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Old 03-20-2007
SteveOh's Avatar
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I am: Steven Fitts
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Ft. Campbell Kentucky
Vehicle: 01 Ranger
Posts: 4,585
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Charging A/c?

well i have toreplace a hose and the clutch on my 2001 ranger compressor so what iam going to do is swap compressors and the hose i need off the 93 onto the 01 what do i need to do once this stuff is installed? do i need to pull a vacume on the lines? then charge it up? i have never done a vehicle a/c before and was curious...thanks guys in advance

BTW. iam epa freon certified for type 1 type 2 and type 3 which covers all freons and systems using freon..and i know how to dispose and charge the system....

SPC (P) Fitts, Steven M
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2005 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat 5.4l Triton
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Old 03-21-2007
I am: Earl ?
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Elizabeth City, NC
Vehicle: 2000 Ranger XLT 4x4
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Cliff's notes version:

I think using the 93 compressor is a bad idea.
You will need to pull a vaccum for the hose replacement.
I'm not convinced you need another compressor in the first place.
Need more info on your failure mode.

Yes, you'll need to pull a vaccum prior to charging with refrigerant.

My $ 2.00: (way more than $.02, lol)

Don't put that OLD compressor in your newer truck. Save up for a new or re-man. compressor.

Put a new filter/dryer and orifice tube in.


The 93 compressor has many years of usage. (Was it even an R-134a compressor to start with, or an R-12???) I doubt you'll get a long service life from it. The typical compressor failure involves seizure, or close to it. That generates metal particles which collect in the filter dryer and orifice tube. That also indicates the need to flush those particles out of the system, which requires removing the condensor and evaporator for a thorough flushing with isopropyl alchohol.

Then you need to add the proper amount of refrigerant oil during refrigerant servicing. This is another gotcha that folks overlook, resulting in a new, but seized for lack of oil, compressor.

Failure to account for these factors will render your newly repaired air conditioner inoperable after a sadly short period of use.

In short, this is not your typical DIY job, if not properly equipped and knowledgeable. The fact that you asked this question leads me to believe you may fall into that category, despite your EPA (608?) Refrigerant Recovery certification (which you must admit, was not the most challenging test you've ever taken, now was it? I failed Type III - Chillers, but admit to NO studying prior).

That said, I re-read your post and question whether your compressor even NEEDS replaced. If just the clutch is bad, that is a seperately replaceable sub-component of the compressor. Many competent AC shops can and will replace the clutch assembly on your compressor for far cheaper than you might expect. Or DIY.

THAT brings up whether your clutch is even BAD? The low pressure switch is there to keep the clutch from engaging if the refrigerant level is low. Since you had a bad line, your freon was low, so your clutch would only engage IF you jumper out the low pressure switch wiring to fake it into thinking there is adequate refrigerant (a good trick to remember when adding the refrigerant, BTW). I recommend taking this troubleshooting step, at a minmum.

THAT said, there is also the possibility that YOUR clutch (slipping or not engaging at all?) simply needs shimmed up to get the proper air gap between the clutch. This is also a routine job for an ac shop and a common problem on Fords. Servicing the clutch DOES require a puller to get it off, which you probably could rent or borrow from a parts store.

I'm not trying to discourage you from fixing it, nor am I questioning your mechanical abilities (though it may have sounded that way). But you DID ask for advice and I'm fairly proficient in the air conditioning servicing and repair arts.

Feel free to PM me. I'll even give you my phone number.

These links may be helpful:
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