Originally Posted by Jp7
Why don't you make them out of copper clad and actually etch them? You will get much better results and you can solder them directly to the copper. You would only need a band saw to cut the copper clad. This would be alot better than my original idea.
Yeah that would probably be the best way to go. Problem is I'm pretty limited on tools :(
I attempted drilling some new donuts out with the smaller bit and about 4 out of every five I made came out bad so I wound up tossing them altogether.
I went to a home depot tonight and found some 1/4" plastic nylon washers in the hardware section which I think will work.
Doh! $16 wasted on a hole saw bit and materials. Whats strange is only 1 of the home depot locations in town carry these washers. I looked beforehand at the other closest to the house.
Originally Posted by Jp7
Be careful you don't screw yourself by using LEDs that want too much current. The heat management gets considerably harder when you do. Do you have a spec-sheet for these?
I'm well aware of that(especially after the attempted SD style brake light led conversion i worked on awhile back lol). Plus the proper use of resistors to keep the leds from going up in smoke.
LED series parallel array wizard
< great calc
I actually changed my mind on the OSRAMs as both would not work out well due to number/voltage requirements.
Instead I am now trying to decide between the following:
Oznium Orange(603 wavelength) 190mcd 2vF 20mA 120° viewing angle PLCC-2 SMD
Cree White(5500K wavelength) 1600mcd 3.2VF 20mA 20° viewing angle PLCC-2 SMD
With the Oznium's I would have to go with 3 SMDs per ring and hook two rings together to get a total of 6 SMDs in one circuit equaling 12v total. Hopefully i can run wire between multiple needles without coming across parts of the overlays that illuminate.
With the Crees I would use 3 SMDs per ring using a resistor to run them at a slightly lower 3.0v vs 3.2v thus equaling 12v total.
I wonder though if they would still light if the battery drops below 12v?
Now here is the curve ball. Is the voltage to the dash illumination regulated? I think I've heard some people say the dimmer switch does this on the ranger but I have not tested it myself. If not that means voltage can vary from 12v up to 14.8 which would throw my resistor calculations off. Not to mention cause extra heat to be burned off during a higher voltage situation(usually when truck is running off alt). I would have to use 14.5(supposedly the sweet spot) for the source voltage instead of 12v in the calculator.
Right now I'm leaning towards going with the white Crees. I'm assuming that as opposed to an amber halo effect that's slightly a different amber from the needles themselves(due to the needle orange paint) I would have white halos around the needle hubs. Thus I will have a tricolor cluster instead of dual. I will be keeping the back lighting blue.