratios, I have heard you need a new Differential/Carrier.
dont post false info!!! a 2 min search yielded the correct answer... there is no carrier break for the ford 8.8 rear axle.
 
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Old 05-05-2010
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So basically, no lower control arms, but yes to uppers. And all I need to do for the lock-right is check for a tag on the axle? The axle is stock and I am not changing my gears.
 
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Old 05-05-2010
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I would recheck the FALSE POST… new carrier is something that I am pretty sure is needed but I will check again.
By checking the tag you will determine if it is an 8.8 for sure, if you are not going to re-gear and you have an open diff, not a posi unit then the Lock-Right goes right in… LoL.

In re-reading I am not sure about the new diff for 4.88s.
I have read that if you have a Torsen Posi (sp) (like the Lvl II) then it will only go to 4.56s, just something to double check IF you decide to go 4.88 and up.
Sorry for any confusion but it is always better to play on the safe side and be prepared.
 

Last edited by Scrambler82; 05-05-2010 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 05-05-2010
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Not sure what you meant by the previous post, but....

No Slips will also fit into LS carriers, the LS carrier is just considered weaker than the open carrier. The open and LS are not the same part #s but you do not need an open to install one.
 
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Old 05-05-2010
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PP was to justify my stand on a new Carrier if the OP went to 4.88s BUT I may have been wrong; not sure on the Open Diff
The postings I have read since have stated if the Toren Posi Unit is being used AND you plan a Gear Upgrade then a new carrier would be something to thing about.

As stated the Lock-Rock should slip in the Open Carrier and since the OP doesn’t plan a gear upgrade then all should be fine.
 
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Old 05-05-2010
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82
I have read that if you have a Torsen Posi (sp) (like the Lvl II) then it will only go to 4.56s, just something to double check IF you decide to go 4.88 and up.
well he obviously doesn't have a LV2... READ! look at his sig, he has a 4 CLY w/ 2wd, definantly an open carrier..

also there is a possibility that he has a 7.5 read axle, there is also no carrier break for this axle...
 
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Old 05-05-2010
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82
Check to make sure your have an 8.8, should be on the tag on the diff cover, also the year and type of vehicle the axle came out of.
The gear ratio has nothing to do with the Lock Right, BUT if you decide to go to 4.88 or higher gear ratios, I have heard you need a new Differential/Carrier.



No! Use a good quality Ball Joint like MOOG, pays off in the long run, Lifetime guarantee and all.
Originally Posted by Scrambler82
I would recheck the FALSE POST… new carrier is something that I am pretty sure is needed but I will check again.
By checking the tag you will determine if it is an 8.8 for sure, if you are not going to re-gear and you have an open diff, not a posi unit then the Lock-Right goes right in… LoL.

In re-reading I am not sure about the new diff for 4.88s.
I have read that if you have a Torsen Posi (sp) (like the Lvl II) then it will only go to 4.56s, just something to double check IF you decide to go 4.88 and up.
Sorry for any confusion but it is always better to play on the safe side and be prepared.
Originally Posted by Scrambler82
PP was to justify my stand on a new Carrier if the OP went to 4.88s BUT I may have been wrong; not sure on the Open Diff
The postings I have read since have stated if the Toren Posi Unit is being used AND you plan a Gear Upgrade then a new carrier would be something to thing about.

As stated the Lock-Rock should slip in the Open Carrier and since the OP doesn’t plan a gear upgrade then all should be fine.
I had a lock-right with 4.10s in my 8.8. I now run 5.13s and the same lock-right. Nothing is needed as far as any kind of carrier. Problem solved.
 
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Old 05-06-2010
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Awesome. Thanks.
 
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