I pulled my lock cylinder out of the housing, a couple of years ago, and when I did the door chime plug came out. Since then I have had trouble starting it on occasion but if I touched the small metal flange on the plug against the column just right it would start. Also the chime would ring continuously, like the key was in the ignition while the drivers side door was open. All of a sudden it will not start anymore. It turns over like usual but will not start. Anybody have any ideas how to fix this problem??

 

Is the theft light flashing a code number?

PATS system has a "wand" around the key cylinder, this is an antenna that "reads" the PATS key's ID.
If the PATS key isn't read properly the computer will not start the fuel injectors.
Starter motor will still work but with no fuel engine wouldn't start.

This should cause anti-theft light to flash a code number.

The key cylinder itself just has the door chime and PATS.
When you turn the key it is pushing a rod that goes down the steering column to the Ignition Switch, this switch is where the power is transferred to turn on all the systems like Computer, starter motor, fuse panels.

 

No the Theft light is not flashing any codes at all. When I get in the truck, it flashes every other second, as usual, then when I put in the key it goes off in a couple more seconds. A Buddy of mine had just "Smacked" a tree pretty good, about a minute before we got back to the house, and it was hard enough to bend the bumper into the front tire. Do you know if my truck has a fuel pump has a "cut-off" in case of an accident and if so where it might be? I'm going to try some starter fluid in the intake when I get home today and see if it is being starved for fuel. Thanks for the input

 

Inertia switch(fuel cut off) will be in the passenger foot well, either just under the top of the carpet or behind the kick panel toward the top.

It is small and will have a button on the top to reset it.

The reset button is just to "get you home", inertia switch should be replaced if it is ever "tripped", because it will "trip" again even on a speed bump until replaced,

Each time the key is turned on the fuel pump will run for 2 seconds, it is not quiet, listen for it, you can turn the key on and off several times to listen for it.
If you hear it then inertia switch is fine.

 

I finally got to go out and mess with my Ranger yesterday. It's been raining "Cats and Dogs" over here for the last couple of weeks. i couldn't here the fuel pump running when I turn on the truck and I when i checked for fuel pressure on my fuel bar there was none. I pulled off the kick panel and couldn't find the Inertia switch so it must be up at the top of my carpet I'll look today if it doesn't rain. Is it possible to have a bad fuel pump Relay or is there one? Do you know where can I find a schematic for the Relays under the hood?

 

Yes there is a fuel pump(FP) relay, it is in the engine fuse box, should be labels in that box.

Two relays(maybe three) in there should click when key is turned on, EEC relay and then FP relay.
Have someone turn on the key while you have a finger on FP relay.

Also is the anti-theft light flashing normally or fast, if Key doesn't pass the PATS test then FP and it's relay won't come on

 

I am going through a "situation" with my Girlfriend right now and haven't had access to my truck since it is at her house at the lake. When I was out there a couple of weeks ago the Theft light flashed every second until I turned on the ignition then in about 5 seconds, after I turned on the ignition, it would go out. I did try starting it several times, Before hard, and the light would flash in pulses. I finally got the key cylinder plug grounded to the cylinder and the chime started working correctly but I had to charge the battery up again because I had tried to start it so many times. A friend told me that if you try to start it too many times when it is not correct that you have to have the computer code "corrected" for the injectors to work. I won't be able to check the relays until things "cool-off" a little bit and I can go out there with a Buddy of mine. I appreciate the feedback RonD and I'm sorry I haven't visited the Forum or even checked my E-Mails lately. Hopefully things will get back to Normal soon and I can get my truck back. Thanks again.

 

Take a spray can of Starting Fluid(ether) with you.

If it doesn't start then remove Power Brake Vacuum hose and spray some into the intake manifold then put hose back on.
Now try to start.
If it fires up then dies you have no fuel flow, is there gas in the tank?
Never assume gauge is right, take a can of gas with you.

If it doesn't fire at all then you have no spark, that is NOT part of PATS system.
No spark means computer may not be ON, does the Check Engine Light(CEL) come on when key is turned on?
If CEL comes on then computer is on.

If not then you may have blown a fuse or have a bad PCM relay, either would be in engine compartment fuse box.

If you have CEL with key on then CKP(crank position) sensor is about then only thing that can cause a no start.
It is down by the Crank pulley on the front of the engine, make sure it is plugged in, unplug it and plug it back in and try to start.
These rarely fail, not never but rarely, follow the wire up past water pump and into the main harness, making sure it isn't damaged.