3 bulb taillight harness question
#1
3 bulb taillight harness question
I was wondering what year the harness from the cab no longer makes it plug and play to convert from 2 bulb to 3 bulb... I have a 04 with 06 tails and i want to make the reverse light into a amber blinker instead of the reverse light. Im a fan of amber turn sigs and i was wondering if it can be done.
Any help would be great thanks
Any help would be great thanks
#2
#4
#5
Man I was just about too say if you have 8 wires it would be plug and play. I swapped mine from 2-bulb to 3-bulb and now I'm back to 2-bulb. The 3-bulb harness is just sitting in a tyvak envelope and I was going to say $15 shipped and its yours.
#6
#7
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
I didn’t read all of the post, in a little hurry…
Take the existing brake/turn signal wires attach it to the backup lights.
At the Brake Pedal Switch - Disconnect the load side of the brake light switch and tape it off.
Run a new wire from the brake light switch load to the brake lights.
Hook up a relay (under the hood) using the old backup light circuit wires for a new set of lights and run a new fused power to the relay and to the new backup lights.
Make sure when you cut the wiring at the tail lights you leave enough for good pigtail off of the light.
Solder all connections and use a good quality heat shrink on all connections, make sure to use the heat shrink with adhesive in it.
Lots of way but this is easy and straight forward.
Mine works flawlessly, knock on wood.
Take the existing brake/turn signal wires attach it to the backup lights.
At the Brake Pedal Switch - Disconnect the load side of the brake light switch and tape it off.
Run a new wire from the brake light switch load to the brake lights.
Hook up a relay (under the hood) using the old backup light circuit wires for a new set of lights and run a new fused power to the relay and to the new backup lights.
Make sure when you cut the wiring at the tail lights you leave enough for good pigtail off of the light.
Solder all connections and use a good quality heat shrink on all connections, make sure to use the heat shrink with adhesive in it.
Lots of way but this is easy and straight forward.
Mine works flawlessly, knock on wood.
Last edited by Scrambler82; 03-19-2010 at 01:40 AM.
#9
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
The blinkers are taken care of by the original Brake Light wire; you cut the original brake light wire at the tail light then splice it to the backup light location.
So in essence the OEM Backup Lights will now work as the brake lights and the directionals. Once you disconnecting the load side of the Brake Light Switch you disable the brake light function and only leave the directionals.
The only wire you will need to run is a new brake light wire from the Brake Light Switch Load side and the wiring for the new backup lights.
This does work, on my ’03 it has worked for almost a year without any problems.
#12
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Not really sure, I did the change with the StepSide Bed change.
It shouldn’t take that long; if you solder all of the connections at the tail lights it shouldn’t be more than 30 minutes per light.
To run the new Brake Light Wire, maybe another 45 minutes.
I’m guessing but take your time, secure the new brake light wire, make good mechanical connections before soldering and heat shrink all the connections with adhesive heat shrink.
Do not use spade lugs or some other snap together connector, they will corrode over time and cause problems down the road.
Not sure, I work from the stand point of probe the wires and see what you get.
The brake light switch usually has two connections, one hot (waiting for you to press on the brake) and one load the brake light side without power (waiting for the pedal to be pressed so it can carry the current to the lights).
If there are more than two connections on the switch use the probe, write down what you get, one has to be a load for the lights.
Disconnect the side without power (OEM load), fold it back, tape it and mark it so you will remember it is not to be reconnected.
Now just to be sure, clip the probe to the load side of the Switch and step on the brake, you should get a 12 volt reading.
Run the wire to the back !
What color should you use, your call, make sure to write it down in the Service Book for future reference.
Correct.
Sorry for the vagueness but I am not an auto electrical tech or even a hopeful one just someone that uses common sense in my approach.
Probe the switch, write down what you find, work from there.
There are people on this site that have the knowledge of automotive electrical system you want but it isn’t me, sorry…
Ask any questions you want…
This is a great mod and should have been standard on all vehicles.
Statically separate amber directionals reduce accidents.
It shouldn’t take that long; if you solder all of the connections at the tail lights it shouldn’t be more than 30 minutes per light.
To run the new Brake Light Wire, maybe another 45 minutes.
I’m guessing but take your time, secure the new brake light wire, make good mechanical connections before soldering and heat shrink all the connections with adhesive heat shrink.
Do not use spade lugs or some other snap together connector, they will corrode over time and cause problems down the road.
Not sure, I work from the stand point of probe the wires and see what you get.
The brake light switch usually has two connections, one hot (waiting for you to press on the brake) and one load the brake light side without power (waiting for the pedal to be pressed so it can carry the current to the lights).
If there are more than two connections on the switch use the probe, write down what you get, one has to be a load for the lights.
Disconnect the side without power (OEM load), fold it back, tape it and mark it so you will remember it is not to be reconnected.
Now just to be sure, clip the probe to the load side of the Switch and step on the brake, you should get a 12 volt reading.
Run the wire to the back !
What color should you use, your call, make sure to write it down in the Service Book for future reference.
Sorry for the vagueness but I am not an auto electrical tech or even a hopeful one just someone that uses common sense in my approach.
Probe the switch, write down what you find, work from there.
There are people on this site that have the knowledge of automotive electrical system you want but it isn’t me, sorry…
Ask any questions you want…
This is a great mod and should have been standard on all vehicles.
Statically separate amber directionals reduce accidents.
#15
#17
Bumping an old thread for a similar question.
If it weren't winter right now, I'd just get into it and see what happens, but I have a set of 99 tails with the amber turns, and I want to put them on my 00 truck. I believe I've got a 2 bulb setup (brake/turn, and reverse), but would an 00 truck have the 8 wire harness, or would I have to go through the wiring modifications?
I'm familiar with separating the brake function from the turns, etc., but I'm just wondering if this is what I should be prepared to do, or if I have a chance at a plug-and-play swap.
Thanks in advance for any help.
If it weren't winter right now, I'd just get into it and see what happens, but I have a set of 99 tails with the amber turns, and I want to put them on my 00 truck. I believe I've got a 2 bulb setup (brake/turn, and reverse), but would an 00 truck have the 8 wire harness, or would I have to go through the wiring modifications?
I'm familiar with separating the brake function from the turns, etc., but I'm just wondering if this is what I should be prepared to do, or if I have a chance at a plug-and-play swap.
Thanks in advance for any help.
#18
#19
#20
I know this is an older thread but I might be facing the same issue. I've got a 2000 ranger that has an 8-wire harness going back to the tail light harness (2 bulb). Would I have to modify anything to make a 3-bulb harness work?
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