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Old 01-04-2014
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I am: Bob Ch.
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: MTL,QC
Vehicle: 2010 Ford Ranger
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 16
Total Props: 0
A weak 105 amp.
Should be the same mounting but if someone can give me a picture of their sohc engine just to check if older Alternator would fit I will be happy :)
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Old 01-04-2014
6.2 6.2 is offline
I am: Jar Rat
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Canada
Vehicle: 2006
Posts: 516
Total Props: 0
No one makes an alternator that swaps into 2010+ trucks to my knowledge.
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Old 08-08-2014
I am: Mark Stein
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Vehicle: 2005 Ford FX4 LVL2
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 1
Total Props: 0

I have been chasing the same problem with my 05 FX4.

During cold weather (-20)f, my truck will not heat up. Tried the cardboard in front of the radiator with no noticeable change.

Tried OEM thermostat and three other aftermarket brands. Before I install them I put them in a pan with water and watch opening and temps. They open at the rated temp.

I have monitored engine temp with my Snap-on Soleus scanner, driving at hwy speeds 60-70 mph I can watch the temp rise in a linear temp rise until it hits 170, then you can see the stat open in the graph.

The last stat I installed, I watched the scanner and felt the upper radiator hose getting warm at the upper radiator hose @ the radiator when the scanner read 170. I also used a infrared temp gun to verify the temps.

I would like to stay warm this winter. Any help or suggestions will be appreciated.

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Old 08-08-2014
I am: Robert Matzinger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Taylor, Michigan
Vehicle: 2008 FS4 Ranger
Posts: 96
Total Props: 0
I had a similar problem last winter in my 08 FX4. What surprised me was when I blocked off about 30% of my radiator, in temps below 30 degrees, it made almost no difference at all. Only when we got a rare day about 40 degrees, did I start getting any real heat.

As soon as it got above 30 or so on a clear day, when I had a chance, I installed a new thermostat (from NAPA), and has been well after that.
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Old 08-12-2014
iTrader: (2)
I am: Kevin
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Lake Mary, Florida
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Ranger
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 3.0
Posts: 348
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Cool, uh, I mean warm! I read through this entire post waiting to see what the outcome was. A simple replacement of a thermostat.

However, the outside temps have warmed a bit, so are you sure the cabin temps are warmer due to the thermostat replacement?

As to the e-fan mod, I did that with my 2000 3.0 Ranger. I have the extreem opposite of you apparently; in Florida, we are into our usual "Africa hot" summers, so my A/C was not cooling as it should. A quick A/C check at the local garage showed it low on freon (long story; ended up replacing the A/C compressor, dryer (twice), and the evaporator for leaks). During this repair, the fan clutch was also replaced; at 213K miles, I'll guess it was overdue! When the new one was installed, the "roar" drove me nuts!
Since all the new trucks and cars now use e-fans, I went with the Mark VIII/Taurus fan setup. The key to this e-fan is the controller; buy a good one! There are cheap controllers out there, and this is when most folks who do an e-fan conversion get bit, then report back that an e-fan conversion is not worth it. If you buy a good controller (one with a 30 to 40 amp relay for the second speed), you'll be happy, and the used fan will run for years. I currently have a Mark VIII 2 speed fan (Taurus is simular) that I had for 2 years in a 2005 Ford F-150, and now that same used fan is in my Ranger. You can buy and easily replace the 2 speed electric moter for about 60 to 75 bucks if/when the motor burns out from your auto store or Jegs/Summit, as these e-fan 2 speed fans are very popular.

One other key factor is a temperature probe; stay away from the temp probes that are inserted into the radiator fins; these can seperate the blades from the tubes, making a small portion of the radiator a "dead" spot. get a probe that attaches under an intake manifold bolt. these are best. The better e-fan controllers come with these.
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Old 08-15-2014
cheese_man's Avatar
iTrader: (1)
I am: david fowler
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: arthur
Vehicle: 2013 transit
Drive Type: 4x2
Engine: 2.0
Posts: 2,012
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you need the 210/215 degree thermostat for cold weather

simply blocking off the radiator is not the way to go

factory thermostats are 180/185 degree stats

if you have a inclined driveway / parking lot , park your vehicle nose up ,

( with the engine cold ) remove the rad cap turn on heater to low setting , start the engine and let it idle for at 30 minutes.

parking on a incline NOSE UP will aid in air being bled out of the cooling system

( i always use a turkey baster to draw out excessive coolant from the fill nozzle )

cooling systems over time will allow air to enter regardless of the season

that is why 210/215 degree thermostats were developed ,, for deep cold

and always plug your block heater in , your engine will thank-you
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