I was wondering if it is possible to to use empty fuse holes in the fuse pannel under the dash to hold fuses for accessories?

 

You would have to pull it all apart and fit sockets in and everything. It would easier to put in an auxiliary fuse panel behind the dash somewhere and hook it all up back there.

 

wut?

 

It is possible to add circuits to the 95~03 dash fuse panel but not as easy as simply adding a fuse.

Looking into any unused fuse cavity in the dash fuse panel, there will likely be a terminal on one side only. The output terminal from the fuse cavity to the load is not factory installed unless it is needed.

Also, different 'zones' of the panel have different inputs: hot in RUN, hot in START/RUN, hot in ACC/RUN, hot at all times, etc, etc. It is necessary to determine which open cavity would be suited to the circuit being added.

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I have successfully added maybe 6 low current circuits to my dash fuse panel by disassembling it and installing output terminals and fuses in the correct zones.

To install any additional terminals, it is necessary to pull the panel out and remove the locking grid from the front so the terminals can be added to the hidden side. The fuse panel is hard wired into the dash harness so it must be worked on in the truck but pulled out slightly for access. It is a little awkward but still possible.

Real fuse terminals are very heavy duty and necessary for this application but I'm sure that they would be next to impossible to find individually. I salvaged my terminals from this junkyard Ranger panel:






Stuff to remember:

• Definitely disconnect the battery before beginning. About half of the dash panel circuits are hot all the time.
• As always, it is critical that any circuit be adequately wired and properly fused near the source.
• In general, the groups of fuses in the dash fuse panel are served by larger fuses in the Distribution Box under the hood. If circuits are added to the dash box indiscriminately, it is very possible to reach a combined current that can melt a larger fuse in the Distribution Box.
• For anything but a very low amp circuit, it would be better to forget about the dash panel and run a new circuit from the source. It would be possible to wire it directly from the cable clamp at the battery but, IMO, it is cleaner to come off the bolted positive cable at the front of the distribution box.
• Any electrical modification is potentially risky, probably more so for a fuse panel modification. Proceed at your own peril!

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FWIW, this is the "region" layout in my 2003 Ranger. Other years are probably different:

Always hot: 1 5 9 13 17 18 21 22 25 26 29 30 35
Hot in Run: 2 6 10 14
Hot in Run/Acc: 12 16 20
Hot in Run/Start: 11 15 19
Hot in Start: 24 28
Trailer tow turn signals: 3 7
Hot with high beams: 33

 

Thanks for all the info Bob! but i think i will forget about adding them to the fuse pannel. another question though. How many amps can i hook onto the positive cable in the distrobution box? I need to hook up 4 130w lights, 2 55 watt lights and my cb and maybe more stuff down the road.

 

I agree. With the possible exception of the CB, I would not attempt to mod the dash fuse panel to support any of those items.

I have no idea what the absolute current limit would be at the positive cable. My guess is that it would handle way more than what you have listed above.

 

IMHO… Run a separate fused power cable for each of the added components straight from the battery or a Terminal Strip or Post.
That way with the properly sized wire for pwr and grd each component will function at full capacity and not overload the other components you are stealing power from.
If you hookup with taps or over load the fuse panel, the first time you turn on all your components, especially the lights and your engine stalls or sputters you will wish you had separate power for each component.
You might be able to add some smaller components to the main fuse panel but 4 130w lights @ 40+ amps and 2 55w lights @ 9+ amps and you will overload the main box quickly.

Again, this is "in my humble opinion" not from looking at the schematics and determining the full load of the Fuse Panel feed.
When it comes to higher current draw components leave the main fuse panel to running the truck, add a separate Circuit panel or separate fused feed line for the big stuff.

 

Do you guys know a good place to buy switchs and relays online i have been searching for a while and cant seem to find a good place that has everything i need.

 

Im thinking about buying a fuse pannel that holds 6-10 fuses that you power directly form the battery so that im not tied into my stock fuse box. and that will give me a central place to have the wires ran from.

 

I have a Bussman Fuse block with power of of the distribution block, it works great and cleans up the wiring from the battery.

 

Yea i was thinking about getting almost that exact one except i might get an 8 or a 10 just to have plenty of extra circuits. one question did you fasten it down or is it just sitting there?

 

Double sided tape.

 

ahh ok. are the holes in the middle of the fuse block for mounting screws or bolts?

 

yep, there was just no way to bolt it there so tape it was.

 

alright thanks man

 

Check out the Blue Seas Fuse Panels, nice and they are made for Marine Use so a little better material and they have a cover… nice stuff. http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/126

Here are a few places I have used:

http://www.k-four.net/

http://www.delcity.net/navi?action=home

http://www.pedal-2d-metal.com/ - nice switches with labels

http://www.trickcableandswitch.com/mm5/merchant.mvc

http://order.waytekwire.com/cgi-bin/...EBID(S0020):01

http://www.wiringproducts.com/

 

i have looked at the blue sea boxes too but it looks like it would take up quite a bit more room. Do you have all of your accessory fuses and relays under the hood or in the cab? and were would be a good place to bring wires into the cab?

 

Yes and No, I still need to wire up a lot of stuff.
The higher current components like the Aux Lights will have the relays under the hood for sure because I want the power wires to be as short as possible.
The lower powered components like CB and HAM Radios will have one power wire coming in the cab but from underneath the cab or just behind the cab, DRILL HOLE insert sealable thru fitting, one for red and one for blk; maybe a 6 or 8 gauge wire t handle a lot of stuff and it will be fused near the battery, just in case of a short.
I like my grounds all in one place too so there will be a stud near the battery where all of my components will have the ground wires connected, less corrosion to deal with this way.

If you want to run your wires in through the fire wall then there are a number of holes where other things are coming out and you can use these holes to feed your wires in; just don’t open up the grommets too much, keep it tight.

 

Yeah defiantly do it right and clean and the way you want it to first time. I rushed when I did mine and it looks like crap and it really buggy. I replace have to replace switches and it short circuits all the time. I only hooked up 3 relays and 3 switches so I didn't use a fuse block but it looks really messy. I rushed through it and I am pretty unhappy with the setup. Part of the problem is I didn't have everything I needed like fuse holder clips or enough wire. I also didn't have any heat shrink wrap, no soldering, and I electrical taped everything. Thinking back I really f'ed it up actually lol.

 

Yeah thats why i dont want to just jump into this and cobble everything together. i rushed the first time when i wired up my lights and now the wires are to short and i burnt one of them up. so i wont be making that mistake again.