Downgrade alternator
#1
Downgrade alternator
I upgraded my alt. a few years back to a 130amp from the factory original due to some extra accessories i had. I removed all the accessories and am back to stock. Should i go back to a stock alternator or can I stick with the 130 without causing any issues with the charging system. I'm getting a terrible squeelling noise now coming from either the alt or the idler pulley so I'm curious to see if this could cause a problem.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#4
Thanks! Now if i could figure out the darn squeal. I think I have it narrowed down to the idler pulley or the tensioner. Tensioner was just replaced a few months ago and the idler pulley I can rock it back and forth a bit with my hand and it looks like it wobbles as it is running. Only squeals from start up till it warms up and the rpm's get a bit higher. Above 40mph it does not squeal, below that it will until it warms up completely. Sounds a bit like a mouse squeeking. I'll try a pulley and a gatorback belt.
#6
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#10
Mine looks a bit worse then that, so i'm guessing it is time to change. Stuck working now Friday so I have to wait till Saturday now. Just wish I could find a Gatorback before then.
#12
#18
I changed out the idler pulley and slapped a new belt on it, not much change. Pulley was bad but now without the idler making the noise i can here coming directly from the alternator. It is still kicking out the correct voltage it just makes a lot of noise. Sprayed a bit of dressing on it and no change. Not as bad as before but that is most likely cause I took care of the idler issue. Can the alt. freeze up and shred the belt to pieces? Is this an alternator issue or can I change the alternator pulley. Guesses?
Now for everyone's opinion. When I replace the alternator should I stick with the 130amp or go back to original since i have no more accessories and don't need the extra power. When I installed the alternator I did do the Big 3 wiring mod with the larger gauge wire and battery terminals.
On a side note I popped in some silverstar back-up lights, not a huge difference but noticeable. I don't really need my reverse lights that I uninstalled awhile back. Now I'm just looking for silverstar 922's for my cargo lamp.
Now for everyone's opinion. When I replace the alternator should I stick with the 130amp or go back to original since i have no more accessories and don't need the extra power. When I installed the alternator I did do the Big 3 wiring mod with the larger gauge wire and battery terminals.
On a side note I popped in some silverstar back-up lights, not a huge difference but noticeable. I don't really need my reverse lights that I uninstalled awhile back. Now I'm just looking for silverstar 922's for my cargo lamp.
Last edited by jtfoxman; 09-12-2010 at 08:45 PM.
#19
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
"I would keep the 130 amp alternator…” !
Yes the alternator bearings can go bad and break and seize up causing horrific damage but I have never seen one do that, usually the bearing noise will get you first.
Take a long Screwdriver, long now, and put the blade on the rear and/or toward the front of the alternator, if you can hear a steady droning noise then usually the bearings in the alternator are OK. Also try this on the water-pump, they usually make a squeaking noise when they start to go bad.
When you replaced the Idler Pulley did you replace the whole tensioner assy too ?
I am not sure but maybe the tensioner is not keeping things as tight as they need to be and in turn you are still getting belt squeal ?
Just me thinking out loud again.
ltr
Yes the alternator bearings can go bad and break and seize up causing horrific damage but I have never seen one do that, usually the bearing noise will get you first.
Take a long Screwdriver, long now, and put the blade on the rear and/or toward the front of the alternator, if you can hear a steady droning noise then usually the bearings in the alternator are OK. Also try this on the water-pump, they usually make a squeaking noise when they start to go bad.
When you replaced the Idler Pulley did you replace the whole tensioner assy too ?
I am not sure but maybe the tensioner is not keeping things as tight as they need to be and in turn you are still getting belt squeal ?
Just me thinking out loud again.
ltr
#20
#21
I checked this morning, water pump sounds good and no pulley play. Alternator makes the droning noise and you can hear go aound every single time, no real change in the sound. Voltage stays even with everything turned on. Now I'm kinda leaning towards the tensioner. I noticed it is moving but I just replaced it a few months ago. I'm at a lost and don't wan to just throw money at it.
#22
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
I checked this morning, water pump sounds good and no pulley play. Alternator makes the droning noise and you can hear go aound every single time, no real change in the sound. Voltage stays even with everything turned on. Now I'm kinda leaning towards the tensioner. I noticed it is moving but I just replaced it a few months ago. I'm at a lost and don't wan to just throw money at it.
If steady then there is a pump/pulley/etc problem if only when the engine revs then it has to be a belt or maybe the tensioner.
sometimes the pulleys can get s coating on them when slipping before belt replacement and cause slipping after the new belt is installed; belt dressing is the only way to fix short of cleaning something that is hard to see.
#23
#24
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Sounds like a belt problem… you need a gatorback belt by goodyear I think.
Mine used to squeal vey morning, sometimes so loud my next door neighbor would look out to see hat’s up. I replace the belt twice once with a local auto store brand second time with a Gatorback and that did it for me; not to say it is your problem but the belt can be a b!th too.
Can you apply the Screwdriver Test to the Tensioner without making contact with the belt ?
ltr
Mine used to squeal vey morning, sometimes so loud my next door neighbor would look out to see hat’s up. I replace the belt twice once with a local auto store brand second time with a Gatorback and that did it for me; not to say it is your problem but the belt can be a b!th too.
Can you apply the Screwdriver Test to the Tensioner without making contact with the belt ?
ltr
#25
Not very safe to do the test to the tensioner, I'll either hit the belt or the fan. I'm leaning towards the tensioner. I had it replaced when I got it inspected since it was only a few bucks so I might take it back since it has a 6 month warranty. If they find nothing else wrong with it I guess I'll try the gator. I just spent $30 on a belt so I would like to avoid that if possible. I'll try to get it back to the shop before the end of the week.