HO alternator
#27
#28
Oh and just to bump my thread, in case anybody was wondering what happens when you don't have your alternator hooked up... BAD THINGS. haha ask me how I know.... ok you got me. I was leaving to go to Josh's to work on our bumpers, about 40 miles. So after a while, my radio flicks off and on, then off. hm I think, what is this black magic.
So then my ABS light comes on. I had been hjaving brake trouble anyway so I just assumed thats why... THEN my airbag light came on.... then my gas light came on and the gauge went to zero!
I made it to my exit, but once I got off and had stopped at a light, it barely moved then died. I was able to figure out pretty quick I left my alternator unplugged. So everything was totally dead, but luckily some dude in a f150 stopped by and helped me out... all is well now. boy did I feel like a dummy. I can't head over to Josh's without my truck having some sort of issue... I'll probably be picking up some recovery supplies this week.
So then my ABS light comes on. I had been hjaving brake trouble anyway so I just assumed thats why... THEN my airbag light came on.... then my gas light came on and the gauge went to zero!
I made it to my exit, but once I got off and had stopped at a light, it barely moved then died. I was able to figure out pretty quick I left my alternator unplugged. So everything was totally dead, but luckily some dude in a f150 stopped by and helped me out... all is well now. boy did I feel like a dummy. I can't head over to Josh's without my truck having some sort of issue... I'll probably be picking up some recovery supplies this week.
#32
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Hey, back at ya !
First, my ’03 is the same connector and wires.
Looking at my 2003 FMC Wiring Book, the wht/blk or (white/black for those that do not like short versions of words) is the exciter wire as thought; it runs from the internal regulator to the stator connector.
It loops back in the harness, so if you wanted you could open the harness a few inches and both wht/blk wires, at the connector, should be the same wire in the harness.
That’s all folks…
Looks like the new alternator can excite itself and doesn’t need that wire.
First, my ’03 is the same connector and wires.
Looking at my 2003 FMC Wiring Book, the wht/blk or (white/black for those that do not like short versions of words) is the exciter wire as thought; it runs from the internal regulator to the stator connector.
It loops back in the harness, so if you wanted you could open the harness a few inches and both wht/blk wires, at the connector, should be the same wire in the harness.
That’s all folks…
Looks like the new alternator can excite itself and doesn’t need that wire.
#36
#37
Ok since it's a new page let me reiterate the issue. Alternator hits valve cover accessories.
See here, alternator all the way up against valve cover shenanigans.
See here the OEM alternator has a smaller housing than the new DC power.
See here, the hard vacuum line it hits, and the forward protruding oil filler.
Can anyone else with a 4.0 SOHC take a look and see if they have a valve cover with the oil cap in a different place? Does anyone know if I can just get a different valve cover, then reroute the hard line using a softline or something?
Pics of any random engine bays would be sweet, to see various years, preferably 4.0, would be good to see a 3.0 as well though.
This alternator WAS purchased for an 04 3.0 originally, so a pic of that equivalent would be great.
See here, alternator all the way up against valve cover shenanigans.
See here the OEM alternator has a smaller housing than the new DC power.
See here, the hard vacuum line it hits, and the forward protruding oil filler.
Can anyone else with a 4.0 SOHC take a look and see if they have a valve cover with the oil cap in a different place? Does anyone know if I can just get a different valve cover, then reroute the hard line using a softline or something?
Pics of any random engine bays would be sweet, to see various years, preferably 4.0, would be good to see a 3.0 as well though.
This alternator WAS purchased for an 04 3.0 originally, so a pic of that equivalent would be great.
Last edited by SteelDirigible; 06-17-2012 at 07:33 PM.
#39
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Wow, that $ucks, man.
Is your engine a overhead cam ?
Maybe there is a difference in the OHC and the std engine ?
That was a great deal on that alternator, it probably would not have fit mine either.
I will look under the hood after I come back from the VA today and see if the 3.0 has the same problem.
ltr
Is your engine a overhead cam ?
Maybe there is a difference in the OHC and the std engine ?
That was a great deal on that alternator, it probably would not have fit mine either.
I will look under the hood after I come back from the VA today and see if the 3.0 has the same problem.
ltr
#43
Aight so I bought the alternator from Jp7. Maybe he'll chime in but I had a quick question on the wiring... The alternator came with an adaptor harness to plug into the ford harness now, but the harness only has 2 wires, a green/red and a yellow/white wire. The factory plug has a white/black wire in the middle pin, as well as a second connector, also white/black. what is this for, is it needed, how can I wire it into the new alternator? The middle pin is obvious, but is it needed, or is that something just the factory alternator uses?
See pics
New alternator/harness
Factory plug view
See pics
New alternator/harness
Factory plug view
But the white (with a black stripe?) wire is just a jumper for the regulator. I questioned it as well....even dug up my old spare harness and peeled back the loom and tape traced it back. It's just a jumper. Now is it required or not? I'm up in the air on that one.
#44
Ok since it's a new page let me reiterate the issue. Alternator hits valve cover accessories.
See here, alternator all the way up against valve cover shenanigans.
See here the OEM alternator has a smaller housing than the new DC power.
See here, the hard vacuum line it hits, and the forward protruding oil filler.
Can anyone else with a 4.0 SOHC take a look and see if they have a valve cover with the oil cap in a different place? Does anyone know if I can just get a different valve cover, then reroute the hard line using a softline or something?
Pics of any random engine bays would be sweet, to see various years, preferably 4.0, would be good to see a 3.0 as well though.
This alternator WAS purchased for an 04 3.0 originally, so a pic of that equivalent would be great.
See here, alternator all the way up against valve cover shenanigans.
See here the OEM alternator has a smaller housing than the new DC power.
See here, the hard vacuum line it hits, and the forward protruding oil filler.
Can anyone else with a 4.0 SOHC take a look and see if they have a valve cover with the oil cap in a different place? Does anyone know if I can just get a different valve cover, then reroute the hard line using a softline or something?
Pics of any random engine bays would be sweet, to see various years, preferably 4.0, would be good to see a 3.0 as well though.
This alternator WAS purchased for an 04 3.0 originally, so a pic of that equivalent would be great.
Would changing the height of the alternator out from it's mounting perches help? If so, try spacing the alternator using nuts that fit loosely over the bolts. You may have to change your belt size to something a very small bit longer though. This is all assuming your bolts have enough meat threading into the mounting bracket.
All 4.0L SOHC Rangers have that vac line in that location as well as the same fill. Earlier model valve covers (Expo w/ long engine cover) are aluminum. 04+ 4.0's have a slightly different vent tube from the cover to the intake tube.
#45
If all else fails grab....
...and give it a few whacks!
I'm kinda thinking the same thing about raising the alternator off the mounts, it might give enough clearance to slide in. Downsides would be you'd need longer bolts & a bunch of flat washers or something to fill in the gap... then there's the problem of a longer belt.
Have you or can you remove that black presumably plastic panel to see what's under there? If it's just a trim cover that serves no purpose, you might be able to do away with it & see how much room it gives you.
...and give it a few whacks!
I'm kinda thinking the same thing about raising the alternator off the mounts, it might give enough clearance to slide in. Downsides would be you'd need longer bolts & a bunch of flat washers or something to fill in the gap... then there's the problem of a longer belt.
Have you or can you remove that black presumably plastic panel to see what's under there? If it's just a trim cover that serves no purpose, you might be able to do away with it & see how much room it gives you.
#46
not bad suggestions, but I don't think they will work. It is hitting on the fill tube, and I'm afraid I'd have to bring out all the way past it to make it work, and that's just too much space.
The black piece is plastic but there are some electronics immediately behind I don't really want mashed up to the valev cover.
And the hammer... well, it's plastic so I'd really just smash it to bits. which might make me feel better but overall wouldn't be too great...
The black piece is plastic but there are some electronics immediately behind I don't really want mashed up to the valev cover.
And the hammer... well, it's plastic so I'd really just smash it to bits. which might make me feel better but overall wouldn't be too great...
#47
Got a quote on a Singer Alternator for my truck. He says it is the same size as OEM so it should fit. 230A max, and looks like it'll be powdercoated blue as well. More than I wanted to spend, but once I had a high output alternator in my hands, I just had to get one on my truck. This thing should be pretty sick.
#48
I decided to bite the bullet on the Singer Alternator, he said he had ford blue and would be getting royal blue in the next week or so, and I opted for the Royal Blue, I think it will go with my truck better, though Ford blue would have been cool.
He says it is the same as OEM size so it will fit, direct plug n play, all that, and comes with an overdrive pulley to get the rpms up on it too. Lead time with powdercoat is 2-3 weeks because the new blue isn't in, but he says he has most of the actual components in stock.
He says it is the same as OEM size so it will fit, direct plug n play, all that, and comes with an overdrive pulley to get the rpms up on it too. Lead time with powdercoat is 2-3 weeks because the new blue isn't in, but he says he has most of the actual components in stock.
#49
Got a quote on a Singer Alternator for my truck. He says it is the same size as OEM so it should fit. 230A max, and looks like it'll be powdercoated blue as well. More than I wanted to spend, but once I had a high output alternator in my hands, I just had to get one on my truck. This thing should be pretty sick.
I decided to bite the bullet on the Singer Alternator, he said he had ford blue and would be getting royal blue in the next week or so, and I opted for the Royal Blue, I think it will go with my truck better, though Ford blue would have been cool.
He says it is the same as OEM size so it will fit, direct plug n play, all that, and comes with an overdrive pulley to get the rpms up on it too. Lead time with powdercoat is 2-3 weeks because the new blue isn't in, but he says he has most of the actual components in stock.
He says it is the same as OEM size so it will fit, direct plug n play, all that, and comes with an overdrive pulley to get the rpms up on it too. Lead time with powdercoat is 2-3 weeks because the new blue isn't in, but he says he has most of the actual components in stock.
(personal opinion alert!). Why even bother with some special powder coating?
#50
go big or go home. haha. I got some good overtime this week anyway.
There isn't much info on the website, but here it is.
www.singeralternators.com
I'm sure there are plenty of people wondering, why, why this, and why that. Well, as they say, it's my money and my truck. I understand powdercoating an alternator can seem a little extravagant, but I figured I might as well, just cause it's "neat". I have read good things about his alternators from searching the web, I've had quite a bit of contact with him, and I decided to give him a try.
There isn't much info on the website, but here it is.
www.singeralternators.com
I'm sure there are plenty of people wondering, why, why this, and why that. Well, as they say, it's my money and my truck. I understand powdercoating an alternator can seem a little extravagant, but I figured I might as well, just cause it's "neat". I have read good things about his alternators from searching the web, I've had quite a bit of contact with him, and I decided to give him a try.
Hello Mike
The upgraded unit that I offer for your vehicle is a 230A. This alternator is a direct bolt on design for your vehicle and would be plug and play (the factory plug would go into it like the OEM unit) I include my overdrive pulley to boost the idle output (this will spin the alternator faster at low RPMS to boost idle output by around 30 to 40A more. The total price on this unit shipped w/ my lifetime warranty on labor is 389.
All units come w/ a lifetime warranty that covers any labor and return shipping (just not parts) You can add a powdercoating option on any order for an additional 40 dollars.
-mike
The upgraded unit that I offer for your vehicle is a 230A. This alternator is a direct bolt on design for your vehicle and would be plug and play (the factory plug would go into it like the OEM unit) I include my overdrive pulley to boost the idle output (this will spin the alternator faster at low RPMS to boost idle output by around 30 to 40A more. The total price on this unit shipped w/ my lifetime warranty on labor is 389.
All units come w/ a lifetime warranty that covers any labor and return shipping (just not parts) You can add a powdercoating option on any order for an additional 40 dollars.
-mike
No problem Mike
The unit that I mentioned to you is actually the same depth as your factory alternator so it will bolt on for you without any clearance issues. I can invoice you email through paypal if you have an account anytime you like if you wanted to place the order.
-Mike
The unit that I mentioned to you is actually the same depth as your factory alternator so it will bolt on for you without any clearance issues. I can invoice you email through paypal if you have an account anytime you like if you wanted to place the order.
-Mike
No problem Mike
Yes you are correct. I actually carry a ford blue and I have a royal blue on the way as well.
Your choice
-mike
Yes you are correct. I actually carry a ford blue and I have a royal blue on the way as well.
Your choice
-mike
Thanks Mike
I will get things rolling here for you. I am expecting the new color in probably in a week or so. The build time with powdercoat should be a 2-3 week estimation for me since I stock most of the parts already. Feel free to check in with me at any time.
-mike
I will get things rolling here for you. I am expecting the new color in probably in a week or so. The build time with powdercoat should be a 2-3 week estimation for me since I stock most of the parts already. Feel free to check in with me at any time.
-mike