Edge Fog light plug
#1
11-07-2010
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: St Pete, FL
Posts: 13
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Edge Fog light plug
Had issues with my front right fog light. Turns out one of the wires was rubbing and is completely eaten though.
I cut the remaining wire with some slack to spare so I can work on the other (and then splice both back in later), but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the electrode out so I can put a new wire on it.
Am I better just going to a junk yard and whacking off a new one with enough wire to splice?
I cut the remaining wire with some slack to spare so I can work on the other (and then splice both back in later), but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the electrode out so I can put a new wire on it.
Am I better just going to a junk yard and whacking off a new one with enough wire to splice?
#5
11-08-2010
Best bet, GET ANOTHER CONNECTOR…
Not sure if Auto Zone is the right place but if it works then use it.
Make sure when making the connections, making a good solid joint now will save a lot of time tracing out the circuit later when the lights start to flicker.
Solder all joints not just wrap the wires together and use a good quality Heat Shrink with adhesive inside on all joints just don’t forget to add it before soldering the joint, (strip wire, slide on heat shrink, make connection, solder, TEST, shrink heat shrink until adhesive comes out the end).
Once the connection/circuit has been tested and proven then do the shrinking, good way to save time re-doing the WHOLE thing.
Not sure if Auto Zone is the right place but if it works then use it.
Make sure when making the connections, making a good solid joint now will save a lot of time tracing out the circuit later when the lights start to flicker.
Solder all joints not just wrap the wires together and use a good quality Heat Shrink with adhesive inside on all joints just don’t forget to add it before soldering the joint, (strip wire, slide on heat shrink, make connection, solder, TEST, shrink heat shrink until adhesive comes out the end).
Once the connection/circuit has been tested and proven then do the shrinking, good way to save time re-doing the WHOLE thing.
#6
11-08-2010
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: St Pete, FL
Posts: 13
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I'm knowledgeable enough to wire it all back to gether properly. My only problem is getting to the joint to solder. Will have to take my iron/station out to the truck with an AC inverter unless you know of another plug/connector further back on the harness I can disconnect from and take the harness inside to work on (didn't see anything, hence why I whacked off the connector, making sure to leave enough copper on both sides for a good splice).
#7
11-08-2010
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: St Pete, FL
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GENIUS
It's a "9005 Socket". Looks like PN# 85812. Its about $2.59 here +tax. Its the full connector, contacts, locking tab, about 8" of wire on each side. A bit cheap feeling, but there's an $11 option if I need that.
Now, just to solder it while under the truck.....
It's a "9005 Socket". Looks like PN# 85812. Its about $2.59 here +tax. Its the full connector, contacts, locking tab, about 8" of wire on each side. A bit cheap feeling, but there's an $11 option if I need that.
Now, just to solder it while under the truck.....
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