Hi; everyone; 88 ranger 4x4 5 speed transmission; temp & fuel gauges not working; vehicle been sitting for a few years; new high press. fuel pump ; now starts & runs; but now the Gauges don't work; JUST the temp & fuel gauges not working
ANY ADVICE or HELP; Thanks in advance, steve

post or PM me

 

They share a common power supply located in the dash, but oil pressure gauge and tach use the same power supply.

I would first test the temp gauge/sender problem may not be related.
There is a ONE WIRE temp sender on the intake by thermostat housing, not the 2 wire sensor, that is for the computer.
Remove that one wire from sender.
Ground the wire, use jumper wire to battery or to engine block.
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go up to full HOT
Remove the jumper and gauge should go to full COLD
If this happens then wire, gauge and power supply are good, replace sender.

If it doesn't happen then wire, gauge or power supply are not good, lol.
So dash will have to be pulled out for more tests.


Fuel gauge works the same, float in the tank is the Ground for the gauge.

 

Thanks Ron; I will try this; is there any tests on the cluster itself?, steve

 

No not really, dash wiring doesn't get moved around much so tends to stay working, and the circuit boards are fairly protected.

Ford did use an anti-slosh circuit board in the back of the dash board for the fuel gauge, those are known to fail causing no fuel gauge movement or fuel needle sticks at one position.
But you would test the fuel sending unit first, by same method as temp sending unit, as that is more likely to be the issue.

Google: ford anti slosh module

Module prevents needle from moving up and down when going around corners, as the gas "sloshes" around in the tank, hence the name.........

 

Put in NEW front fuel pump, high press one on frame rail; now starts & runs; need to drive out old gas or drain?; Thanks Ron; first I tried ground test & it went to full hot ; I took off connector on temp sender & cleaned it now seems to work now to go to the sender in tank for the fuel gauge;(fuel gauge not working) check for clean ground; I was thinking about removing bed liner & cutting a hole in bed to get straight to work on pickup & sender assy. sounds weird I know, but this truck is very crappy looking with High miles, so would make for easier check; then cover with sheet metal & pop rivets
OH; I replaced the tank pump long ago; may need to put new strainer, as been sitting for a few years with OLD gas

 

If it has been less than 2 years and gas cap was on just add some fresh fuel and drive it.

A few have done that, cut a hole in the bed, to get to fuel tank.
For the few times you need to get to it it seems a waste but rusty bolts can make lifting the bed or dropping the tank a pain.

If the rear leaf spring hangers were rusted out(common on older rangers) I would be tempted to pull the bed and get it all done.

 

Truck quit on me again; Had to be towed home; right in the middle of storm Friday; just moved bed back today ; couple of tough bolts, but got moved ; fuel pickup is close to cab; hope unit comes out easy FOUND broken & burned pins on harness connecter to pickup; need new pickup;;would that also cause new hi press. pump to not work??

Hope to get this & maybe the inop fuel guage will be fixed too??

also can I get new 4 pin connector for wiring harness; I can remove wires from connecter if necessary PLEASE REPLY!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Auto parts store should have weather proof 4 pin "locking" connector sets, or you will need to hit the wrecking yards if you want to match whats on there now.

If the 4-pin connector is corroded then yes that would cause the new fuel pump to stop.
2 pins are for the gauge, other 2 are for the fuel pump

An just as a "heads up"
Ford changed gauges and senders in 1989, so '89 and later sender will not read correctly on '88 or older gauge.

Good read here on Ford fuel gauges and senders: http://www.fordification.com/tech/fu...ding-units.htm

 

Yes Ron; the pins were corroded, burnt, & or broke off; also I will need a new connector if I cant find at auto parts store they are avail. online
Thanks for your help!

 

Hi all; This is the Ranger that I put the NEW front high pressure in & quit after about 25 miles I put a new fuel sending unit & in tank pump; still nothing worked; pulled out NEW front HI pressure pump & it tested good; started tracing wiring down;; Found some wires inside large loom that goes across engine; THRU (center) Plenum 2.9 V6; that were broken; namely the red one & purple with ? stripe ; the ones that go to THE 2 FUEL PUMPS; Now Everything works; including fuel gauge; I put 3-4 gal. of the mixed used fuel ( strained ) back in about got that all ran out; Drove about 50 miles today ; will carry new 87 octane gas with NO ethanal ; till runs out ( that will also tell me about how accurate the new sender is) then only 87 100% GAS; I would like to thank > RON<, for his Help & advice; maybe someone else can use my experience on this problem to help them?

 

Thanks for the update, and your welcome

 

RON; hope your & my posts will help others with similar problems with fuel delivery;

Ron & everyone else; tried to run out All old fuel, but started missing ; cutting out; almost right on empty mark; so changed fuel filter; VERY MUDDY & STOPPED UP; then put in new 87 octane, no ethanol ; after about a minute, stopped missing; running smooth now ; FOR ABOUT 2 MILES HOME;;
stevie

 

Hi again Ron; started up today ran smooth; then about a mile down the road started missing again until died wouldn't start; set a few minutes; finally started up running smoothly; neighbor was on road with his 4 wheeler; while I was talking to him, truck died again; would not even fire, so he pushed me home????fuel pump press was at 30 psi, after new hi press pump installed; maybe need press regulator??

oh seemed to miss more under load gas pedal down

Any more advice??

 

I would check fuel filter again

Fuel Pressure regulator(FPR) is just a valve on the fuel rail that sends unneeded fuel back to the fuel tank when it isn't needed, they do fail but it usually wouldn't be intermittent.
It is operated by intake vacuum, when engine is idling vacuum is highest and fuel demand lowest, so FPR is pulled open and allows unneeded fuel to return to the fuel tank, as you open the throttle fuel demand increases and vacuum also drops, so FPR closes.
You could put your fuel pressure gauge on and then watch if pressure dropped as engine stalled out.

Fuel filter, inline or in the tank(the sock), allows the "flow" of fuel, lower flow won't lower pressure until fuel demand exceeds the "flow".
Spec for fuel pressure is 35-42psi for your year.
If you start the engine you should see close to 35psi, if you pull off the vacuum hose to the FPR(plug the hose with your finger) you should see pressure go up to about 42psi

 

now wont fire at all;( I have not check for fire with another plug while cranking; need a neighbor to help; I am alone turn the ign switch to on; hear fuel pumps; then the press is 41; yesterday when running it was 30; seems like no fire at all, just cranking; do these bolt on the side of distributer ign. models become intermittent; before when they quit they quit; but the older ford cars could quit & then work; my dads 81 LTD did this

 

Yes, TFI modules can change to intermittent, but usually it is when they heat up they stop sparking, then start again after cooling down.
Coils can do that as well, the temp thing.

 

CHECKED TODAY; NO FIRE AT SPARK PLUG; removed ign module for replacement or test, if auto supply stores can check it; was lifetime guaranteed ign module & distributor, but lost receipt; my dad bought for me, now no receipt; hope they have a record of the purchase, anyway will try new ign module WHAT A MESS chasing down problems; I would not mess with it except it is a 4x4, & has tons of lifetime guaranteed parts on it & been paid for for years

 

Checked ohms on coil today (cold); think OK? but might still be a problem; try ign module next

 

Good read here on TFI system: Ford EEC-IV/TFI-IV Electronic Engine Control Troubleshooting

Coils can be tested but only for if they are bad not for if they are good, lol, I know a bit of a contradiction.
A failed coil will test bad with ohm meter.
A failing coil will test good.

 

coil test good in ohm limits, hot?; but ign. module tested good at Autozone; reman. distributor with new pickup, coming tomorrow; these parts are lifetime guaranteed when bought years ago, so no charge; next (if this doesn't work might be engine control unit, YOUR thoughts? computer about $70-$80
will find out about dist. soon, steve

 

TFI system doesn't need the computer to work(to spark).
It sends spark timing TO the computer(PIP wire), and the computer sends back spark advance "suggestions" on the SPOUT wire.

Computer does use the PIP signal from TFI to time fuel injectors with spark.

TFI does need 12volts, could it be something as simple as a loose 12v connection

You have test spark and it isn't working right?
And if you manually put gas in the intake, or starting fluid, the engine won't start right?

 

No fire when engine is cranked at all ; haven't tried starting fluid; might pull a plug & see if getting gas; gas on rail looks good, holds pressure & in limits GOOD idea; check for voltage to ign. module; I will go thru the TFI work sheet to test for voltage might need to trace wiring some more; Thanks for your Patience in helping me with this; my patience is getting weary

 

Ron; ran voltage check; getting voltage at coil & run pin on ign module lead; ; started checking for loose or broke wires; THOUGHT I WOULD CHECK IGNITION SWITCH on steering post; when I removed the 2 screws that holds on the plastic trim covers; part of switch fell to floor; switch came apart, ears were not crimped down to hold switch together; inside contacts looked VERY good; this is the 2ND ign. switch I have put on; I could fix this one ,crimp ears back down; but it is lifetime guarantee, so will get a new one

 

Got rebuilt dist. today & put back in(thought I would never get dist. to go down??? , also new ign. switch; turned to start; FIRED RIGHT UP & RAN SMOOTH; did not drive as was getting dark, & started to rain, AGAIN will set timing & drive soon; fingers crossed LOL, stevie

Ron; you can see me on Facebook; under

>Stephen Murrell<

24973 Woodchuck Road
Tecumseh, Ok.
74873

 

Good work, wondering if distributor pickup/sensor was the problem?
Was shaft wobbly/loose?