All this talk of upgrading alternators
#27
09-24-2007
that is what a large case should look like.
this is what a 3g small case should look like. mount holes and positions dont matter, just the case itself.
#29
09-24-2007
#30
10-03-2007
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
i know....i remember seeing it, but cant find it in a search...
i did....and i saw better voltage because of it.....i upgraded to 4 gauge wire for + and -...
i did....and i saw better voltage because of it.....i upgraded to 4 gauge wire for + and -...
What wires should actually be upgraded?
I know the following should:
Negative battery cable
Positive battery cable
Cable from alternator to starter relay
Relay to Battery
Anything else?
Is there a kit out there to buy instead of buying all of it seperatly? COST is a factor since I just dropped $180 on the new alternator.
#32
10-04-2007
#33
10-04-2007
#34
10-04-2007
I'm going to take a look tonight and see what I actually have under the hood, but I like your way. I really don't need more power to the starter or starter relay, just to the battery.
So here's what I'll have:
Alt to battery with a inline fuse rated for at least 175amps
Batt to chassis ground
Engine block to chassis ground forgot that one on my last post
Am I forgetting anything that should be done?
So here's what I'll have:
Alt to battery with a inline fuse rated for at least 175amps
Batt to chassis ground
Engine block to chassis ground forgot that one on my last post
Am I forgetting anything that should be done?
#35
10-04-2007
#37
10-04-2007
#39
10-04-2007
#41
10-04-2007
#42
10-05-2007
Sorry to keep this thread going but I ran into a few problems checking on the "Big 3" last night.
1.) My battery ground is easily upgraded. Short run no problems here.
2.) My engine ground attaches on to the intake and the firewall next to the wiper motor. Seems like it runs to a bolt that holds the plastic 4.0 cover on that bolts directly into the block. I thought the ground connected somewhere else on the block. But is this an ok ground? Was also wondering if I could run a 4g ground directly from the alternator to the firewall next to my ECU to enhance the grounding effect? I do have a green grounding stud on the back of the alternator.
3.) My alternator to my starter relay has some funky connections at the relay and would require lots of rigging to get this to work. I was wondering if I could just piggyback another 6g wire from the alternator directly to the battery while keeping the stock 6g wire running to the starter relay. Or should I piggyback 4g and run directly to the battery while keeping my stock connections?
Will #3 affect my starting power since the most of the juice will flow directly to the battery instead of the relay? Or will the juice flow where it is needed when starting up?
I'll be doing this this weekend so if someone would be kind enough to chime in it would be appreciated. Thanks all!
1.) My battery ground is easily upgraded. Short run no problems here.
2.) My engine ground attaches on to the intake and the firewall next to the wiper motor. Seems like it runs to a bolt that holds the plastic 4.0 cover on that bolts directly into the block. I thought the ground connected somewhere else on the block. But is this an ok ground? Was also wondering if I could run a 4g ground directly from the alternator to the firewall next to my ECU to enhance the grounding effect? I do have a green grounding stud on the back of the alternator.
3.) My alternator to my starter relay has some funky connections at the relay and would require lots of rigging to get this to work. I was wondering if I could just piggyback another 6g wire from the alternator directly to the battery while keeping the stock 6g wire running to the starter relay. Or should I piggyback 4g and run directly to the battery while keeping my stock connections?
Will #3 affect my starting power since the most of the juice will flow directly to the battery instead of the relay? Or will the juice flow where it is needed when starting up?
I'll be doing this this weekend so if someone would be kind enough to chime in it would be appreciated. Thanks all!
Last edited by jtfoxman; 10-05-2007 at 11:01 AM.
#44
10-05-2007
Originally Posted by jtfoxman
Sorry to keep this thread going but I ran into a few problems checking on the "Big 3" last night.
1.) My battery ground is easily upgraded. Short run no problems here.
2.) My engine ground attaches on to the intake and the firewall next to the wiper motor. Seems like it runs to a bolt that holds the plastic 4.0 cover on that bolts directly into the block. I thought the ground connected somewhere else on the block. But is this an ok ground? Was also wondering if I could run a 4g ground directly from the alternator to the firewall next to my ECU to enhance the grounding effect? I do have a green grounding stud on the back of the alternator.
3.) My alternator to my starter relay has some funky connections at the relay and would require lots of rigging to get this to work. I was wondering if I could just piggyback another 6g wire from the alternator directly to the battery while keeping the stock 6g wire running to the starter relay. Or should I piggyback 4g and run directly to the battery while keeping my stock connections?
Will #3 affect my starting power since the most of the juice will flow directly to the battery instead of the relay? Or will the juice flow where it is needed when starting up?
I'll be doing this this weekend so if someone would be kind enough to chime in it would be appreciated. Thanks all!
1.) My battery ground is easily upgraded. Short run no problems here.
2.) My engine ground attaches on to the intake and the firewall next to the wiper motor. Seems like it runs to a bolt that holds the plastic 4.0 cover on that bolts directly into the block. I thought the ground connected somewhere else on the block. But is this an ok ground? Was also wondering if I could run a 4g ground directly from the alternator to the firewall next to my ECU to enhance the grounding effect? I do have a green grounding stud on the back of the alternator.
3.) My alternator to my starter relay has some funky connections at the relay and would require lots of rigging to get this to work. I was wondering if I could just piggyback another 6g wire from the alternator directly to the battery while keeping the stock 6g wire running to the starter relay. Or should I piggyback 4g and run directly to the battery while keeping my stock connections?
Will #3 affect my starting power since the most of the juice will flow directly to the battery instead of the relay? Or will the juice flow where it is needed when starting up?
I'll be doing this this weekend so if someone would be kind enough to chime in it would be appreciated. Thanks all!
if there is a grounding strap there already on the block, follow it with the 4 gauge wire...
starting power will not be affected....i have had mine like that for almost a year without a starting problem yet....your starter draws off the battery anywas....
#45
10-05-2007
OK. So I should stick with the 4g then and not ground the alternator to the firewall.
The only ground strap I have is on the intake, I think they hooked it up wrong spot when they replaced my motor and I can't seem to find a more suitable location on the block for a new ground. The strap seems to be a little longer than it should be since it connects right there onto the intake.
The only ground strap I have is on the intake, I think they hooked it up wrong spot when they replaced my motor and I can't seem to find a more suitable location on the block for a new ground. The strap seems to be a little longer than it should be since it connects right there onto the intake.
#46
10-05-2007
#48
10-05-2007
#50
10-05-2007
UDP = Under Drive Pulley (smaller crank pulley)
get you an alternator from either www.jusnesmodified.com or www.summitracing.com ....they are about the best places...
get you an alternator from either www.jusnesmodified.com or www.summitracing.com ....they are about the best places...
