Every autoparts store around here is useless and doesn't rent or even sell the damn tool i need to remove my inner tie rods which are begging to be replaced.

Does anybody know what size attachment is needed to remove and replace them?

Inner Tie Rod Removal Set

I've found that kit and was just wondering if the needed size is included. I don't want to spend $350 on a snap on kit that ill probably never use again so the cheaper the better.

Thanks

 

I just use a big cresent wrench, the local autozone has the tool. I'm not sure on the size but I think the new one was a little smaller than the old one.

 

Yeah, I went to autozone and got that tool its like 3 sizes in 1 socket but it was too small to fit over the one on there and also too small to fit on the new one (Motorcraft)

 

Autozone rents it in 2 pcs I've gotten it many times there. one piece is a long shaft and the other is the socket end.

Links
Tie Rod Adapter (Saginaw) | AutoZone.com

Inner Tie Rod End Tool | AutoZone.com

 

The Lisle kit has the size, I have it.

Not sure about the HF garbage, but I'd imagine it's a clone of the Lisle/all other kits so it should have the size.

 

ugh the guy is a moron then because he said they don't have anything else for that tool I'll go there first and make sure.
haha alright good to know. the lisle kit is only online though thats the problem or i would of bought it already. Im going to try autozone one more time to see if its going to be the right stuff. I have the new inners now so i can just test fit before i rent em. If not, HF all the way haha

 

I have a set out in the garage I bought but didn't need them.... yet. Just measured and they are 36mm or 1 7/16". Hope this helps.
I always just crank the steering full lock and use a wrench to remove them. Does the ranger have a fold over washer to lock the inner socket in place or not?

 

thanks ted. I got it all done. The harbor freight tool isn't "Garbage" as said above, it worked great. Glad i bought it.

 

Yea, the quality of most of their stuff has greatly improved over the past couple of years.
A lot of their hand tools and some of their electrical tools have really improved.I am not at all leery of purchasing from them anymore.

 

I like the hand tools. As for the electrical ones....


lmao fried the grinder....yes thats smoke lol

 

Ha ha, Thats why I only said some, I was half way through a bedroom remodel back in July and my DeWalt orbital sander broke. The part to repair was 19 dollars and two week delivery. Went to harbor bought a orbital sander for 9 dollars finished the job and the sander has done a couple jobs since still working like a charm.

 

I'm going to be replacing my tie rod ends soon. Was it difficult to do?

 

Inners or outers? Outers are pretty straight forward just count the turns as you take them out. Inners are a little more difficult, you first have to remove the tierod boot then crank the steering all the way to expose the inner nut remove replace.
I haven't done my Ranger yet so don't know if they nut is captured with a fold over washer to prevent it from loosening or if it has a lock washer or just locktite the sucker in just make sure it is good and tight.

Can anyone elaborate on what type of lock system is used to keep the inner tierod from loosening?

 

I'm going to change the inner and outer tie rods - they're not too expensive, and this way I'll only have to get one alignment.

Does counting the threads matter much if you're going to get an alignment 5 miles down the road right after they're installed?


These were posted up before, can anybody explain the functions of these tools? I'm at a loss here.

 

No need to count if you are only going 5 miles.

As for the tool, there is a nut (actually flats machined on it) on the inner end of the tie rod. Can't get to it without that long tube (b/c of the long threaded rod for the outer end) with the proper sized fitting at the end (kits will have multiple sizes).

I've used pipe wrenches before, and you can get at the inner end on Rangers with the steering at full lock, but it's much easier with the tool.

When you get the tool it will all make sense, there is no way you can screw it up...well, maybe but you'd have to be pretty dumb.


As for the method of locking, IIRC there is no washer, just locktite.

 

Haha, thanks for the information, Carl. I think I'm going to order the parts today from Rock Auto and save myself the extra $300 of going to a mechanic.

I think I remember seeing a castle nut back there holding things together.

 

Which ones are you going to order?

I was looking at those and racks the other night on rockauto. They have a couple different brands and ones for standard cabs and extended cabs. Not sure what the difference would be.

 

I was going to order the Moog parts because they have the grease fittings on them and I've seen their name thrown around the forums for a while now without hearing anything bad about them.

 

Only castle nut will be on the outer ends at the knuckle along with a locking nut on the outer end of the inner tie rod for the outer end.....confusing, huh?

I'd go Moog or Spicer for the outer and inners, that's what I've used twice now (for two trucks)

 

That tool you just pictured didn't work on my truck, it was too small to fit onto the "nut" on the inner tie rod. I just went out to harbor freight and bought a kit for 30 bucks and it came with an assorted set of sizes and it worked like a charm.
Inner Tie Rod Removal Set (damn its 50 now)
Simple to use, just slide the appropriate size you need and slide it onto the tie rod. you'll have to take off the outers and the boot of course.

Also, when you lock tite the new tie rod use BLUE lock tite, not red. If you use red, you'll need to heat it up next time you replace them and that will more than likely melt the seal on the rack. Use a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar and not an impact because that could also damage the rack. I didn't bother counting the threads because i replaced the outers while i was at it since they're cheap and a different brand than what was on there. some people also turn the wheel when they do it but just keep it straight. I was also told to use motorcraft brand inners because the moog ones for some reason go out fast but moog for everything else. I got the motorcraft ones at cost too, totaled to 86 bucks for both sides and list price is 84 each lol

I knew none of this until Justin (toreador4x4) told me all of it

 

Thanks for the info.

So, if the tool doesn't work, it looks like I'll be able to get the inner tie rod off by turning the wheel all the way and using a pipe wrench or a large crescent wrench... is that right?

 

Yeah you could it just puts some stress on the rack when you're loosening and tightening the tie rod because when the rack is extended it may break off or ruin the seal which is why i just kept the wheel straight, just be careful if you do it that way. I'd let you borrow my kit so you'll definitely have the right sizes but idk how much shipping would be lol

and if the wheels turned you'll feel your alignment wayyy off when u take it to the shop haha

 

It will work. Only real pain (and it's not too tough) is getting the boot back on with zip ties.

 

ugh f*ck the boots. they came with these weird clamps and it was such a pain to get them on but i got it to work after like 10 minutes of fighting it lol

 

I got the parts in and started taking things apart. Which areas do i want to use the blue lock tite on? I figured the threads that go into the rack, but do any of the other ones need them?

And, does that boot on the inner tie rod end just slip right off? I was looking for some sort of clip on it, but can't find anything. If there is anything, it looks like my front cross member is blocking it... and also any access that I have to the inner tie rod's machined surface. I have no idea how I'm going to get to that yet without the tool.

Oh, I've come to find that my passenger's side axle seal is leaking pretty good. Another thing to try and remember how to replace. Yay.