Fog Light problem
#1
Fog Light problem
Well, I went to class today and I had my foglights on and they worked fine. I got out of class an hour and a half later and I turned them on came home and noticed that the lights werent on when I looked in my window my truck was facing. I got out and noticed that both of them are not working. I pulled them out just in case the sheer luck that they both burned out but they are both in tact.
I was wondering, there has to be a fuse for the lights, but in my owners manual.. there is no listing of one. I was wondering if anyone knew of the fuse or if someone knew of the problem.
Thanks
I was wondering, there has to be a fuse for the lights, but in my owners manual.. there is no listing of one. I was wondering if anyone knew of the fuse or if someone knew of the problem.
Thanks
Last edited by Tyrant924; 02-15-2005 at 10:14 AM.
#2
#4
#5
#7
Ok I just went over all the fuses inside and out and nothing looks burned out. I didn't pull all of them, but I put a flashlight behind em all and I looked for burned ones and I didn't see anything.
I looked at the wiring too to see if it melted anywhere and I didn't notice anything.
The switch still lights up so I am gussing it's not the switch.
I am so confused...
I looked at the wiring too to see if it melted anywhere and I didn't notice anything.
The switch still lights up so I am gussing it's not the switch.
I am so confused...
#8
#9
OK. I found a picture of the circuit. Check fuse #31 in the underhood box. The relay that controls the fogs is in the same box.
A quick check on the fuse and relay: Turn on the low beam headlights. Watch to see if the green LED in the fog lamp switch goes on and off when the fog lamp switch is cycled. If it does go on and off, then the relay and fuse are OK. If it does not, the fault could lie in the fuse, the relay, the wiring or the "smart junction box" or one of its inputs.
A quick check on the fuse and relay: Turn on the low beam headlights. Watch to see if the green LED in the fog lamp switch goes on and off when the fog lamp switch is cycled. If it does go on and off, then the relay and fuse are OK. If it does not, the fault could lie in the fuse, the relay, the wiring or the "smart junction box" or one of its inputs.
Last edited by V8 Level II; 02-15-2005 at 11:27 AM.
#10
I didn't check to see if the fuses were broken at all, I just looked to see if they were burned, was trying to avoid pulling all of them.
The green light on the fog lamp switch does turn on and off when it is cycled, that is where my problem is, I figured that it was fused after the switch?
I am going to hook a meter up to the lamp with the lamps on and see if there is any kind of current getting to it. That way I can tell if it something further back in the line or it happens to be the bulb.
Thanks for all the help on this guys!
I'll try this and come back, I may just have to start yankin fuses... damnit
The green light on the fog lamp switch does turn on and off when it is cycled, that is where my problem is, I figured that it was fused after the switch?
I am going to hook a meter up to the lamp with the lamps on and see if there is any kind of current getting to it. That way I can tell if it something further back in the line or it happens to be the bulb.
Thanks for all the help on this guys!
I'll try this and come back, I may just have to start yankin fuses... damnit
#11
Ok... SO..I just pulled the fog out and I hooked meter up to end lead... It says 11.46(with the key in just the ACC mode) so... the outlet is getting power... so I tested for continuity through the bulb and I didn't get a beep.. so it sounds like the lights are dead...
BUT what I dont understand is how they BOTH went at the same time?? I mean you look at the bulb and I can swear on my life neither look burnt broken or cracked...
BUT what I dont understand is how they BOTH went at the same time?? I mean you look at the bulb and I can swear on my life neither look burnt broken or cracked...
#12
Originally Posted by Tyrant924
I am going to hook a meter up to the lamp with the lamps on and see if there is any kind of current getting to it. That way I can tell if it something further back in the line or it happens to be the bulb.
#13
Originally Posted by Tyrant924
Ok... SO..I just pulled the fog out and I hooked meter up to end lead... It says 11.46(with the key in just the ACC mode) so... the outlet is getting power... so I tested for continuity through the bulb and I didn't get a beep.. so it sounds like the lights are dead...
BUT what I dont understand is how they BOTH went at the same time?? I mean you look at the bulb and I can swear on my life neither look burnt broken or cracked...
BUT what I dont understand is how they BOTH went at the same time?? I mean you look at the bulb and I can swear on my life neither look burnt broken or cracked...
BTW: I had both my Fogs go out within 250 miles of each other.... What is up with these bulbs!?!?!?!
#14
Well it has been wet here for like the past 3 days pretty heavy. I only have 6,000miles on my truck I hope I don't have a bad wire I've only had the SOB for like.. 7 months!
These are aftermarket bulbs too I bought the "blue" bulbs for the fogs and for the headlights.
Damn I guess I'll just have to grab my originals from my moms house and test those out. That won't be till like next week either.
Edit: One thing I did notice is that the connections seemed kinda... shady.. like loose and stuff.. like they were cliped down and everything just jankball-like made. So I uncliped the clips at the lead and it was soaked. but the bulb leads were still dry as a bone.
These are aftermarket bulbs too I bought the "blue" bulbs for the fogs and for the headlights.
Damn I guess I'll just have to grab my originals from my moms house and test those out. That won't be till like next week either.
Edit: One thing I did notice is that the connections seemed kinda... shady.. like loose and stuff.. like they were cliped down and everything just jankball-like made. So I uncliped the clips at the lead and it was soaked. but the bulb leads were still dry as a bone.
#15
Originally Posted by Tyrant924
IThe green light on the fog lamp switch does turn on and off when it is cycled, that is where my problem is, I figured that it was fused after the switch?
The green light is in parallel with the fog lamps at the end of the circuit before ground. If it is working correctly, then the #31 fuse and the relay must be OK.
That only leaves the tan/orange hot wires to the fogs, the connectors, the bulbs and the two grounds.
2004:
Last edited by V8 Level II; 02-16-2005 at 09:32 AM.
#16
a lot of times the manufacture process on those aftermarket bulbs is not so good
this is the first report of 2004 + fogs having problems that I have seen
although not universally liked the construction and design of the 'square' fog in the Ford line to me seems better than past models
mine were under water for over a 1/2 hour - no leaks or water penetration
I have been running SilverStars for over a year - no problem, knock on wood
glad it was just the bulbs and not a fuse or wire failure
this is the first report of 2004 + fogs having problems that I have seen
although not universally liked the construction and design of the 'square' fog in the Ford line to me seems better than past models
mine were under water for over a 1/2 hour - no leaks or water penetration
I have been running SilverStars for over a year - no problem, knock on wood
glad it was just the bulbs and not a fuse or wire failure
#17
The Ford light sockets in the headlights and foglights are fine for the factory recommended bulbs. However, they don't have much tolerance for anything with more amp draw than the stockers. The standard 9145 foglamp bulbs used in 2004s are rated at about 45 watts. If your aftermarket bulbs are much higher wattage, they may have damaged the sockets.
#18
#19
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MugenCRX04
OLD - Interior, Exterior, Electrical, & Misc.
13
03-28-2011 04:41 PM
Ranger_Envy
General Technical & Electrical
3
07-27-2009 09:05 PM
melj2000
General Technical & Electrical
2
09-28-2007 11:12 AM