Found another crack in my frame
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Found another crack in my frame
Well I had a crack in my passenger side frame above the rear wheels that i had fixed. Here is the link to that thread.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/general-ford-ranger-discussion-15/cracked-frame-119539/
The other day i had my truck in the shed replacing a door handle and noticed i could see light through part of the frame on the drivers side. The rivets that hold the drivers side shock mount on are rusting out causing the frame to crack. So i guess I will have to cut the old ones off and weld a plate on the frame and then drill new holes and mount new shock mounts on the truck. This is aggrevating.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/general-ford-ranger-discussion-15/cracked-frame-119539/
The other day i had my truck in the shed replacing a door handle and noticed i could see light through part of the frame on the drivers side. The rivets that hold the drivers side shock mount on are rusting out causing the frame to crack. So i guess I will have to cut the old ones off and weld a plate on the frame and then drill new holes and mount new shock mounts on the truck. This is aggrevating.
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Ok i have a few questions. I under stand what stop drilling is but what size drill bit do you recomend? I figured i would use 1/4" plate so you say i should "fish mouth" it as in grind the edges down like this I/ all the way around. I looked up what rosette welds were and from what i found was you drill through one of the plates and not the other and weld the hole up. Which plate should i drill through? How big of a hole should i drill and where should i dril them?
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Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Ok i have a few questions. I under stand what stop drilling is but what size drill bit do you recomend? I figured i would use 1/4" plate so you say i should "fish mouth" it as in grind the edges down like this I/ all the way around. I looked up what rosette welds were and from what i found was you drill through one of the plates and not the other and weld the hole up. Which plate should i drill through? How big of a hole should i drill and where should i dril them?
I am not a welder so bear with me.
“Stop drilling Holes”, I guess I thought a hole at the end of the crack would stop it ?
“Fishmouth” I thought that was the end of a tube being attached to another tube; how does this apply to a frame and flat steel ?
Thkg out of the box, can you weld in plates on both the outside and the inside of the frame and a cross tube between them at the shock mounting locations and add new shock mounts, again just thkg ?
Last edited by Scrambler82; 01-25-2012 at 07:22 AM.
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Notching or fish mouth on tube is so they fit together, when you do it to plate it increases the amount of welded area to increase the strength of the new joint. So for this repair make patch then just make a nice curve in it from corner to corner, moch it up with cardboard. if it is pleasing to the eye it should be fine. So fish mouth and plug/rosette welds should be down to your patch, keep in mind the stick frame is about 1/8 so too much heat will screw it up. I would use 1/8 plate and try and wrap the top side and bottom of the frame with plate, if cutting and welding of multiple pieces needs to be done to make it happen that is ok. The idea is to strengthen the whole area. If there is nothing on the inside rail you can box that section too.
Stop drilling you just a drill bit larger than the crack and drilling a hole at the end of it. So the crack can not continue through the hole. After that you can weld up the crack grind it down a bit si the plate will sit flush. Since you have crossmember rivets there you may want to leave holes for them so you can remove it without removing the repair.
Also remove the rust under the patch and paint it with some weld through primer, now is a perfect time for a top coat of chassis paint.
Stop drilling you just a drill bit larger than the crack and drilling a hole at the end of it. So the crack can not continue through the hole. After that you can weld up the crack grind it down a bit si the plate will sit flush. Since you have crossmember rivets there you may want to leave holes for them so you can remove it without removing the repair.
Also remove the rust under the patch and paint it with some weld through primer, now is a perfect time for a top coat of chassis paint.
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I would like to point something out.
Have any of you guys been around heavy machinery? (Cranes, large tractors, even bobcats)
Look at a lot of the plating. Some, if not most, of the plating have fish mouth weld on them.
Some of the plating has rosette (plug welds) as well, just to increase the overall strength.
Just wanted to post this. lol.
Have any of you guys been around heavy machinery? (Cranes, large tractors, even bobcats)
Look at a lot of the plating. Some, if not most, of the plating have fish mouth weld on them.
Some of the plating has rosette (plug welds) as well, just to increase the overall strength.
Just wanted to post this. lol.
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Then I learned about these different types of welds.
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