Leaks in what?

Maybe if you do the full treatment by putting some in your oil too. IMO, it's better to know that you have a leak than to let the gunk plug your leaks for you.

 

do not put the motorcraft stuff in the gas tank or in the oil

 

that is great to hear! i am changing mine ASAP!

 

Been using the Motorcraft PM-3 cleaner in my shop for the past few months, after using Sea Foam for the past several years, and I also agree that it works much better. Not to change the subject, but another product I use now and seems to work very well is:

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/apf.aspx




...the foam works great through the throttle body with engine running, or directly in a vacuum hose - even use it as an external engine cleaner when I can't find my GUMOUT Xtra duty engine cleaner/degreaser.

 

do i have to change my oil after this treatment? i am only 4k into my $80 amsoil change.

 

It recommends that you do change it so just wait until its time.

 

This should become a sticky, I never knew about the motorcraft version.

 

yes

 

you do not have to change the oil after one time, but if you do it 3 times like the TSB states then definately change the oil

Beard, how many miles do you have now? make sure you have access to the tool to remove the broken ones before you start, if you dont have it, the head has to come off to get em out

 

 

Why dont you like amsoil bob? ive never bought any amsoil stuff because i feel it is far too expensive

 

No real reason. He doesn't like anything aftermarket.

 

Scamsoil is a MLM company that does nothing but lie!! The reason their products are so expensive is due to the pyramid structure! They try to get you to believe that all their products are API certified, in reality there is only one, XL. Scamsoil is only a blender and packager, they buy all their base oil stock from REAL oil companies!!!

 

well i know that....my goal with my truck has been to modify it with as many stock ford parts as i can, with exception to my lift, tires, and tonneau cover, everything else has a ford part number on it

 

Here ya go: (We haven't found any BS from Amsoil yet -- just marketing hype and deception from competitors.)

http://www.ultimatesyntheticoil.com/...l_Skeptics.htm

 

37000 miles.

but it will have 40,000 on it before i get time to change them


isnt the plug really long? so i need some special socket to begin with? I heard about the tool. I may just buy one anyway. does anyone try changing them when the engine is hot? seems like they would come out much easier then anyway

 

the plugs are about 4" long, ill find a pic and youll see why they brake...another ford OHC genious motor...

 

Well, here is some right from their own website!!! They try to justify the inflated price of their products by saying you can run their oil 25K miles,
But they even issued a TSB to use their ONLY API certified oil, and follow
the vehi
cle manufacturer's OCI:

To justify the highly inflated price, they try and tell you you can run the stuff like 25K miles!!! Well, they must have gotten in trouble with this claim, because they came out with a TSB on engines that have a tendency to
sludge. Another thing they try and make you believe is a UOA will tell you to keep using the oil. From Blackstone labs, a UOA WILL NOT tell you an engine oil is sludging!!:

Some engines are more prone to sludging than other engines. VW and Audi have these engines, so they developed their own test and specs for oil
sludging. Here are the oils that PASS their tests:

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/vw_tb_17-05-04.pdf

http://dejong947.com/audi/tsb/audi.tb.17-05-01.pdf

Notice there are NO Scamsoil products listed, matter of fact, Scamsoil came out with a TSB about sludging in some engines, and recommended following the auto manufacturer's OCI, instead of the extended OCI BS they claim, to
justify the inflated price of their products!! They also recommend using their XL product, which is their ONLY API certified product!!




Here is the entire Scamsoil TSB:


http://www.smartsynthetics.com/pdf/T...dge-issues.pdf


And check this out! It's the height of deceit, they put API CJ-4 on the label, to try and make you believe it's API CJ-4 certified (latest diesel rating) and this oil
isn't API certified AT ALL!!!

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/deo.aspx

 

I bought some of the PM-3 stuff from Ford years ago to use it in the ranger after reading that TSB. Never got around to it though, just sat on the shelf for years so I can't comment on how it works. Still hoping to go pickup an F150 asap and will have to use that trick to help get the 2-piece plugs out....

 

I would NOT pull your plugs while the engine is hot unless you want the threads to come out with them.

 

yes definately not hot. i would warm it up for about 15 mins, pour the PM-3 in the holes and leave it sit. Please find access to the removal tool before starting though so you arent stranded. Hopefully you know someone around your area that works at a stealership or a garage the services newer vehicles.

These plugs are retarded, why oh why did Ford stop making gasoline pushrod motors?? Gm is retarded, but they are smart enough to make a cam in block motor still

 

wow since when did ford make clear corners for gen4's

 

there ya go mark, i knew id miss something

 

Im just messing with ya, gotta watch what you say..

 

any chance motorcraft has a larger container like a gallon?