The paper I wrote on the installation that might help some of you with the 3.0 to more easily install the cruise control units. I did this on a 2006. This forum won't allow my upload of the
file for some odd reason. If you want the file, just email jpatb70@msn.com and ask for it.
I'm a retiree who is willing to help out those who need my help. Thanks, J PAT

 

Did u purchase an after market kit?

Maybe you can open your document, select all, then paste into the forum so it will be part of the knowledge base here.

 

CRUISE CONTROL INSTALLATION ON A 2006 FORD RANGER W/AUTO AND 3.0 V6
per J. Pat in Hemphill, Texas 12/12/2011
Need: flashlight, mirror, 5/16 socket, 7/16 socket, wire stripper & sharp knife.
1. Mount kit control unit using black bracket with throttle cable facing forward.
Use the large nut in upper center of firewall.

2. The computer on this truck is in the firewall where all the wires go (upper
left on firewall standing in front of truck). The wires may be accessed by
simply pressing down on the retainer clips holding the plastic cover. The
important wires inside are a grey with black stripe and a yellow with red
stripe. Just mark each of these with a marksalot pen to the right outside
of where the plastic cover is involved. The blue wire from the kit goes to
the yellow/red and the grey wire goes to the grey/black. Use the red
clip connectors supplied in the kit. You don’t have to cut any of the truck’s
wires at any time using this kit. Replace the black cover.
3. The hookup for the throttle is actually simple. Just remove the plastic
cover and the air supply hose where it connects to the intake manifold.
Notice there is a round, grooved **** on the left where the black plastic
throttle clip in your kit fits. Use the included threading nut to thread the
black plastic throttle cable back about 4 ½ inches and screw on the
the threaded black plastic adapter that fits in the square hole in the throttle bracket.
I chose to attach the end of the cable to the throttle using strong wire to wrap
around the throttle cable and then over the throttle **** making a secure
connection directly to the ****. I found this takes all the slack out of the cable
and gives better performance…see my amateur illustration:

4. The brake loom over to the right in front of and below the fuse box
has a release for the white clamp. Put the black wire loom over your wiring
and bring the end across in front of the firewall over to the brake wiring
area. . Pull the brake wiring up to where it is easier to get to.

5. Remove the lower plastic dash panel noting that there are two screws
attaching the hood release which hold it in addition to the one at each
end. Remove the 3 screws holding the black cover under the steering
column. Drill a 3/8” hole about 1 ¼” below the windshield wiper hole.
Install the control handle and thread the wires through under the dash
It helps to tape the small wires together with masking tape to help to
thread them.
6. Remove the 2 upper screws holding the fuse box under the hood.
The box is then held in a slot below it. You can just work it free and
pull it up to reveal the black rubber boot that allows the main wiring
to pass through the firewall. Pull back the rubber boot and thread the
6 wires through that match up to the control. Note: The red wire with
the fuse might need to be lengthened about 12 to 14” to make things
easier later. The brown wire with the metal tab on the end will go
to the fuse box. You will need to cut a chunk out of the rubber grommet
to pass your wires through before replacing the grommet.
That blade tab on the brown wire will go alongside one of the legs of a
15 amp fuse (normally light blue) in the fuse box.
7. You can now hook up the white plastic 4 pin connector to the wires
from the control handle. Note: The red/brown wire goes to the
brown wire and red to red, etc. The two black and grey wires (the
remaining 2 wires) are then connected to the brake wires….red to
red in upper right of connector and the other to tan/red for the
momentary side of the brake connection.

. Connect the black ground wire with the eye on the end to the
bolt on the upper firewall behind the engine where you will see
another ground connection being made.
8. Route everything tying the wires to make them secure and you
are done. NOW FOR AN IMPORTANT LAST THING THAT MUST BE DONE:
THE POSITIONS 1 AND 2 IN THE DIP SWITCHES ON YOUR CONTROL UNIT
MUST BE SET TO “OFF”, THE LOWEST SETTING OF SENSITIVITY OR THE
ENGINE WILL SURGE.
Call the company and make sure dip switches 3 thru 12 are set for the
Ranger. Michael at M&R Electronics where I bought my unit on line
is very good at the dip switches and basic installation info. I bought the
Rostra Ultracruise II and Left mount column switch. It should all cost
about $225.00 delivered to your door. 989-790-2949

 

Please note that all of the illustrations were removed by the system when I tried to "select all" and post my
technical article. J. Pat

 

I purchased a Rostra Ultracruise II from M&R Electronics 989-790-2949 and spoke with Michael who is their
technical guru. He was a great help. Those settings on dip switches 1 and 2 were cr ucial factors in the installation. J. Pat

 

Sounds like very similar to my installation of the global cruise control kit from M&R Electronics on my 2007.

Those guys are so knowledgable about their product. And once it's dialed in just right it's as smooth as the factory unit. I was shocked how smooth it was once I spent some time fine tuning it. Speaking with their techs was a big help. The spacing of the cable connection to the throttle body valve is essential to the millimeter to maximize smoothness. And in case of the 4.0 liter engine the optimized dip switch settings might not actually match what the guide says to use (per their techs instructions).

Awesome company and a great product.

Here is a link to my install.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/general-ford-ranger-discussion-15/added-cruise-control-auto-dim-mirror-headunit-few-other-mods-photos-124104/