Reverse Lights
#1
#2
It's a mechanical switch on the side of the transmission. You have to get under the truck and use a big socket to take the switch out. Problem is, a big socket needs a big wrench and there isn't much room in the transmission tunnel. I used an old breaker bar, as they are thinner than a socket wrench.
The switch itself is $20 from any auto parts place.
The switch itself is $20 from any auto parts place.
#6
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Get a pic or two of the location and how/what you did to trouble shoot the problem.
i don’t know the fuse but did yo chk it ?
How about the grounds at the lights ?
Are the bulbs good, chk them with a Multimeter set to ohms/resistance; same with the fuse, just to be sure.
luck
#7
Definitely a good idea to check fuses and bulbs before you crawl under and check the switch. As you can see from this pic, it's in a real difficult spot.
The black cap is held on by two thin clips that have a tendency to get brittle with age. Pry them just a hair then pull off the electrical connector. It's water tight, so it may give a fair amount of resistance. I also suggest taping or tying the connector out of the way when you go to remove the switch. Otherwise the connector will be in the way, and may get damaged. I managed to tuck mine under the wire harness, but some wire tie would have been easier.
The switch has a big steel ball at the transmission side which is depressed to make the connection
In my case, the switch was still working electrically, but the steel ball wasn't getting pushed in far enough by the shift lever. I opted to replace it, since there isn't a good way to adjust it, and I didn't want to over torque the aluminum transmission housing threads.
As you can see from the first pic, there isn't much room to swing a socket and a flat wrench won't work. The best would be a large size ratcheting flat wrench with pivoting ends, but I didn't have one.
The black cap is held on by two thin clips that have a tendency to get brittle with age. Pry them just a hair then pull off the electrical connector. It's water tight, so it may give a fair amount of resistance. I also suggest taping or tying the connector out of the way when you go to remove the switch. Otherwise the connector will be in the way, and may get damaged. I managed to tuck mine under the wire harness, but some wire tie would have been easier.
The switch has a big steel ball at the transmission side which is depressed to make the connection
In my case, the switch was still working electrically, but the steel ball wasn't getting pushed in far enough by the shift lever. I opted to replace it, since there isn't a good way to adjust it, and I didn't want to over torque the aluminum transmission housing threads.
As you can see from the first pic, there isn't much room to swing a socket and a flat wrench won't work. The best would be a large size ratcheting flat wrench with pivoting ends, but I didn't have one.
#10
Ok so the truck has a trouble code and I looked under the truck and the wires to the downstream sensor were ripped out. I think someone dropped the tranny and didn't put the harness back right. Ripped the plug right out and ripped the reverse plug off too. Zip stripped it back on and whimmy wham wham wozzle!
Thanks everyone!
Thanks everyone!
#11
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Ok so the truck has a trouble code and I looked under the truck and the wires to the downstream sensor were ripped out. I think someone dropped the tranny and didn't put the harness back right. Ripped the plug right out and ripped the reverse plug off too. Zip stripped it back on and whimmy wham wham wozzle!
Thanks everyone!
Thanks everyone!
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