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Old 05-22-2008
lifted97ranger's Avatar
I am: Maurice Jones Jr.
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Vehicle: 1997 Ford Ranger STX/XLT
Posts: 1
Total Props: 0
Make sure you use some kind of isolator or your second battery will also leave you stranded.
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Old 06-19-2008
Step Over the Edge's Avatar
I am: Adam Thomas
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Vehicle: 2004 Blue Ford Ranger Edge Stepside
Posts: 324
Total Props: 0
Gonna post any finished pics...?
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Old 06-21-2008
hntnnut's Avatar
Thread Starter

I am: Richard Cook
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Lone Pine, CA
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Ranger
Posts: 21
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Sorry kinda had to put the project on hold due to a tranny rebuild and new clutch, but I have managed to finish the battery tray. Some fender trimming was needed and had to drill out the orignal tray due to hight restrictions. I still need to make the battery cables longer and decide how I want to tie in both batteries. Heres a couple more pics.


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Old 09-05-2008
DetroitStyle's Avatar
I am: Mike M
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St Clair Shores
Vehicle: 1998 Ford Ranger
Posts: 32
Total Props: 0
Any updates on this? :)
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Old 09-28-2008
hntnnut's Avatar
Thread Starter

I am: Richard Cook
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Lone Pine, CA
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Ranger
Posts: 21
Total Props: 0
Sorry Deer season kinda got in the way of the project but as of now its finished.

This is the wiring diagram I drew up for my set-up.

Heres the switch set-up. I stayed with something similar
to the Painless system in form and function.
To keep both lights from lighting up when the switch
was flipped I used a pair of diodes from Radio shack.
The swich is a DPDT on-off-on 6 pin switch (only 4 pins used).

after install

inner workings. For my pannel I used a scrap piece of .062 steel
and secured it with a leftover tube of permetex.

I decided that I wanted a couple of fuse blocks,
the one in the back is hot with the ignition on
(power coming from a C.D. silonoid triggered by the ignition),
and the one in front is hot at all times
(wired directly to the batteries)

The silonoid on the left is a continuous duty 200 amp.
used to conect the two batteries together.
The one on the right is what switches power
to the key-on fuse block

another view

position 1 (center) on the switch is off and only
battery 1 is used.

Position 2 (green) both batteries connected and
charging only when the ignition is on.

Position 3 (red) both batteries are conected together
at all times reguardless of key position.
This position would be used to jumpstart your self.

So far all is working well and there are no glitches
with the system.

I don't have part numbers at hand but will get a list
together tuesday when I get back to work.

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Old 09-28-2008
Jp7's Avatar
Jp7 Jp7 is offline
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I am: Faster than you ...
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: My LED lab or on the dyno
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Posts: 2,970
Total Props: 6
You can do what I did, and replace your stock battery with a motorcycle battery 1/3 of the size! (yes I welded up my own tray for it)

Just playing...
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