Ok so I shut the truck off and then turned itback on 10 mins later and the compressor started kicking on again then off but not as frequent.. looks like the low side when the compressor is ON is around 22psi.. so I will have to add a bit more to get to around 30psi right?

I added so far about 2 cans of 12oz normal r134a with 3oz of oil. Kinda sucks wasting a can just for the extra 3-5oz of gas...

But the temps did drop to about 70 degrees.

Is it normal for the compressor to kick on and off when at idle? Seems odd to me... it didn't kick off and on NEARLY as much as before but it's still doing it, then for some reason it stop and the compressor just stops coming on so that's why i have to shut the truck off and wait 10 mins?

World of difference though from the 90 degree heat that was coming out compared to 70 degrees now...

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

Success!!!! Now the compressor is constantly running, I think the oil helped and also adding the other bottle until the gauge was at 30psi...

Now the air blows out 59 degrees!!! So much better than the 94 degrees it was blowing out yesterday!! WOW

Question still stands on the center barb..

thanks,
-Nigel

 

What is the current day time temperature where you're at?

Its an auxiliary port. Nothing should come out of it unless you depress the schrader valve in the center. Similar to a valve stem on a tire.

 

Since I was doing it at night I would say the temp was probably 70 degrees out. I filled it to the correct weight and now my AC is COLD!!! Love it.. Sucks I wasted one can trying to do it the half assed way of just topping it off but overall I now undertand the process!

w00t w00t!

Would one normally hook anything up to that.

Also there is some slight liquid in the sight glass... what is the best way of removing it from there? I don't want it drying and then clogging something later?

Thanks for all the help!!

-Nigel

 

You could bump it to 35 psi on the low side (with the compressor running) and probably get a little better cooling.

In shop use they’d typically use a 30 pound cylinder rather than small cans. You would hook up the end of the yellow hose to the cylinder and could connect another hose to this port for the vacuum pump (as long as it has the valve depressor on one side) This way you wouldn’t need to bleed the yellow hose.

I wouldn't worry about it. Its probably just some refrigerant oil.

 

By bumping it to 35 psi wouldn't I then run the risk now of overfilling the system since I put the correct weight in? How does one know what range is best... Would it be better to add it and then keep waiting a little bit and if the temp STARTS to go up then relieve some and vent some of the excess r134a out until the temps lower again?

Thanks again for all this info!!

-Nigel

 

If you look back at the charts I posted, the Normal Suction Pressure or Low Side Pressure chart shows a range based on outside air temperature and humidity. Along the bottom of this chart (horizontal line) you'll see the outside air temp and on the right vertical side you'll see the corresponding pressure range compensated for humidity.

You said the temp was around 70 at night when you filled it. Humidity is typically higher at night. So if the average humidity was 50%, the pressure would be around 30 -35 psi.

I'd recommend checking it during the daytime hours. First check your local weather channel (online) and find the current relative humidity for your area. Check the current outside temp with your thermometer. Then look at the low side chart and find the optimal pressure base on the above information. Warm up your truck and then jump the cycling switch so the system stays on. Set your idle speed to around 1500 RPM and look at your pressure readings (low and high side) and write them down. Check the air outlet temp from the dash vents and write that down. Then reference the charts to determine the optimal pressure.

For example say the outside temp is 80 and the relative humidity is 30%. The corresponding low side pressure would be around 30-35 PSI. If the humidity was 60% it might be as high as 45-50 PSI. The corresponding high side pressure would be about 155 PSI at 30% and 230 PSI at 60%.

Bottom line, get the system to the lowest reading for the temp and humidity given and with your thermometer in the dash vents slowly add a little more, watching the dash temp. If it starts to go up, bleed a little off. If it continues to drop, add a little more, not exceeding the max shown on the chart.

 

Allowing liquid refrigerant to reach a running compressor can cause damage, it is safer to only let gas into the system, You can place the can in warm water to help keep the pressure up in the can has it boils off.
This is the way I have recharged AC systems for years with out any problems.
Also be careful not to over charge the system as this puts unnecessary loads on the compressor.
Mike

 

Back in May when we had some hot days here, I noticed that my 2008 Ranger had little cooling to it and I noticed that the a/c compressor was short cycling. About 3 years ago I also had poor cooling and took it into the dealer who said the condenser had a pin hole leak in it - and replaced the condenser. I thought this time before I took it into the dealer I'd try one of those "do it yourself" recharge kits - paid about $35 bucks for it. It had two small cans of refrigerant in it. I checked my Chiltons manual to see how to do this - and followed the instructions in the kit and after about 15 minutes of re-charging the compressor stopped short cycling and the kit guage read as it was supposed to - and the air was now nice and cold inside the cab! I didn't check before and after temps - but it felt 100% cooler inside! I only used about one can and it's been about 2 months now, but with the a/c on it still feels nice and cool inside the cab!