Well I got a engine rattle starting to appear more lately, not sure if i have a timing chain on the way out or just something loose. When i start up my truck (2003 4.0,5speed4x4) , and the engine is half cold, I will get a chainy sounding rattle. While sitting in the cab it sounds like its towards the rear or driverside of the truck. After the truck is warmed up, and i've been driving , the noise won't be there. I've read about these chains before, but can anyone shed some light?
Maybe you've experienced a similar thing, etc. I can provide a video if needed


Thanks

 

1997 to 2004/5 4.0l SOHC engines had bad timing chain tensioners, there are 3 of them.
They have a spring inside to hold tension on the timing chain until engine starts and then oil pressure should take over to hold chain tight.

Well the tensioners didn't work so well on all these engines, not 100% failure but up above 30% for sure.
When a tensioner got loose the chain started to wear down the guides, and guide would start to break apart and THEN you would hear the rattling.
So by the time you hear the rattle you will need to replace timing chains which means pulling the engine out.

You can get new tensioners now and install the two easier to get at ones now, and hopefully rattle will lessen or go away, not a waste of money because you do need them.


Cold start rattle means the spring in the tensioner is bad and oil hole is probably clogged a bit as well, so the thicker cold oil can't help with pressure, when oil warms up it thins out and you get enough chain tension to stop the rattle.

One tensioner is passenger side toward the rear under exhaust manifold, highest failure rate
Other one is drivers side top front of engine, 2nd highest.

Hard one to get to and the one less likely to fail, is behind timing chain cover on front of engine.

 

I appreciate the input greatly, i'll order up two tensioners and have a go at putting them in. Time to drive the spare truck in the mean time! This looks like the cheapest option for buying the tensioners, would these two be correct?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/97-09-Ford-Ex...VU1Tc3&vxp=mtr

Thanks

 

If you want cheapest the yes.

But................I would go with correct OEM units myself: 01 thru 08 Ranger OEM Ford 4.0L SOHC Timing Chain Tensioner Kit Left & Right | eBay

Or: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mercury...3D182172149589

and: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mercury...3D201243242652

 

I Appreciate it thanks. Couple Questions Ron;
1) Is is " half safe " to drive around in the mean time with the rattle? I got the parts ordered however it will be another week or more before I receive it. My secondary truck isn't ready yet to be driven as a daily, I need to troubleshoot the engine stall still happening with the secondary truck ( Recently found a disconnected vacum line on it )

2) What is the engine oil pressure suppose to be in the 4.0? I am considering installing a engine pre oiler to help keep longevity going and installing a new engine block heater.Would a preoiler help keep the engine lasting?

3) Should i install some gauges onto the truck ( oil pressure,vacum,etc )?

4) If all else fails, is it hard to install new timing chains ? As you have mentioned the engine would have to be pulled, I wouldn't mind tackling it myself if need be, however I have never adjusted or set up timing chains before.

Thanks again

 

Well there is no telling when a part that is making a noise will break, so.........no crystal ball here.

Engine oil pressure should be 10psi per 1,000rpm up to 60psi max
So if idle is 700rpm then you would expect 7psi oil pressure
Anything above 5psi is OK to get oil up to the top of the engine

You have a built-in Pre-oiler, called "Clear Flooded Engine Routine", all fuel injected engines have this.
Turn on the key
Press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down
Turn key to START
Engine should crank but NOT START, fuel injectors should be off

Do this before starting cold engine to pre-oil parts

As soon as you release the gas pedal injectors will start up, even if you are still cranking the engine.

And no it can't get "stuck" with injectors off

I do this every morning on my '94 4.0l, with 400k on it

Your current oil pressure gauge now shows above 6psi or no psi, it is an on/off gauge
Some like to see "real oil pressure" but most of the time gauges are ignored, lol.
And like my wife said after she blew up her engine by driving it without oil or oil pressure......
"If it was THAT important they would have put in a BELL or BUZZER, not just a stupid gauge or light."
Can't argue with that logic............I dare you, lol.

She had hit some road debris and it punched a hole in oil pan, so wasn't neglect, just lack of specific knowledge.

Oil pressure gauge is a good add-on.

You can rent the Ford Timing chain setup kit from most Tool Rental places or auto part stores, not expensive, like $15-$25
It is basically just wrench work, hardest part is reinstalling the engine and getting all the vacuum hoses hooked back up, lol.
Take LOTS AND LOTS of pictures, they are free
And use labels

 

Hi Ron, I appreciate the input highly. That is cool! Didn't know there was a method for precranking. Tried this earlier, my main truck rattled but not nearly as bad. Today i parked the truck until I get the parts in the mail (tensioners).

Had some time earlier, picked at the plow truck and was able to fix some things, however i'd like to get your opinion on something.
Fixed the 4wd shifter motor, works fine now ( basically did a poor mans overhaul on the electric motor ).

Now onto my question, The plow truck has a engine stall still. You can drive it up the road, runs great, shifts great, etc. Eventually if you come to a complete stop the engine will shut off. Only happens when the engine is at Idle. Is there a certain valve that acutates when the engine goes to idle? Im thinking this could be a issue.
Additionally while looking around in the engine bay, I came across a hose that was not connected and poked out of the way. I also noticed that there was a " Blank " or dead point installed where I believe the hose is suppose to go. I took pics to explain this better. What do you think would be the reason someone would blank off this port? As well how can I get rid of this engine stall at idle? Thanks! I'm learning a lot with you.
In the last pic you can see the " homemade " blank that I found.

 

What engine is that?

Yes, all fuel injected engines use an Air Valve to set idle levels
Ford Calls theirs an IAC(idle air control) Valve
It is located on the throttle body where there is an air passage that can by-pass the throttle plate.
The valve is controlled by a 12volt motor/solenoid, 2 wire connector.
The computer controls the voltage at the IAC valve so can open it a little or alot and close it a little or alot.

To tell if IAC valve is working, just start cold engine WITHOUT touching the gas pedal
Engine should start and RPMs should surge up to 1,500+
Then drop to about 1,100-1,200rpm.'
Computer opens IAC valve all the way when you turn on the key, thats it's position for start up, full open
After engine starts, computer closes IAC valve a bit to set cold engine idle.
Then as engine warms up RPMs will drop to Warm engine idle, 650 manual trans, 750 automatic.

Engine stalling when coming to a stop could be sticking IAC Valve, they can be cleaned, easier than cleaning up that shift motor.

 

Both of my trucks are 4.0liters.main one is 03 5 speed 4.0. The one in the picture that has the engine stall is 04 5 speed 4.0( 2wd converted to 4wd

 

Additionally, found a new check engine code that popped up.. Maybe this is the source of the stalling issue.

P0720 ;
Still have P0446 Additionally.

I looked up P0720, some of the symptoms include engine stalling. You've mentioned before that I do not have anything installed in my Speed sensor section.
In my previous thread you mentioned how I should install a Universal Speedometer Signal Interface.You mentioned how the Interface is needed to correct the PCM to read " True Speed ", Is there a simple way to do this without the Signal Interface? As in a way to splice it together without using a interface?Thanks.

 

yes 7xx is transmission code, 720 is lack of speed signal at computer

Computer is setup to keep idle high when speed is above 5MPH, an emissions thing, then to drop the idle to "normal" under 5MPH.
So there is a minor issue with not having speed signal at computer with manual transmission, with automatics it is a bigger deal because of shift control.

But ultimately the computer should not let RPMs fall below 600 in any situation, so first check would be IAC valve since that is computers only way to control idle.
Computer gets RPM from Crank sensor so unrelated to speed sensor.

Don't recall other thread but Ford electronic speed signal for end user devices like speedometer and computer is 8,000 pulses per minute(PPM).
Transmission and transfer case speed sensors used 8,000PPM, rear axle sensors did not.
BUT..........some of the newer, 2001 and up, transmission/transfercase sensors were not 8,000PPM so this signal ran directly to the computer, which was programmed for tire size and rear axle ratio and computer was the signal interface for true speed, it changed the speed signal back to 8,000PPM and sent it out to speedometer and cruise, and used it itself for true speed.

Ford use 4 wheel ABS unit for true speed signal interface on some years, not Rear wheel only ABS units, only 4WABS
And used the GEM module from 1998 to 2000, then computer from 2001 and up
So if you don't have one of these then yes, you need a signal interface like the dakota digital unit

 

Hey Ron ,
went ahead and cleaned the IAC today. Easy job. After cleaning it , I took the truck for a spin and it still stalls. Although it "seems " not as often , it still is doing the same. Only time it stalls it when I'm slowing down to a stop , or slowing down going downhill. It's a manual tranny , if I keep the Rpms up , it's fine. However as soon as I slow down I literally watch the rpm creep from about 1500 to 500 or less then stalls. Sometimes when she's able to hold her idle it seems like it's idling right around 750 Rpms.

IAC cleaned ,
what next ?
Thanks

 

Just a update on the original problem. Changed out the Rear tensioner, it corrected the rattle problem. Additionally, changing out the one on the front by the thermostat as well just while i am at it.

 

Very disappointed with Ford engineering on replacing the front tensioner. I took off the throttle body housing , air intake , removed a few hoses. However can't remove the thermostat housing so I can't get access to the tensioner. Had one bolt snap off when trying to back it loose , and the one in the rear for the thermostat housing I can't get off as when I get a universal on it it tries to strip... No longer a happy camper