I have a couple of issues that I'm dealing with right now, and both involve seriously rusted and stuck bolts.

A little history... This truck was parked in 2007 in Michigan after serving as a DD for 4 years. I did not prepare it for winter before parking it. :( It did sit in a pole-barn for 2.5 years, and I just got it out of storage in September of this year.

The first problem involves the bolts holding my seats in. I've got a pair of Explorer seats that I want to put in, but I can't get two of the old bolts out. I have the same problem with each seat: The two bolts in the front come out. The bolt closest to the hump comes out. The bolt nearest the outside refuses to budge. This is the same on both seats. While trying to remove them I used a ratchet, a breaker bar, WD40 and the previous applications, then tried an impact wrench. At the end I managed to round off the bolt heads and the bolts did not budge -- and my cab smelled like WD40 for several days.

Similar situation with the rear bumper bracket bolts. I've got a new rear bumper and when first attempting to remove the bolts from the bracket, they were caked with rust, big time. I doused them with WD40 several times, but they refuse to budge even after leveraging my entire 210 lb *** against them. I have NOT put a breaker bar or an impact wrench on them after my experience with the seat bolts.

I do have one of those extractor tools with the square head for 5/8 bolts that you drill into the bolt head, but I've never used it, so I'm hesitant to make a problem worse at this point.

Any advise that anyone can give is most appreciated.

 

Oh, yeah, and I was wondering if anyone had tried the CRC Freeze-Off spray to remove bolts. A guy at Advance said he'd heard good stuff about it.

 

WD40 is WORTHLESS on rusted bolts/nuts. My favorite is PB Blaster. Be careful with it around certain plastics and all types of rubber. It will expand rubber o-rings a sh*tload. Don't ask. lol


If you do a Google search, you'll find that mechanics and machinists prefer to use a homebrewed mix of ATF and acetone. There are some test results (can't remember where I saw em) that showed the ATF/acetone mix outperformed everything on the market.




GB :)

 

I came very close to buying some PB Blaster, but since I'd never used it... I didn't buy it.

 

But yeah, if that does help with the bumper bracket bolts, I still got to deal with the stripped seat bolts.

 

PB Blaster is ALL we use here on our farm. Trust me when I say it does a very good job on stubborn, rusty bolts.. We deal with hundreds per year working around here.. When you're re-installing, be sure to use some good silver anti-sieze on the bolts. Unless they require thread locker.

In actual tests, the top performer was the ATF/acetone mix and second place was Liquid Wrench. I've never had any luck with Liquid Wrench though..


GB :)

 

Out of curiosity on the ATF/Acetone mix, how do you apply it?

Also, how about those rounded off seat bolts? Another application of PB Blaster... ATF/Actone.... Use the extractor? I've also entertained having someone tack weld weld something I can grab onto and twist or bang on to break the bolts loose.

 

The ATF mix has to be put into a spray bottle - available at any hardware store. Use caution though, as it can melt through certain types of plastic bottles if left long enough. Blaster might be your best bet. Be sure to soak them for a couple days.

As for the stripped bolt, you're either left to using an extractor or vice grips, or welding a nut onto the head of it. Something may catch fire though.

I've had good luck with this type of extractor but a different brand: Northern Ind. Damaged Fastener/Bolt/Nut Removers 10-Pc - eBay (item 330501145951 end time Dec-03-10 16:40:23 PST)

Here's a decent price on a good set: CRAFTSMAN 6pc BOLT-OUT DAMAGED BOLT NUT REMOVER SET NEW - eBay (item 160449859497 end time Dec-24-10 19:25:16 PST)


EDIT: If you can heat underneath the area (under truck possibly) with a heat gun or similar, that might solve your problem.. You might have to grind the head off the thing..

GB :)

 

I use this method here on our farm ALL THE TIME..

YouTube - Broken Bolt Removal - The best way! From Skidworks




GB :)

 

I got the April/May edition of Machinist's Workshop magazine yesterday.
Another very talented Lloyd did an interesting test of penetrating oils where he measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Get the issue if you want to see how he did the test. But, I thought the results he reported interesting. Maybe you will, too?

Pentrating oil / Average load / Price perfluid ounce
None / 516 pounds /
WD-40 / 238 pounds / $0.25
PB Blaster / 214 pounds / $0.35
Liquid Wrench / 127 pounds / $0.21
Kano Kroil / 106 pounds / $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix / 53 pounds / $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was mixed 1 to 1 ratio.


GB :)

 

I use kankroil or PB. If you can't get anywhere that route, get a torch and heat that bolt up well.

 

i bought some kano kroil and it is amazing but a little pricey

 

Free-all, Has always done the job on things like this. And WD-40 does work, just not for something like this.

 

I've had the best of luck with PB blaster.

 

This is what I think I'm gonna have to do with the seat bolts. Hopefully the carpet doesn't catch on fire!

 

I tried this type of extraction tool, but the heads are so bad that they just spun, believe it or not. The other kind of tool that I have is like this:

 

LOL, I hear ya on this. I just swapped some 06 seats into my 01 and the only bolt that gave me a hell of a time was the rear drivers closest to the door. The 55 Torx socket on my breaker bar got the bolt to turn maybe a 1/2 turn at the most then didn't budge. I soaked the SOB in PB blaster for two days and still nothing. Needless to say, when a bolt is corroded in there, it's corroded in there, especially after 10 years of winter salt. I tried the extractor bit as well and snapped it off in the bolt. I just ended up grinding off the bolt head and removing the seat.

Turns out the area around the nut was rusted and the floor material was in bad shape. I cleaned it up and coated it with rubberized undercoat.

Seems the seat swap threads always leave out the important issues......LOL

Just cut the heads off and install the seats with 3 mounting points, or drill the entire bolt and nut out of the floor and install your own.

 

How safe is running with just three bolts holding the seat in? I'm not worried so much about the driver's seat, but I carry my son to daycare every morning, and he rides in a booster in the passenger seat.

 

I can't say how safe it is to drive around with 75% of the original bolts for the seat. I can tell you that once the seat is out, drilling and re-tapping the hole should not be extremely difficult since you'll have a nice open area to do the work. It sounds easier than the other alternative of welding on the nut and washer.

 

This is seriously tempting. I'm pretty tired of mucking with the seats and just want to get the old ones out and the new ones in. Plus, cutting them off might bring a sense of satisfaction/revenge.

 

Wow same exact problems I've faced. Same exact bolt on my seats, but I was able to get out with an impact wrench. For rear bumper I broke a ratchet trying to get those bolts loose (using a breaker bar). Impact is the way to go on those bolts they are put on at 112 ft/lbs (imagine that plus all the rust). Mine were 18 mm, was you using standard sockets?

 

Sounds like you just need to grind the head of the bolt off and drill out the rest.


GB :)

 

I, uhm, might have been using a 5/8 on the seat bolts. I don't have any metric sockets or wrenches, but I guess it's time to invest in some.

 

I'm gonna do just that this weekend.

 

Silly question... Would a Dremel cut-off wheel take off these bolt heads? I don't have a grinder, but if I need to buy one, I will.