Originally Posted by fourliter dan
i belive any IFS toyota box will work (86-94) pickup or runner.
i think there is a guy on here doing an sas at school as we speek and want to say a company made adapters for the lines... think it was psc. however most napa stores can make lines as well. you would need to find both ends and have them do FORD on pump side and TOYOTA on box side.
ok first off, i dont agree on the year yota boxes, if you really look into it there are differences in those years, some stronger some weaker. the strongest yota box was on the 4 runner from 90-94. I personally bought one from a 92 4 runner 4x4.
secondly, napa does not sell the fittings needed to mount it to a toyota box. the toyota box is a metric thread pattern, one is a 16mm and one is a 17mm. you will find the 16mm adapters at special hydraulic shops or maybe napa but you wont find a 17mm. The 17mm adapter is a special one off that PSC has made for toyota boxes. in my thread i tell you how to order one.
Originally Posted by 08rangerdan
ok so the lines can be done easy enough, napa sounds like a great spot to get me what i need. now how about after its hooked up and primed. how does the box react in the truck? when the pump is running will the box self center to a point? and will it automatically give equal turn radius outputs, (proportinal left and right)? or is there other adjustments that are made other then the pitman arm position.?
napa would be great for crimping on the -6an fitting you need, but you will still need to buy the adapters from PSC.
the yota box will have equal turns side to side. you need to buy the pitman arm from allprooffroad.com that way you can drill and taper it out to whatever tre or heim size you use.
the toyota box output shaft is splined equally all the way around so if it needs tweaked off center a bit you can easily do so. same with the input shaft. neither shaft is keyed. which is great.
the steering will react a bit slow and different than the ranger rack but it isnt bad. most of your steering issues will be from your drag link and panhard setup as well as caster/camber and toe, not because of the steering box.
also brace that frame up well, the box will twist the frame so it is wise to plate it well and add a cross member or two.
as for return to center, that all has to do with caster, camber, and toe. Not the box, the intermediate steering shaft will effect it some but as long as you design that as I mentioned in my thread you will be fine. if the intermediate shaft is not centered and it binds that will ruin the entire steering experience all by itself.
anymore questions let me know. i have debugged my steering a 100 times over, and for what my truck is it steers pretty well.
2003 Ford Ranger Lincoln Powered 5.4L DOHC, 42s, COs, D60s, 203/205, 4points, caged, full hydro, 3link front and 4 link rear.
1998 f150 bone stock baby hauler...