need some rear end help
#1
need some rear end help
got some issues with my rear end in my 2002 mazda b3000 4x4 with 2" lift. i got the truck from somebody who rode it hard in the woods. had a bent axle when i got it that i replaced, among many other things. i cant seem to get rid of a vibration at 60-80 mph. ive had the drive shaft put on a lathe and its strait, ive had the wheels checked several times, and they are straight and balanced.
my main problem now is, my rear end has been leaking and ive had to keep adding oil and now im seeing some major metal shavings stuck to the magnetic plug. ive had the rear end open before, and didnt see anything wrong with any of the gears. i am now thinking that maybe the rear end/axle housing may be bent. so ive been looking for a complete rear end at a junkyard but im not sure what one will work. i know its an 8.8 rear end with 4:10 gears, but when i call they say they have nothing compatable. even one place had a 2002 ranger. anybody know what year models are compatable with my truck?
any help is much appreciated.
my main problem now is, my rear end has been leaking and ive had to keep adding oil and now im seeing some major metal shavings stuck to the magnetic plug. ive had the rear end open before, and didnt see anything wrong with any of the gears. i am now thinking that maybe the rear end/axle housing may be bent. so ive been looking for a complete rear end at a junkyard but im not sure what one will work. i know its an 8.8 rear end with 4:10 gears, but when i call they say they have nothing compatable. even one place had a 2002 ranger. anybody know what year models are compatable with my truck?
any help is much appreciated.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
The 4:10 would be less common.
Have a read here, a rear disc brake setup from an Explorer might not be a bad upgrade since you are changing the whole rear end.
Ford Ranger/Explorer 8.8-Inch Axle
You could also look at swapping out the front differential if 4:10s are hard to come by.
Have a read here, a rear disc brake setup from an Explorer might not be a bad upgrade since you are changing the whole rear end.
Ford Ranger/Explorer 8.8-Inch Axle
You could also look at swapping out the front differential if 4:10s are hard to come by.
#3
#5
i already have an 8.8 in there. why would this kit make the explorer axle fit my pickup? all the shocks and what not are in the wrong place on the explorer rear end.
whats the difference between an 8.8 with 28 spline and an 8.8 with 31 spline? other than the number of splines on the axle.
whats the difference between an 8.8 with 28 spline and an 8.8 with 31 spline? other than the number of splines on the axle.
#6
the explorer axle resides over the leaf springs where as the ranger axle resides under the leaf springs
that is why you need that kit to weld the springs perches onto the top of the explorer axle
and to weld on new shock absorber mounts to the bottom the axle
the shock absorber mounts are welded to the spring retention plate on the explorer
the ranger shock absorber mounts are welded to the bottom of the axle NOT the leaf spring retention
plate
that is why you need that kit to weld the springs perches onto the top of the explorer axle
and to weld on new shock absorber mounts to the bottom the axle
the shock absorber mounts are welded to the spring retention plate on the explorer
the ranger shock absorber mounts are welded to the bottom of the axle NOT the leaf spring retention
plate
#7
I have an 06 with the same rear end, A mechanic at the Ford dealer, told me an FX4 without level 2, should swap. Yeah, there hard to find, I got a used one, don't know what it was out of, junk yard rear ends here, run $475-$675, I'm in the processes of rebuilding my original, stock. The junker was in better shape than mine, but still a little loose. Your vibration could be caused by a sized u-joint. My clutch packs were shot, and the free play trashed the side and spider gears, ring and pinion were fine.
#8
i have to replace my leaf springs because of the dreaded flat as a pancake issue
sooo i went and measured the inner u bolt spacing , turns out my 2010 b4000 does come with the 3.25 tube diameter axle
i am getting more heavier duty leaf springs and 3/8 thick plates to ensure the axle never moves around again
sooo i went and measured the inner u bolt spacing , turns out my 2010 b4000 does come with the 3.25 tube diameter axle
i am getting more heavier duty leaf springs and 3/8 thick plates to ensure the axle never moves around again
#9
#10
#11
I've done the explorer axle swap and so have many others here. If you have any questions fill free to ask us. The axle pretty much bolts right in after you have the spring perch mounts and shock mounts welded on, aside from the emergency brake cable.
#12
1995-2003 Ford Explorer axles will work. For a ford explorer 8.8 with 4.10s and l/s look for door tag D2, for one without l/s look for 42.
I've done the explorer axle swap and so have many others here. If you have any questions fill free to ask us. The axle pretty much bolts right in after you have the spring perch mounts and shock mounts welded on, aside from the emergency brake cable.
I've done the explorer axle swap and so have many others here. If you have any questions fill free to ask us. The axle pretty much bolts right in after you have the spring perch mounts and shock mounts welded on, aside from the emergency brake cable.
#14
ok, so i scored pretty good today at the pull a part. found a 99 explorer 4x4 with the "42" axle. wasnt all that happy about it at first because it had 180,000 miles on it, but when i opened it up i notice all new seals, clean oil, and the spider gears were stamp dated 2012. so newish gears. got the whole axle disc to disc for $120.
my first question is this; i assume the best way to weld the perches on would be to line them up under the truck, get everything centered and bolted, then tach them up, pull it out and finish weld??? BUT, my only problem is my truck is up on blocks in the driveway, and the leads to my large welder wont reach. the only other welder i have is a little lincoln 135 amp mig. which is prob not enough juice. has anybody ever had success leveling, spacing, and welding the perches in a shop setting with out prefitting??
my first question is this; i assume the best way to weld the perches on would be to line them up under the truck, get everything centered and bolted, then tach them up, pull it out and finish weld??? BUT, my only problem is my truck is up on blocks in the driveway, and the leads to my large welder wont reach. the only other welder i have is a little lincoln 135 amp mig. which is prob not enough juice. has anybody ever had success leveling, spacing, and welding the perches in a shop setting with out prefitting??
#15
#16
i think what ill do is tach it in with the mig, then pull it out and drag it back in my shop to finish weld it.
at what degree in relation should the axle be to the driveshaft?
heres a couple pics of my springs, i know ive got blocks in there but not sure about springs. the lift was done by previous owner.
at what degree in relation should the axle be to the driveshaft?
heres a couple pics of my springs, i know ive got blocks in there but not sure about springs. the lift was done by previous owner.
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