efan question (I know, its valid though)
#1
efan question (I know, its valid though)
I have a question about an proform efan I just bought, they want me to tap a high output 12v power and low amp draw 12v power, ground it and also for a manual switch they have a connection but you need to supply the swith with power and ground for the switch itself. What power are they talking about, the power on the fan I allready tapped (splice into it) or from somwewhere else? Assuming its gonna be low amp source. Can anyone make sense of this?
Here is the instructions, the bottom right is the switch instructions, not using a illuminated I don't think though.
Here is the instructions, the bottom right is the switch instructions, not using a illuminated I don't think though.
#2
i had that same fan... i just used the battery pos side, and then you need to use your ignition fuse
you HAVE to use the ignition fuse under the hood... this is the reason i hated this fan because if that blows your ignition fuse for w/e reason, your screwed so get some extras just in case... also its loud lol...
you HAVE to use the ignition fuse under the hood... this is the reason i hated this fan because if that blows your ignition fuse for w/e reason, your screwed so get some extras just in case... also its loud lol...
#3
The high power connection is for the fan motor, the low power connection for the controller and/or relay.
You MUST, MUST, MUST fuse the high power connection close to the battery. DO NOT run a long wire from the battery to a fuse near the fan.
The low power connection is often just any convenient switched power you have in the engine compartment. I believe I used my cruise control servo for that.
I no longer need that low power connection because my new homemade controller resides in the cab and gets it's control power from there -- only fan motor power comes right off the battery.
If you add a fuse to the low power line that is less (usually just 1 amp or so) than whatever low power circuit fuse you tapped, your fan fuse will blow on a controller fault WITHOUT blowing the fuse off whatever ignition switched circuit you tapped.
For instance, if the circuit you tapped has a 10 amp fuse, and you add a 2 amp fuse going to your fan controller, then most likely the 2 amp fuse will fail on a fault and whatever circuit you tapped into will be unaffected.
You MUST, MUST, MUST fuse the high power connection close to the battery. DO NOT run a long wire from the battery to a fuse near the fan.
The low power connection is often just any convenient switched power you have in the engine compartment. I believe I used my cruise control servo for that.
I no longer need that low power connection because my new homemade controller resides in the cab and gets it's control power from there -- only fan motor power comes right off the battery.
If you add a fuse to the low power line that is less (usually just 1 amp or so) than whatever low power circuit fuse you tapped, your fan fuse will blow on a controller fault WITHOUT blowing the fuse off whatever ignition switched circuit you tapped.
For instance, if the circuit you tapped has a 10 amp fuse, and you add a 2 amp fuse going to your fan controller, then most likely the 2 amp fuse will fail on a fault and whatever circuit you tapped into will be unaffected.
#7
Originally Posted by 4X2XLT
i had that same fan... i just used the battery pos side, and then you need to use your ignition fuse
you HAVE to use the ignition fuse under the hood... this is the reason i hated this fan because if that blows your ignition fuse for w/e reason, your screwed so get some extras just in case... also its loud lol...
you HAVE to use the ignition fuse under the hood... this is the reason i hated this fan because if that blows your ignition fuse for w/e reason, your screwed so get some extras just in case... also its loud lol...
#8
#9
Got the fan and pulleys hooked up now, the pulleys weren't that bad (tight, rough spots and a lot of contorting your body to get things done), then the fan......... man that was not fun, bolting it on was easy, running all those damn wires sucked, took forever, and I still haven't wired the manual switch (coming down with strep I think), I'm aching all over and got school work still.
Anyway, if it works its worth it for sure......... (have to do school work first before I go and test, sucks I know)
Anyway, if it works its worth it for sure......... (have to do school work first before I go and test, sucks I know)
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