seafoam
#5
I use to use that stuff... its great and inexpensive.... but if you really want to get something that works better and it hurts to say this but go to a GM dealership and get your self a bottle of GM top engine clean... that is the best stuff I have found to work.. I think it runs like 16 bucks a can.... and with that stuff the same as your seafoam... find a vaccum line closest to the throtle body and suck in half the can then shut her off for about half hour 45 minutes then go and run her around the block couple times get most of that carbone out
#6
THEN CHANGE THE OIL!!!!
All carbon removal processes recommend you do that just before you change the oil.
Old school: put the vacuum line in a large glass of water. The steam blows the carbon out just as well. Again, CHANGE THE OIL AFTERWARDS.
I'm not in favor of diluting your oil with that stuff. "Marvel Mystery Oil" makes the same claims. Oil additives are often a bad idea and I'm not going to go into why -- do the research. I'm tired of arguing about it. Diluting your engine oil has long term consequences. If you don't "get it", better look into it instead of believing all the "miracle" claims.
Do you really think a single petroleum based additive can do ALL that stuff claims to do?
Snake oil is what it is. (If you don't know the term, it refers to old "patent" medicines that claimed to cure EVERYTHING basically, but were nothing but alcohol and some other additives that had no therapeutic value).
But there is a medicine that has been shown in study after study to have curative effects, or at least symptomatic relief for some sufferers of VIRTUALLY EVERY SINGLE DRUG TREATED DISEASE KNOWN TO MAN!!!
I'm serious.
It's called "placebo"...(in virtually every double blind drug study, some in the placebo group reported improvement on their therapy).
I think this is to some extent "placebo". Probably a great cleaner -- but that makes it a lubricating SOLVENT. That's not necessarily a class of substances you need to keep in your crankcase.
All carbon removal processes recommend you do that just before you change the oil.
Old school: put the vacuum line in a large glass of water. The steam blows the carbon out just as well. Again, CHANGE THE OIL AFTERWARDS.
I'm not in favor of diluting your oil with that stuff. "Marvel Mystery Oil" makes the same claims. Oil additives are often a bad idea and I'm not going to go into why -- do the research. I'm tired of arguing about it. Diluting your engine oil has long term consequences. If you don't "get it", better look into it instead of believing all the "miracle" claims.
Do you really think a single petroleum based additive can do ALL that stuff claims to do?
Snake oil is what it is. (If you don't know the term, it refers to old "patent" medicines that claimed to cure EVERYTHING basically, but were nothing but alcohol and some other additives that had no therapeutic value).
But there is a medicine that has been shown in study after study to have curative effects, or at least symptomatic relief for some sufferers of VIRTUALLY EVERY SINGLE DRUG TREATED DISEASE KNOWN TO MAN!!!
I'm serious.
It's called "placebo"...(in virtually every double blind drug study, some in the placebo group reported improvement on their therapy).
I think this is to some extent "placebo". Probably a great cleaner -- but that makes it a lubricating SOLVENT. That's not necessarily a class of substances you need to keep in your crankcase.
#10
Originally Posted by n3elz
Probably is fine as a cleaner and fuel additive. I recommend against treating your oil with it.
I know a ton of people that have used it in their intake/vacume to clean carbon up and it has worked wonders..
#12
#16
#17
I used it. 109,000 miles on a 94 4.0L. First, I run it through the brake booster line (about 1/2 a can). Sucked it up, turned it off, waited about 15 mins, then cranked it back up for about 45 mins (until it quit smoking). I poured the rest of that can into the crank case. I poured a whole can into the gas tank, then filled up. That cleaned the injectors pretty well.
I didn't drive more than about 25 miles, then I went and got the oil changed the next day. I can't stress this enough. Get your oil changed very soon after. It is not made for long term use in the crank case, and you should see the sludge that comes out in the oil change.
My truck runs better, pulls like it used to, and it really leveled the idle out a lot. It is quieter, and just overall better.
And seafoam is only $5 a can here.
I didn't drive more than about 25 miles, then I went and got the oil changed the next day. I can't stress this enough. Get your oil changed very soon after. It is not made for long term use in the crank case, and you should see the sludge that comes out in the oil change.
My truck runs better, pulls like it used to, and it really leveled the idle out a lot. It is quieter, and just overall better.
And seafoam is only $5 a can here.
#20
#21
No, I'm talking about sucking it in through the vacuum lines. Putting ANYTHING in your gas isn't going to do much for carbon. And there are plenty of injector cleaners that work so that stuff ain't unique there.
Water in the fuel tank -- what do you take me for? A crazy offroader who has his truck underwater or something?....oh...okay I see your point...
Water in the fuel tank -- what do you take me for? A crazy offroader who has his truck underwater or something?....oh...okay I see your point...
#22
Originally Posted by n3elz
Water in the fuel tank -- what do you take me for? A crazy offroader who has his truck underwater or something?....oh...okay I see your point...
Wasn't for you John, I just said that for anybody that may read this and think that water is a replacement for Seafoam, which the can says to put in your oil and gas... dont need someone thinking otherwise, not everybody's as bright as you and I
#24
Originally Posted by n3elz
THEN CHANGE THE OIL!!!!
All carbon removal processes recommend you do that just before you change the oil.
Old school: put the vacuum line in a large glass of water. The steam blows the carbon out just as well. Again, CHANGE THE OIL AFTERWARDS.
All carbon removal processes recommend you do that just before you change the oil.
Old school: put the vacuum line in a large glass of water. The steam blows the carbon out just as well. Again, CHANGE THE OIL AFTERWARDS.
#25
If you guys are checkin out seafoom try out sardine oil too. I run my truck's differentials on pure sardines and I'd say my truck can roll a good 15 miles at 60 mph.
But seriously...seafoom is good. Heard lotsa good crap about it. John's a skeptic. Not a bad thing, jus he likes to err on the side of caution, which is smart.
Aaron
But seriously...seafoom is good. Heard lotsa good crap about it. John's a skeptic. Not a bad thing, jus he likes to err on the side of caution, which is smart.
Aaron
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iplayloudly
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06-22-2007 03:14 PM