hey guys, what do you do about all the extra wire after hooking up your kc's on the grill? I have TONS of extra wire, all i did was zip tie it and kinda put it behind the battery..

Also, how am i supposed to wire up the other 2 sets? Connect them to the poss. side of the battery as well? that will be like 6 wires going to the battery...

Any advice would greatly be appreciated..

 

Get yourself a fuse block for the extra lights - and you shoudl start investing in some relay's for all your lights, wire up 2-4 lights per relay

 

the lights come with relays.. 1 lights per relay.. or atleast thats what i think it is.. how would i wire it up to a fuse box?

 

you should wire the 4 on the roll bar to 2 40amp relays and a switch and wire up the two on the brush guard to 1 40amp relay and a switch.

 

that is a good idea.. where do i get the relays lol

 

The wiring kits should have come with the lights

 

they did.. but i have to hook them up the the battery or another 12V power source.. That is 6 wires i have to either hook up to my battery or find somehwere else to put them..

 

The Fuse box postive maybe?

 

hmm.. never thought about that..

 

6 wires seems to be alot. Are you using relays?

This is how I did my 4 lights
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...89-relays.html

 

dont the kc's come with relays? or what are those little boxes that each set plugs into.?

 

Yeah those are the relays. Should have 4-5 prongs on the bottom.

 

yep.. so each set comes with a relay.. but you still have to hook the yellow and white wires up to the battery, or another 12v power source for the lights to work..

 

here are some pics of my wiring and the relays.. I know, its kinda ugly, but it was pitch black outside and the only light i had was my cell phone lol.















this is actually the incorect way to wire the switch.. the lights will not work this way, but the led will.. if i wire it correctly, the lights work, but the led doesnt?






you can see me holding the relay in my hand

 

Put a connector on that white wire in the last pic.

 

yeah, didnt have any on me at the time, but you can see.. i will have to put the other 2 sets' wires on the battery.. thats alot of shi!t attached to the battery

 

Use the wire diagram that was posted by Turbo. That should cut down alot of the wires and there should only be 2 positives running to the battery for the 4 on the bar.

 

 

yep.. that'll work for ya... and just expand it out (as necessary) for the extra relays/lights.

to cut down on the number of things tapped into your positive battery terminal, I'd suggest a 4- or 6- position fuse block -- run each of those wires to the fuse block, with a 30A fuse on each leg, then run some 8- or 10-gauge wire to connect the other sides together and to the (+) terminal on the battery (and, if you're OCD about things like this [like I am], probably another fuse or circuit breaker [probably in the 80-120A range] on that wire, as well !)

 

yeah, im pretty sure im just gunna have my mechanic do it.. he wants like 100 bucks and he will do everything.. i will probably un-do my initial wiring for the first two wires.. he will make everything all professional.. use fuse block and everything..

 

Its not hard James and it'll save you $100 for another mod lol

 

yeah, not sure exactly what i am going to do yet..

 

Wiring isn't a biggy...

1) Mount the relays under the hood and the switch(s) on the dash where you want them.
2) Run a fused 18-ga wire from the Fuse Panel inside of the Vehicle to the Switch(s) on the dash (check the location on the fuse panel for the type of power you want - on all the time or on with the key). There should be two poles on the switch connect the wire to the center one but either will do. (If running two or more switches, you can daisy chain the power wire from one switch to the next, taking into account the power wire gauge and fuse size).
3) From the second pole on the switch run another 18-ga wire to pole 86 on each of the relays.
4) Run an 18-ga wire from pole 85 on the Relay to ground.

NOTTE: Pins 85 and 86 on the relay are interchangeable.

Check Point: Flip the switch on and off (with the power on to the switch). You should hear a clicking sound coming from the relay. If not check the wires again and re-check for clicking sound.

You now have a working relay circuit with the ability to control higher amperage power from the battery.

5) Run a fused 12-ga or larger wire from the battery to pin 30 on the relay (this will bring power to the relay).
6) Run another 12 or larger ga wire from pin 87 on the relay to the lights and connect to the red wire at the lights.
7) Run a black wire connected the black wire at the lights back to the battery or to a common ground point in the battery area.

NOTE: The ground wire can be connected to the frame of the vehicle but there is always a chance of a bad connection and high resistance so I suggest you run the ground wire back to the battery. This is your choice but a path of least resistance is the best to get all of the light possible out of the Off-Road Lights and make them last as long as possible.
It is sometimes better to make a common ground point near the battery and run one wire to the battery BUT make sure you take into account all of the current possible that MAY run through this wire and size it accordingly. (this can apply to the power wire too)

Check Point: Here again, if the relay clicked, the light should light up when the Switch is turned on; TRY IT and see.

If the lights do not light up then check the wiring.


Luck to ya.

 

wow so that is using none of the wiring that comes with the lights..

 

Yup, I buy my lights without the harness, reason being that I believe the Manufacturers of the light. although they know what will work, only supply the minimum required gauge of wire.

If you have the harness that comes with the lights use it, it will work OK just make sure the main power fuse on the wire coming from the battery is as close to the battery as feasible, it doesn't have to be on top of it but in the area.

You notice I mentioned 18-ga for the switch section, I actually use 16-ga, way overkill - just me; for the actual current draw 20-ga would work OK.
On the power wire I use 10-ga on my vehicles, 12 is OK 14 will work but 10 is over-kill - just me again; my lights get all of the current they need to burn the brightest and last the longest.
Also, wire sets of two lights per harness and per relay.
You can have two relays actuated by one dash switch; if you want four lights on one relay you will need to get a 50 or 60 amp relay.
Why two lights per relay because if one circuit fails you have another to lights the way.

I guess I got off subject from your original post, sorry.
The extra wire, I like to keep everything as short as possible, not coiled, run the wires without pulling things too tight, allow for corners, sharp edges and the such, leave a little extra for future mods but other than that cut off the excess wire and re-crimp/solder a new lug on the end with adhesive type heat shrink.
(Added: Sometimes when I do not have a new lug to use or cutting the end of a wire that has a Relay connector on it just isn't possible, consider cutting a piece of wire out of the middle of the wire. I know cut a good wire why, you are right, but I like to keep thing neat so cut the wire, twist the ends together for a good mechanical bond and solder, DON'T forget the adhesive heat shrink before soldering; the wire will be as good as new).

While I am on the Soap Box... solder all of your connections and use a good quality heat shrink with adhesive inside. Crimped, taped or twisted wires will come loose or corrode and cause problems when you really need the lights.

Again sorry for preaching, I am off of the box now...