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  #4551  
Old 04-29-2014
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I am: chris russell
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Location: randolph vt
Vehicle: 2010 ford sport
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Finshed lift, rims and tires!

3 inch pa lift, 33s, dc-2s and 1.5 inch tbar crank
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  #4552  
Old 04-30-2014
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I am: Sean Robinson
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Did the Mustang dome light mod... came out cool, but it turns out my 07 mounting area is not quite as "plug and play" as the DIY I read..... still, end result is pretty sweet!
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  #4553  
Old 04-30-2014
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I am: JD M
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threw a tarp over the roof since my rear window seal has apparently **** out and is leaking terribly
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  #4554  
Old 05-01-2014
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Fuel Filter, Full Tank of Gas and STP Fuel System Cleaner.

I went all out today Boys!
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  #4555  
Old 05-01-2014
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I am: Rob B
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Plainfield, CT
Vehicle: 2004 Ford Ranger XL
Drive Type: 4x2
Engine: 2.3
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Painted Bumper and Grille with Rustoleum spray bedliner and painted Charcoal (same as my interior) and my HID Projector headlights (still getting flickering, no clue why). It's actually getting me very mad at this point, lol.



Fixed truck bed rot and wheel well rot. Painted wheel well and rockers the same as the bumper, awaiting trim pieces to make it a crisp transition (I'm leaning towards chrome...)





Rehabbed interior with Blue LED's. Still have to do steering wheel and extend and/or bend shifter so I can sit more comfortably.




Plenty more to do just not enough nice days off to do so!
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  #4556  
Old 05-02-2014
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For the flickering, many problems may cause this. Ie.: Unconstant vehicule voltage,vehicule resistance too high, loose connection.
If not yet done, you'll want to go with a relay setup. Ive added 2 diagrams for 1 or 2 relay setup, along with a description of relay pins.


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  #4557  
Old 05-02-2014
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I am: orson
Join Date: May 2014
Location: decatur,IL
Vehicle: 1994 ford ranger
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Engine: 2.3
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I replaced the radiator with a junk yard one, replaced the fuel filter. Trying to talk myself into installing the 4" lift laying on the floor in my garage. If the grounds not to wet I may give it a go. All the bushings I have to put on are kinda holding me back...
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  #4558  
Old 05-02-2014
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I am: Rob B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianyboy View Post
For the flickering, many problems may cause this. Ie.: Unconstant vehicule voltage,vehicule resistance too high, loose connection.
If not yet done, you'll want to go with a relay setup. Ive added 2 diagrams for 1 or 2 relay setup, along with a description of relay pins.


I used the "Motocontrol" ready made harness with a relay in it from TheRetrofitSource.com, that sort of wiring is beyond me. Thanks for the information though! It's always good to learn something new. I will add this to my archives of stuff. I opted to go for ready made system because I just don't like electrical.

I originally had one harness for both headlights as it was designed for that. After I lost my lights after two nights and kept popping fuses (long story). I realized it was a bad ballast so i replaced it and got another harness, one for each side. I had it going for a day then one kept flickering and died, replaced that yet again. Now I put them back on one harness and I get a slight flicker from one or both...haven't ran the truck much because I'm doing body work. Really don't want this to fail again.

My thought was to separate them that way each control box is supporting one ballast, thus half the load. Talked to TRS they said to put them on just one, see where that gets me. It does have a 20amp fuse in it, could upgrading it to 30amp get rid of the flickering at startup? Both the negative grounds are bolted to the front Kframe, I made sure to wire brush off paint before doing it. Connections are tight...just don't get it.
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  #4559  
Old 05-02-2014
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I am: JD M
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Blacked out my wheels again
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  #4560  
Old 05-03-2014
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I am: orson
Join Date: May 2014
Location: decatur,IL
Vehicle: 1994 ford ranger
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Sprayed all the nuts and bolts with pb blaster to get ready to put lift kit on. Flushed out power steering fluid. Broke over head light that is in back of cab. Guess I will have to find a f150 or a mustang light to replace it. cleaned out inside of truck.
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  #4561  
Old 05-04-2014
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I am: Zach Heindselman
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I drove it to work. Longest trip its had since the new clutch and transmission.
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  #4562  
Old 05-04-2014
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I am: Zach Heindselman
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I drove it to work. Longest trip its had since the new clutch and transmission.
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  #4563  
Old 05-04-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveDie View Post
I used the "Motocontrol" ready made harness with a relay in it from TheRetrofitSource.com, that sort of wiring is beyond me. Thanks for the information though! It's always good to learn something new. I will add this to my archives of stuff. I opted to go for ready made system because I just don't like electrical.

I originally had one harness for both headlights as it was designed for that. After I lost my lights after two nights and kept popping fuses (long story). I realized it was a bad ballast so i replaced it and got another harness, one for each side. I had it going for a day then one kept flickering and died, replaced that yet again. Now I put them back on one harness and I get a slight flicker from one or both...haven't ran the truck much because I'm doing body work. Really don't want this to fail again.

My thought was to separate them that way each control box is supporting one ballast, thus half the load. Talked to TRS they said to put them on just one, see where that gets me. It does have a 20amp fuse in it, could upgrading it to 30amp get rid of the flickering at startup? Both the negative grounds are bolted to the front Kframe, I made sure to wire brush off paint before doing it. Connections are tight...just don't get it.
are you driving the truck with the headlight switch in the OFF position

park on level surface - start engine - release parking brake - let the lights flicker - a capacitor inside the control box needs to be charged ( for the DRL function to work properly )

my ballasts work from the DRL function because of a boo boo i made, i was testing a led light bar and i forgot to remove the positive lead from the battery , drove my vehicle for several days , lost interior heat - popped the hood - topped up coolant - and looked over then saw the positve wire lead contacting the moto control outer casing
( i guess the outer casing needs to be positively charged for the DRL function to work )

you might try this to see if the lights fully operate with the outer casing positively charged

but you might also FRY the control box as well ( up to you ) not a big wire just a small wire
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  #4564  
Old 05-04-2014
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I am: Mitch
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Louisville, KY
Vehicle: 2005 Ford Ranger FX4
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Put in a K&N air filter, and did the "airbox mod" on my '05 Ranger. Definitely made it sound better. Not expecting any MPG or HP gain though.
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  #4565  
Old 05-05-2014
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I am: Rob B
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Plainfield, CT
Vehicle: 2004 Ford Ranger XL
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Engine: 2.3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheese_man View Post
are you driving the truck with the headlight switch in the OFF position

park on level surface - start engine - release parking brake - let the lights flicker - a capacitor inside the control box needs to be charged ( for the DRL function to work properly )

my ballasts work from the DRL function because of a boo boo i made, i was testing a led light bar and i forgot to remove the positive lead from the battery , drove my vehicle for several days , lost interior heat - popped the hood - topped up coolant - and looked over then saw the positve wire lead contacting the moto control outer casing
( i guess the outer casing needs to be positively charged for the DRL function to work )

you might try this to see if the lights fully operate with the outer casing positively charged

but you might also FRY the control box as well ( up to you ) not a big wire just a small wire
Haven't driven it since my last blown ballast. I had the truck in the garage apart while I waited. Installed it with a harness per side. Passenger side fired right up, no flickering, just the dim start to brighter. the driver side would lag, would take a second longer to ignite and get a flicker as well. When I turned them off the passenger side would go off instantly and the driver would lag once again. I'm almost done with the mods and will be driving it in a few weeks to see if i get a failure.

When I tested the lights when I installed them I turned the truck on for a few minutes before turning the lights on, gave the above symptoms. I don't drive with headlights on during the day. Everything works as should. Headlights fire up when I switch to headlight on the ****, high/low function. Just still have a flickering issue that's pissing me off. Maybe the Control box isn't grounded well? Not sure why it would need to be since there are two grounds already.
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  #4566  
Old 05-05-2014
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who manufactured the ballasts, cheap chinese ballasts will do what you stated

good quality ballasts usually fire right up, drive side ballast lag would probably be a control box issue

try each ballast at a time , passenger then driver driver, to see if the issue is in fact control box related

if the driver side alone still flickers , the it would be a ballast issue

post a picture as to where you mounted the moto control box please
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  #4567  
Old 05-06-2014
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I am: Rob B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheese_man View Post
who manufactured the ballasts, cheap chinese ballasts will do what you stated

good quality ballasts usually fire right up, drive side ballast lag would probably be a control box issue

try each ballast at a time , passenger then driver driver, to see if the issue is in fact control box related

if the driver side alone still flickers , the it would be a ballast issue

post a picture as to where you mounted the moto control box please
They are Morimoto brand from TRS, both have already been replaced due to complete failure one after another. Tried each one separately and they both seemed to start dim (I know that's normal) and give a split second flicker before coming to full brightness (not sure if they should give that slight flicker). If I turn them off for a few minutes and turn back on they fire right up, I'm guessing because its still warm. Because they are both on one harness (yet again) they turn on/off simultaneously and not with a delay. It may just be me at this point thinking the worst, I won't know for sure until I start driving it daily hopefully in a couple weeks.

Here is a photo of where I mounted the control box and driver side ballast. Battery to the left, both mounted on the front Kmember behind the headlight.

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  #4568  
Old 05-06-2014
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starting dim then intensifying is normal
( firing up bright would burn out the bulbs very quickly )

even if the driver side ballast flickers for a second then fires up , i would not worry about it

my ballasts do that sometimes

there is a coil inside the ballast that needs to be charged 1st before it can convert the voltage to AC
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  #4569  
Old 05-07-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheese_man View Post
starting dim then intensifying is normal
( firing up bright would burn out the bulbs very quickly )

even if the driver side ballast flickers for a second then fires up , i would not worry about it

my ballasts do that sometimes

there is a coil inside the ballast that needs to be charged 1st before it can convert the voltage to AC
The dim start didn't worry me, but the flickering did. They flickered a lot more before they failed so it just worries me now. I'll see once I use it. I'll leave the other harness in place in case I do get a failure I can just switch it over.
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  #4570  
Old 05-13-2014
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I am: JIMMY BECK
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Today's work schedule on my 2000 Ranger XLT included, a oil change, air filter box vacuumed out of all its debris with a new air filter installed, flushed radiator and replaced with new anti-freeze and distilled water to top it off and i bought $10.00 worth of gas lol. Then I went a purchased another 2000 Ranger XLT stepside for $350 with same motor as mine. It has a cracked head and looks like hell but I'll fix the head issue and it can be another working Ranger.
Im pushing 255,000 miles and my truck is running great!
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  #4571  
Old 05-18-2014
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i had my b4000 thoroughly krown rust control sprayed and a full underbody spray as well

that includes inside and outside of the frame rails

now to have my HD leaf springs installed some time during the week

the energy suspension polyurethane bushings just slipped right in
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  #4572  
Old 05-18-2014
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anyone wanting to have their trucks sprayed by krown

Krown Rust Control| Rustproofing & Protection for Cars, Trucks, Vans

type in your zip code and locate the nearest krown affilate dealer in the u.s
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  #4573  
Old 05-30-2014
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Smoked my front corner light, and the red on the tail lights, using plasti-dip
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  #4574  
Old 05-30-2014
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Fired it up to take trash to the dump.

Then ran out of gas on the way home. Lol. I though I could make it to the gas station.

I was wrong.
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  #4575  
Old 05-30-2014
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just finished replacing the front shocks with monroe reflex shocks

what a pain , i had to crank up the torsion bars just to get the new shocks to fit in their slots

thank god i do not do this every day

( just a suggestion to everyone , buy some extra stud nuts to cover the threads , this will aid in removing the old shocks without issue )
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