Time for new plugs
#27
Well I changed the plugs on my 4.0 liter 1998 Ranger. The old ones can out but they were really stuck in there. I never experienced such a tough withdrawal. They were so difficult to back out I thought they must have been cross threaded when they went in. Well I backed them out slowly and they all came out - from the top of the engine - I didn't have to go in through the wheel wells which I looked at but access would have been worse than from the top so I don;t know why anyone would try this access method. I only broke one plugs' ceramic insulator which was no big deal. This was on the drivers side #2 plug. It broke because of the spark plug socket being off center due to some sort of pipe above the exhaust manifold. I took extra care to be centered when I put the new ones in.
I put on a bit on never seize on the new plug threads and they went in nice and easy so I was glad I put some on. It will make removal much easier. I used the copper based stuff as it is supposed to be a higher heat type.
It ran a bit better but there still is a bit of pinging under heavy load - up a hill with no downshifting. Old plugs were in decent condition but it was time for a change (IMO).
I put on a bit on never seize on the new plug threads and they went in nice and easy so I was glad I put some on. It will make removal much easier. I used the copper based stuff as it is supposed to be a higher heat type.
It ran a bit better but there still is a bit of pinging under heavy load - up a hill with no downshifting. Old plugs were in decent condition but it was time for a change (IMO).
#28
Well I changed the plugs on my 4.0 liter 1998 Ranger. The old ones can out but they were really stuck in there. I never experienced such a tough withdrawal. They were so difficult to back out I thought they must have been cross threaded when they went in. Well I backed them out slowly and they all came out - from the top of the engine - I didn't have to go in through the wheel wells which I looked at but access would have been worse than from the top so I don;t know why anyone would try this access method. I only broke one plugs' ceramic insulator which was no big deal. This was on the drivers side #2 plug. It broke because of the spark plug socket being off center due to some sort of pipe above the exhaust manifold. I took extra care to be centered when I put the new ones in.
I put on a bit on never seize on the new plug threads and they went in nice and easy so I was glad I put some on. It will make removal much easier. I used the copper based stuff as it is supposed to be a higher heat type.
It ran a bit better but there still is a bit of pinging under heavy load - up a hill with no downshifting. Old plugs were in decent condition but it was time for a change (IMO).
I put on a bit on never seize on the new plug threads and they went in nice and easy so I was glad I put some on. It will make removal much easier. I used the copper based stuff as it is supposed to be a higher heat type.
It ran a bit better but there still is a bit of pinging under heavy load - up a hill with no downshifting. Old plugs were in decent condition but it was time for a change (IMO).
well you have a 98 which is a different motor than the OP's 03 and going in from the wheel well on the passenger side is much easier than from the top.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Fx4wannabe01
General Technical & Electrical
9
05-22-2007 10:55 AM