1st Gen Brake seizing PLEASE HELP!!
#1
1st Gen Brake seizing PLEASE HELP!!
If you don't want to read, skip to the last line and it will summarize......
So I went to change my brake pads on my 1986 4banger Ranger because I figured they hadnt been done in a while so I pull the wheel and the rotor on the driver's side looks like hell, it's got 2 huge rings around it where the brake pads were so worn down the rivets ate through it. So I go to the local advance auto and pick up new pads and 2 new rotors for the front. I get through with the driver side and it goes off without a problem, on comes the passenger. I pull the wheel and much to my surprise the rotor looks good and the pads still have some life in them but I change them anyways since I had the parts and brakes come in pairs. I get done buttoning everything back up and go out for a little test drive a couple miles down the road and after a few minutes my brake pedal is pretty tight and I smell something burning and head back to the house. When I get there my passenger side brake is extremely hot and lightly smoking. I then yank the wheel back off and play with the caliper pins and the brake frees so I can turn the rotor by hand. Then I go hit the brake and sure enough it seizes again. I play with the pins positioning and caliper positioning for about an hour until I finally get it to sit in a place that allows me to hit the brake without it getting locked into the rotor. Then after about 200 miles of normal driving I was out again today and felt that brake grab and stick once again....
So what I was wondering is what could I do to stop this??? Do I need new caliper pins, new caliper? What?? Any help will be appreciated and I need help ASAP.
For those of you who didn't read the story above, my passenger front brake is grabbing and seizing and I need to know what I can do to fix this problem, it seems to be an alignment issue with the caliper pins and caliper but I'm not sure. I need help because it's bad for the brakes and it's giving my clutch hell in this stop and go traffic
So I went to change my brake pads on my 1986 4banger Ranger because I figured they hadnt been done in a while so I pull the wheel and the rotor on the driver's side looks like hell, it's got 2 huge rings around it where the brake pads were so worn down the rivets ate through it. So I go to the local advance auto and pick up new pads and 2 new rotors for the front. I get through with the driver side and it goes off without a problem, on comes the passenger. I pull the wheel and much to my surprise the rotor looks good and the pads still have some life in them but I change them anyways since I had the parts and brakes come in pairs. I get done buttoning everything back up and go out for a little test drive a couple miles down the road and after a few minutes my brake pedal is pretty tight and I smell something burning and head back to the house. When I get there my passenger side brake is extremely hot and lightly smoking. I then yank the wheel back off and play with the caliper pins and the brake frees so I can turn the rotor by hand. Then I go hit the brake and sure enough it seizes again. I play with the pins positioning and caliper positioning for about an hour until I finally get it to sit in a place that allows me to hit the brake without it getting locked into the rotor. Then after about 200 miles of normal driving I was out again today and felt that brake grab and stick once again....
So what I was wondering is what could I do to stop this??? Do I need new caliper pins, new caliper? What?? Any help will be appreciated and I need help ASAP.
For those of you who didn't read the story above, my passenger front brake is grabbing and seizing and I need to know what I can do to fix this problem, it seems to be an alignment issue with the caliper pins and caliper but I'm not sure. I need help because it's bad for the brakes and it's giving my clutch hell in this stop and go traffic
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#13
find a large plastic or glass jar ( at least 1 gallon size )
attach a proper size clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple and clamp it
fill the jar up 1/3 with water ,, make sure that the end of the hose is in the water
crack the bleed valve slightly ( only allows slight fluid loss )
remove the master cylinder cap .
pump the brake pedal several times ( then check the master cylinder fluid level )
re-fill the master cylinder when the level gets very low ( aboot every 10 pumps or so )
these steps are a 1 person job when followed properly
( the water prevents any air being sucked back into the brake lines )
close that bleeder valve only after the clear hose shows fresh fluid flowing through it
when you are done ( use grease to coat the rubber hoses )
the grease forms a water proof barrier that will prevent any water to be absorbed in the rubber hoses
continue these steps for the front calipers and rear drum cylinders
attach a proper size clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple and clamp it
fill the jar up 1/3 with water ,, make sure that the end of the hose is in the water
crack the bleed valve slightly ( only allows slight fluid loss )
remove the master cylinder cap .
pump the brake pedal several times ( then check the master cylinder fluid level )
re-fill the master cylinder when the level gets very low ( aboot every 10 pumps or so )
these steps are a 1 person job when followed properly
( the water prevents any air being sucked back into the brake lines )
close that bleeder valve only after the clear hose shows fresh fluid flowing through it
when you are done ( use grease to coat the rubber hoses )
the grease forms a water proof barrier that will prevent any water to be absorbed in the rubber hoses
continue these steps for the front calipers and rear drum cylinders
#14
find a large plastic or glass jar ( at least 1 gallon size )
attach a proper size clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple and clamp it
fill the jar up 1/3 with water ,, make sure that the end of the hose is in the water
crack the bleed valve slightly ( only allows slight fluid loss )
remove the master cylinder cap .
pump the brake pedal several times ( then check the master cylinder fluid level )
re-fill the master cylinder when the level gets very low ( aboot every 10 pumps or so )
these steps are a 1 person job when followed properly
( the water prevents any air being sucked back into the brake lines )
close that bleeder valve only after the clear hose shows fresh fluid flowing through it
when you are done ( use grease to coat the rubber hoses )
the grease forms a water proof barrier that will prevent any water to be absorbed in the rubber hoses
continue these steps for the front calipers and rear drum cylinders
attach a proper size clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple and clamp it
fill the jar up 1/3 with water ,, make sure that the end of the hose is in the water
crack the bleed valve slightly ( only allows slight fluid loss )
remove the master cylinder cap .
pump the brake pedal several times ( then check the master cylinder fluid level )
re-fill the master cylinder when the level gets very low ( aboot every 10 pumps or so )
these steps are a 1 person job when followed properly
( the water prevents any air being sucked back into the brake lines )
close that bleeder valve only after the clear hose shows fresh fluid flowing through it
when you are done ( use grease to coat the rubber hoses )
the grease forms a water proof barrier that will prevent any water to be absorbed in the rubber hoses
continue these steps for the front calipers and rear drum cylinders
The water would prevent air from being sucked in sure....
But its going to suck in the water instead....
And then you'd have to change the fluid again.....
Or am I missing something here?
#15
you will need a minimum of 3 feet of hose
and NO! the water just prevents any air/ water from being sucked back up the hose
my auto shop teacher taught me that process
i have done this process many times and it works like charm
i use DOT6 silicone brake fluid ( it does not absorb water and it keeps the caliper and drum pistons constantly lubricated
and NO! the water just prevents any air/ water from being sucked back up the hose
my auto shop teacher taught me that process
i have done this process many times and it works like charm
i use DOT6 silicone brake fluid ( it does not absorb water and it keeps the caliper and drum pistons constantly lubricated
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