Hi there,

I have a 1998 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 Automatic w/ 4x4

I have two things I need some help with if anyone has knowledge on either.

First issue: I need help identifying a connector and where it properly connects.

This connector is on a green wire with a white stripe, it is an individual wire that comes out of the wire loom going to the large light grey connector for the transmission located on the back passenger side of the motor. The wire has a small 90 degree black boot on the end of it. Was wondering where that connects on to.

Second issue: Electrical gremlin.

I’m trying to diagnose a severely intermittent electrical issue. To start, It’s extremely inconsistent making it very hard to isolate the source of the problem. It also can happen while the truck is running or when I go to start it cold. I will list all I have observed to occur when the issue exists.

While the truck is already running:
Engine will idle up slightly
a feint whirring noise can be heard in the cab and is very hard to tell where it is originating from thought it sounds like from below possibly from the transmission.
While driving this can make the truck shudder, and have mild power loss but randomly will cease and resume normal operation.
If I shut the truck off while this is occurring at idle my gauge lights will dim severely and flicker (truck shorting out/ grounding out) as well as my headlights which normally wouldn’t be phased by turning the truck off. Stereo freaks out as well due to the shorting out.

While the truck is not running: (this is where it is odd)
Sometimes when I turn the key into the accessory position but do not attempt to crank the motor it will go through the normal steps (relay clicks, fuel pump etc.) but as soon as I go to crank it the whole truck dies. No power at all.
when I return the key to the off position the power comes back
Sometimes when I turn the key into the accessory position it will kill all the power to the truck at that step and not even go through the relays clicks stage or allow me to start it.

What I have done so far:

I have an aftermarket stereo setup, I first disconnected that entirely and tested to see if the problem persisted, it did, so it’s not the stereo.

I checked the battery voltage, this is a brand new battery and the voltage read 12.6V. Not a battery issue.

I checked the terminals and terminal connectors, there was some mild corrosion so I cleaned them thoroughly and reconnected them. Problem still persisted.

I checked the alternate ground which connects to the chassis behind the driver side headlight next to the battery, it had some light corrosion so I cleaned it and ensured proper connection anyways. Problem persists.

I checked the primary cables running to the starter, cables were in good condition free of any cuts or frays and the starter works completely fine when it has power.

I checked the cables going to the alternator as well as the alternator connections, all were in good working condition with no notable issues. Alternator was also replaced as of February 2020.

I’m running out of ideas, and am hoping to see if anyone has experienced anything similar.

In addition, here is some context if it helps; the truck sat from June 28th of this year until Nov 1st of this year due to the transmission crapping out. November 1st is when I was able to get the transmission re-installed and the truck running. I had no electrical issues prior to this installation, the problem began after it was installed. Actually almost immediately, when I went to fire it up for the first time it killed the truck when I turned the key into the on position. But then after trying again it allowed me to start it and all seemed normal for a little. I ask about that little boot connector because it’s the only thing that I am not 100% sure on, and I feel it may not be in the correct place as I was dumb and didn’t note where I disconnected it from.

Any help is appreciated, thank you!

 

One issue is for sure battery cables, positive or negative, clean BOTH ends of all cables/wires connected to battery, if that doesn't solve it replace cables/wires

What you describe is an AMP issue
Key on requires maybe 7 to 10 amps from battery cables, so bad cables/wires won't effect that too much
Starter motor requires 60-75amps instantly, if either positive OR negative battery cable can not pass 60-75amps then it heats up at that spot and ALL power goes away, like flipping an OFF switch, after the first heat up/cool down it "may" pass the 60-75amps the next time, and may not

You can use a razor knife and cut back the insulation on the larger battery cables, go back at least 5", if you see any white powdery corrosion replace the cable


Light green/white stripe wire was used for Left turn signals in some years and right turn in other years, see if all signals/bulbs are working
Nothing else pops out on my diagrams

 

I will definitely give the primary cables a check over and post my findings.

I seriously appreciate the help, and funny enough actually my front right turn signal has two bulbs, but only one flashes brighter when the turn signal is on (both are supposed to as they do on the left) so I’d say you’re likely correct with the green white striped wire info. I’ll have to try and dig around to see where it’s proper home is. Odd that it would connect to the back of the motor somewhere, Ford/Mazda and their quirks I suppose hahaha.