Well after hydro locking my engine I decided to swap in a SOHC 4.0L (Ben's/Ranger1's engine). I'm picking it up on Thursday. I'm getting his entire engine assembly, harness, ECM, entire dash, steering wheel and nerfbars. And I figure while I'm at it I'm buying a 6" Superlift suspension system, stabilizer and SS brake lines.

I plan on documenting this as I go with digi cam pictures and I'll use this thread.

One this I need still is a early style 1 piece drive shaft so if any of you have a lead on one that would be great.

 

junk yard you can get the driveshaft for like $75

 

Thanks stone,

Hey any of you guys know the best way to get the engine out of my truck. I have a hoist and engine stand. I plan on taking off the fenders and rad. support (if I can), grill head ect. so it's easy to work on and I can paint stuff up and fix things.

Any suggestions/tricks you guys would like to share.

 

keep the rad support in, drop the trans and pull the motor. I cant wait to see the progress pics!

 

wow
that's a solid motor, I bet you're happy!!!

 

I'm real exited, can't wait to start it.

 

Rock on, must be niceeee!

SOHC > OHV

Brenton

 

just take off the hood.. no reason to take off the rest of the stuff.. if you have a friend or someone with a lift (car lift not engine hoist) take advantage, it stucks taking a tranny out on the ground!

if you have to do it on the ground..a simple trick is to remove the trans crossmember out (with the engine hoist hooked to the engine) the driveshaft and exhuast and the the trans tip down much more room to work if its close. lol jsut rember to put a jack under it before you get the last bolt out otherwise you will wear the trans... and i dont mean "wear out the trans" i mean you will wear it literally...


JOSH

 

I have a driveshaft out of my 2.5L 2000 2wd you can have. I'll take measurements if you need, also.

 

Cool measure it and I'll see if it will fit.

 

Thanks for the tips, I'm taking the fenders off regardless because they need body work done. I'm going to do it at work. It will make it easier to work on too. I have a cracked header too so that will come off to get fixed and I want to paint the grill the same color as the truck so that will come off as well.

So you're saying the bolts on the trans are easier to get to while the cross member is down? I have no way to use a lift, unfortunately a hoist is as good as it gets and I'll be working it a gravel drive too. But I'll be putting wood to work on.

 

taking the fenders off really wouldn't help the motor swap much anyway b/c i'm pretty sure the inner fenders are factory welded to the cab

 

The inner fenders and core support are welded together.

Remove the hood with the 4 - 8mm bolts that hold it to the hinges. Make sure you don't have a ground strap still connected (mine didn't) before you pull it off. Have someone help you, and place towels under the rear corner of the hood to prevent it from slipping down and scratching your cowl or fenders.

I would recommend removing the outer fenders, to prevent scratches and damage. It was a pain to keep towels on mine and have to worry about dropping a wrench on it or something.

Also, I recommend removing the front bumper and grill, since they're both very easy to remove and will be the most prone to damage during the motor pull.

• Start by chocking a wheel on both sides, setting the Parking Brake, and popping the hood.
• Now you need to remove the motor mount nuts to allow the engine to tip backwards. This may require you to pull some other parts which I won't mention due to your motor being different than mine. You will likely have to use a cheater bar or impact wrench to get them off.
• After you remove the 4 19mm nuts from the motor mounts, support the transmission with a jack.
• MAKE SURE you evenly distribute the jack's lift point with a block or something.
• After you have made the jack support the tranny, remove the two 15mm bolts that hold the tranny output shaft to the crossmember.
• Remove the 3 13mm bolts from each side of the tranny crossmember that hold it onto the frame.
• With the tranny supported solely by the jack, you can lower the jack and tip the motor/transmission down.

Here's a pic to help you out:
The mount plates, with the 4 19mm nuts are visible in this image. You'll need to loosen/remove these before you can drop the transmission.

 

great info thanks!

 

Yeah...it's your turn for pictures now! I wanna see the layout of that 4.0 engine compartment.

Would you please sell me your engine isolators? I need them for the 5.0 swap!

The driveshaft I have is 59 inches total overall length. It is 52" from u-joint to u-joint.

 

Excuse me for my ignorance but I don't know what an isolator is. If I don't need it you can have it. I just read that if your drive shaft is from a super cab 4x4 it will work.

 

Well I picked up the engine and parts today and I'm real happy with everything I got from Ben (Ranger1). He is a super nice guy to deal with and gave me way more than I expected! I'm going to get everything cleaned up and in one spot and start some pictures soon.

 

Sounds great Eric
For sure Ben is one solid upstanding dude!!!

 

OK, ran into my first problem/concern. My truck came originally with a 2 core radiator and the radiator I picked up off Ben seems to be a one core. Will I be OK with this? Did all SOHC 4.0L engines come with single core?

 

you should be fine

 

OK guys I got a lot done today (3-24-07),
tomorow I should be ready to pull it out and start swaping all the interior, HVAC and electronics. Here are some pictures of what I did today.

Dead OHV

Gutted Interior

Donor Engine



Ready to yank!

 

I forgot to mention that today I ordered a 6" Superlift kit, SS braided brake lines, and stearing damper! I'm so stoked about it.

 

Awesome! Can't wait to see more!

 

Did you get the A/C disconnected? It looks like it's still connected!

 

I didnt have the special diconects, my friend is coming tomorow with the tools I need for the AC and fuel lines and we are going to use his crane to pull it out.