Well, it stands to reason that a open filter would suck in more engine room heat and there-for the engine would make less power. Countless times I've measured IAT temps on differing cars and I've done this on the ranger now several times. (search out some of my other posts) Also, every single time I do this I see the temps cool off to near ambient once rolling 25-30mph. So.. is a shield really worth it? I mean once your rolling and the temps are the same whats the benifiet of a shield?

Well I decided to make a totally inclosed shield for my K&N conical kit after seeing the temp swings this summer while datalogging in traffic. But before I did I wanted to **prove that it would actually make a power difference**. And to be honest my butt-dyno was telling me the open filter was making more power on the top end.

Here is what I did:
1) Made a foam board/duct tape enclosure that sealed everything around the conical filer except The headlight opening. Drove it for a day to work like this. (I like how quiet it is btw)
2) Let the truck fully warm then drove 2 miles to a dead flat road.
3) Made a 3rd gear power pull from 1500-5700rpms
4) Drove 1/4 mile and in 20seconds cut it all off.
5) Drove back to the same flat area and did another power pull.

This is a honest back to back power pull/acceleration and the data points are identically lined with each other too.

I was a little supprised by the top end power! I would have guessed the low end was higher because of the slightly warmer IAT temps. But the top end???!! Hum... I love science.




btw, Don't take these power numbers and compair them to "claimed power by ford". It's a "calculated net TQ" as the convertor/pcm is seeing. Not sure what it would do on a dyno.. but for this test it is a consistant way of measuring power changes. Especially since these two pulls were within 2 minutes of each other.

 

wow, different results then what i would have expected.

 

Can you guys see the pic? Man that's aggrivating.. for some reason the last month my comcast linked files don't seem to work.


Anyway, I did'nt show the temps.. but the ambient was 54. IAT on run 1 was 54-55. I let it sit in the driveway for 20 minutes with the e-fan kicking on/off three times. Even then the IAT only rose to 107F. Very quickly cools off once I started moving about 15mph and stayed cool till I cut off the shielding. (On run 2 it starts off in the 80F area and dips into the 56 area)

The bottom end power gain is where it's at and would make a shield worth the effort. IMO. I gained between 10-12 ft lbs of torque just from keeping the filter cool. (heat soaking has an effect too. Not just immeadiate inlet temps) I think the MUCH LOUDER intake noise w/o a shield just gives the impression of making more power up top? This is why taking actual measurements is so important IMO. Our opinions often times don't match the facts/science.

Here is what I've decided to do over the Thanksgiving weekend. I'm going to make a large airbox out of clear acrilic sheeting. Then just to make sure the filter is getting fed it's best. I'm going to pipe in an additional 2" cold air duct that feeds from under the radiator (behind the bupmer). I'll need to keep it out of the main air stream for DD because of debris infiltration (salt / slush in Mich). Maybe have a bracket than I can mount a scoop/duct to for track and towing duties.

(if you can't see the image here is the address: http://home.comcast.net/~rbickford32...ld_12nov07.JPG )

Rich

 

can't see the picture Rich......

 

I can see the picture fine.

 

i cant see it either

 

I can see it fine

 

so is this with an aftermarket K&N drop in? or a fully new CAI?

 

I see it fine...

 

I can see it fine.
Cold air is definitely important. Thanks for doing the homework. I'll keep it in mind when I'm installin my K&N.

 

There is a link to the pic at the bottom of my previous post.

I have the whole K&N intake kit. Conical filter, plastic tube feeding the TB, and metal shield. FIPK I think it's called?

I would expect the same differences between any type of setup. Open vs closed no matter the brand would show a similar delta T.

Rich

 

Is the shield from K&N sufficient or does it need to be sealed off from the engine better?

 

The shield is decent.. but it does not seal at all. And IMO the majority of the heat is coming over the top of it. Even though it has a rubber seal on top.. it does'nt touch the hood.

Also, the gap between it and the plastic tube needs to be sealed. And here we have to be careful. Motor rock needs to be protected for. Not too big of a deal.. just needs to be accounted for.

Rich

 

Bummer. But that's ok if you like to fabricate(improve) stuff.

Some rubber foam tubing sounds like it might work good. Better than caulk.........

 

I not only like to do this stuff as a hobby. I get paid to make things more efficient!

 

Nice. Someones gotta do it, especially with some of the stuff people come up with.

 

Next time your near an Accountant or Marketting weenie.. give them a poke in the eye.

 

Can you take a pic of the setup you had/ with the new sheild? Seeing the results from the excel diagram really makes me want to take a look at this.

 

I ripped/cut it off. But basicly I maxed out the available room around the filter with hard foam board. I then duct taped off the openings to make sure I was pulling only air from the headlight hole. (all the original airfilter stuff removed) I just made it as big as I possibly could.

I had a verticle wall that went from the corner of the coolant res straight fwd to the rad cowl.
The top basicly mimicked the hood line and touched the bottom of the hood.
The bottom was at the same level as the metal inner fender.
The rear was touching the coolant res.

Rich

 

So your saying that you just built a wall around your filter so no air from the engine bay would be used.

It seems pretty easy and striat forward. Could you tell a big differnece in power, etc...

 

Yep.. just a simple make-shift box that sealed off all air except from behind the headlight and inner fender. (inner fender only has a small hole in it so IMO does'nt really count)

No, I could not feel the difference in power. I *thought* I felt it pulling better up over 4500 rpms. But the power output measured differently than my *perception*.

Just in case there ever is a little top end starvation.. (my shift points are higher than stock @ 5800rpms for the 1-2) I'll plumb in a 2" hose that feeds air from the lower grill opening. (near the tow hooks is a higher pressure area)

Rich

 

So would you say its worth the trouble of making a enclousre for it?

 

It all relative. My FX4 will be in the 14s next year so to me every time I can increase efficiency for under $10 it's worthwhile.

IMO something that is a definate plus.. is the noise cancellation. I don't mind a heavy throttle growl. But this 4.0L has a hiss noise. And it's loudest when you start the motor cold. IMO that's annoying. With the shroud I hacked together it was barely noticable.

Rich

 

I just want better MPG, i'm testing that this week, looks like I'll be filling up Friday

I do 40Mi T&Thurs and about 20mi M&W... I cant even get to 20...

if you have ANY tips I'm all ears

 

Good to know, I think I need to start designing a enclosure. I know on my Bonneville, I used plexi glass...