Tow straps (Please read) - Page 4 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #76  
Old 04-06-2009
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQYeTWYFX5w

Good reason to not use hooks. If they would of had a hook it could have been bad

WTF man
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  #77  
Old 05-20-2009
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I have read this thread and found interesting and I am interested in safety. Can any recommend a good basic setup to carry in the truck in case of getting stuck in the winter time? I would like to buy online preferably.
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  #78  
Old 05-21-2009
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wheres a good site to buy both the straps and d rings for you hitch

wheres a good site to buy these
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  #79  
Old 05-21-2009
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Best place to buy stuff for recovery is Tractor Supply Company. They've got everything you'll ever need.
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  #80  
Old 05-21-2009
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Originally Posted by bronco2454 View Post
I have read this thread and found interesting and I am interested in safety. Can any recommend a good basic setup to carry in the truck in case of getting stuck in the winter time? I would like to buy online preferably.
Shovel, couple bags of sand, 2 tow straps (Backup just in case), preferably a rear AND front hitch woudl be best - get yourself a standard set of long heavy duty jump cables as well, I carry some 18ft long heavy duty ones myself at all times; good tires are a benefit... perhaps a shipping blanket//cargo blanket or two in the back, extra tarp, some candles and emergency stuff - anything you coudl think of if you somehow get stuck in a remote location and need to get yourself out, a buddy out, or camp the night till someone can get to you in teh morning.
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  #81  
Old 05-21-2009
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I keep a 30 ft Chain in my truck when I know i'll be out of the city. Just in case. It can pull ALOT! and its long enough you can hook it up to alot.

I also keep a 10Ft emergency tow strap under my seat at all times, it has hooks but they hook up to tow hooks and hitches nicely and i've never had a problem.
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  #82  
Old 05-21-2009
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Don't ****** on trailer *****, it will turn out bad. I was really stuck. We broke a reese hitch, pulled the ball out of a pintle hitch(idiot had the wrong ball with too small of a shaft), and broke a whole receiver, pintle hitch and all, off of a Jeep.


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  #83  
Old 05-21-2009
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^ WOW! that must've hit hard
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  #84  
Old 05-26-2009
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i went to tractor suppley, and the cheapest d ring reciever was $35!!! is there a site with cheaper ones but good quality...
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  #85  
Old 05-26-2009
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Originally Posted by dixie_boysles View Post
i went to tractor suppley, and the cheapest d ring reciever was $35!!! is there a site with cheaper ones but good quality...
farm and fleet. you can get em any size and there not expensive. or you can try 4wheel parts they have some for like 12$ made by smitybuilt.
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  #86  
Old 09-17-2009
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for those of you in canada, Princess Auto (the unique world of) has tree saver straps on for 10$ I am not 100% sure if it is country wide (i would think so) but that's what i paid in calgary
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  #87  
Old 09-18-2009
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Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
both are strong but the front only pull from BOTH hooks never just 1. you will destroy your front cross member and risk tweaking the frame. the rear is good but 100% recommend getting a hitch..
best i can figure this to work is to run one end of the tree saver through each hook on the front (my hooks are closed loops) and then take the loops on the tree saver and pull them from another vehicle, but this would put pressure inwards on the hooks... that's not right is it? i could see that doing a LOT more damage than pulling from one only
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  #88  
Old 09-18-2009
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Originally Posted by --weezl-- View Post
best i can figure this to work is to run one end of the tree saver through each hook on the front (my hooks are closed loops) and then take the loops on the tree saver and pull them from another vehicle, but this would put pressure inwards on the hooks... that's not right is it? i could see that doing a LOT more damage than pulling from one only
its distributing the pull. not sure with closed hooks dont deal with them ever.

we have pulled this way using both and havent damaged the front cross member. where as every pull from just one its very quick to tweak it.. from real life stucks
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  #89  
Old 09-18-2009
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Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
where as every pull from just one its very quick to tweak it.. from real life stucks
I can attest to that, I had to cut my front crossmember out because I tweaked it so bad. The frame was a little sprung, but not too bad.
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  #90  
Old 09-18-2009
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Originally Posted by malydeen View Post
Also like I said before when a strap breaks it is going to go in the direction of the force on it. Meaning it is going to snap straight back.
Which is a great concept when you are pulling perfectly straight. Those of us that have who have been in situations when pulling at a perfectly straight angle on flat ground is not an option will notice that it doesn't always snap straight back. I have had ***** from hitches hit my toolbox. I have ripped entire receivers, with the exception of one of the mounting brackets, off of a Jeep. The receiver, pintle hitch and all, flung in a half circle motion AROUND my truck hitting my friend in the leg and landing in front of the truck. If your theory is true then it would have landed directly behind or under my truck.

In a perfect world your theory may work, but there are too many variables to assume that a strap will always snap straight backwards.

Oh I also have two nice dents in the top of the roof of my truck from a D-ring. If it is high enough to hit my roof it could very well go through a window/windshield.
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  #91  
Old 09-18-2009
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When the STRAP breaks it will travel in a straight path in the opposite direction of the force. If a piece of the truck breaks it can cause a force that is in a direction other then straight back.
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  #92  
Old 09-18-2009
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Originally Posted by malydeen View Post
When the STRAP breaks it will travel in a straight path in the opposite direction of the force. If a piece of the truck breaks it can cause a force that is in a direction other then straight back.
lol you need more college son. there's a lot more to it than that. In almost all situations a snap will shoot straight back but it isnt a physics law.
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  #93  
Old 09-19-2009
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you guys are arguing about pointless things, malydeen, if you support hooks, go use them, just don't use them around me... everyone else, if you like the looped ones, go use them. You have posted your information, and everyone else have to choose to either take it or not
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  #94  
Old 09-20-2009
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Originally Posted by --weezl-- View Post
you guys are arguing about pointless things, malydeen, if you support hooks, go use them, just don't use them around me... everyone else, if you like the looped ones, go use them. You have posted your information, and everyone else have to choose to either take it or not
I am not arguing at all. he loves to start fights why idk we are just trying to keep people safe yet he doesnt get that..
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  #95  
Old 09-20-2009
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i realize your not trying to start anything, i'm just saying that those who ARE arguing about it, there is no point, he's obviously so bull headed that nothing is going to get through to him, so f*** him, let him catch a clevis in the teeth


BACK ON TOPIC THOUGH!!!!!

I was looking at recovery straps at my local messed up farm store (princess auto) and they have the maximum load weight (like breaking strength) on the label, as well as maximum vehicle weight (which is about half the max load weight) so my question now is, what is the weight of a well equipped ranger? i'm not so much meaning the ones like fx4wannabe's because he's got new axles and new suspension which i'm sure has made him a lot heavier than stock...., but like a ranger with a good bush bar/winch bumper, skid plates, lights, winch... ect.
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  #96  
Old 09-20-2009
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30x30,000 strap should be good for your application
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  #97  
Old 09-20-2009
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Originally Posted by --weezl-- View Post
i realize your not trying to start anything, i'm just saying that those who ARE arguing about it, there is no point, he's obviously so bull headed that nothing is going to get through to him, so f*** him, let him catch a clevis in the teeth


BACK ON TOPIC THOUGH!!!!!

I was looking at recovery straps at my local messed up farm store (princess auto) and they have the maximum load weight (like breaking strength) on the label, as well as maximum vehicle weight (which is about half the max load weight) so my question now is, what is the weight of a well equipped ranger? i'm not so much meaning the ones like fx4wannabe's because he's got new axles and new suspension which i'm sure has made him a lot heavier than stock...., but like a ranger with a good bush bar/winch bumper, skid plates, lights, winch... ect.
Look for a RECOVERY strap, not a tow strap. There is a big difference. A recovery strap is designed to stretch. This helps absorb impact when snatching out a truck. Also it helps "spring" the truck out. A TOW strap as meant to tow something. Because of this, it stretches very little.
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  #98  
Old 09-20-2009
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Another good place to pick up straps is Crane and Rigging companies or docks where they do tug work. Those guys toss out stuff when it get's the slightest wear or damage and usually are rated for well more than what we need them for. I picked up a 100 foot of 3" stretch line a few years ago for free from the port.....just had a slight cut about 30' mark just cut it there and braided loops in the ends and ended up with 2 awesome ****** ropes. Used them for years before someone lifted them out of the bed of my truck. :(

Right now I have 30' of crane rigging strap 4" 40k again free, had a local boot repair shop sew the loops in the ends and been using that one for a few years as well with no issues.

As far as breakage goes just throw a wet towel over whatever your using to pull with and if it does break it will go to the ground regardless of what it is or what's on the end. I was pulling trees last year and had a rope slip off one with the clevice attached it went about 5 feet before hitting the ground because of the towel.

Last edited by Hollywood416; 09-20-2009 at 08:52 PM.
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  #99  
Old 09-20-2009
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Originally Posted by Hollywood416 View Post
Another good place to pick up straps is Crane and Rigging companies or docks where they do tug work. Those guys toss out stuff when it get's the slightest wear or damage and usually are rated for well more than what we need them for. I picked up a 100 foot of 3" stretch line a few years ago for free from the port.....just had a slight cut about 30' mark just cut it there and braided loops in the ends and ended up with 2 awesome ****** ropes. Used them for years before someone lifted them out of the bed of my truck. :(
Yeah at the slightest sign on wear and tear or somethign that ciould weaken a strap throw it. If you wouldnt use it as a climbing rope dont use it to ******.
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  #100  
Old 09-20-2009
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seriously, this is not what this thread was intended for

Chainfire, that's what I was looking at, recovery straps, 20 000lb breaking strength (max vehicle weight of 9,000lbs) marked on the strap, should be good enough for me right?

i've got a 4"x4' tree saver so far, it was 10$, couldn't resist

i tried to use one of those nylon tow straps, when i was having trouble getting up a muddy hill in my 4x2 a while back, got just enough pull on the rope to feel it was doing SOMETHING (wouldn't have been enough) and snap, right in the middle of the rope...
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