My camber was really bad for a few years and was adjusted all the way positive. there just wasnt enough adjustment in stock form to correct it so i bought some cam bolts that increase camber adjustment which got me back closer to within specs but not quite there. I can still visually tell that they are still too negative so my question is, is there anything else i can do/buy to give me even more camber adjustment in the positive direction short of cutting off the upper A-arm mounts and fabbing something up? I will make some new upper mounts if i have to, but i would much rather save myself some time and do something that has been done before.

*Go to page two for construction pics

 

if you have cam bolts in both mounting points of the upper arm, and you still have negative camber on both sides (meaning nothing is bent on one side) you need to turn your torsion bars down or remove the keys if you have them

 

I could, but they I would get some rubbing issues. I really don't think I should have to uncrank the bars judging by the angle of the arms and CVs. Tell me if I am wrong.
IMG_1310.jpg?t=1250566282

 

any pics showing how bad your camber is?

the cam bolts corrected mine completely..

 

i didnt know you were superlifted too, do you have cams on the front and rear bolts?

 

yeah, cams on all 4 bolts.

here is a pic, not too recent but the cam bolts are in there.
IMG_0730.jpg?t=1250569415

 

How are those ball joints?

Cams fixed all my camber issues...and my bars are almost maxed.

 

I jacked up the front end and couldnt feel any play so i think they are fine.

 

They're spring loaded...so jacking up the truck and moving the tire won't do squat. Take a screwdriver and try to seperate the knuckle away from the lower arm. If you can, time for balljoints.

 

thread jack, but is there anyway to tell if i need new balljoints, ttb status lol

 

will this work without jacking the truck up?

 

jack it up yes. then screwdriver or prybar.

 

This is where I was prying. Not sure if it was the right place but i couldnt separate the two.
IMG_1423.jpg?t=1250573969

 

Close,
But stick the prybar underneath the tire itself then use the bar.

 

how would that separate the knuckle from the LCA? wouldnt that push them together?

 

It is going to take pressure of your lower control arm, and same as your uppers. You can then visually see if there is any play in both of them.

But if your ball joints are bad enough to cause that amount of camber, then you are going to hear and feel some serious clunking.

my guess is somethings possibly bent. Or is it possible your bars have sagged enough to do it?

 

I would guess more that the upper balljoints are bad but I think if it was that bad you would have felt it.
The angles on the CV joints and lower control arms are fine.
Is there any adjustment on the lower control arm mounting bolts with the superlift?
No looseness in the wheel bearings?

 

Yeah....his angles are alot flatter than mine....of course my BJ's are tight. My TRE's....that's another story. The Bearings.....idk....I got Cory's old ones I'll throw on for good measure. 111k, figured it's time.

 

To answer you question smakes jack up your truck and grab the top and bottom of the wheel and move it up and down if you have any play have fun replacing those. But you shouldn't have to because beam ball joints are pretty tuff.

 

Wheel bearings are fine. I'll look more into the BJs when i get back from work tonight.

 

I don't know if this will help completely, but when I bought my cam bolts PepBoys had 2 different versions giving more adjustment. The ones I bought had 3 1/4" total adjustment and the others were ~2 1/2" or 2 3/4". So, check which ones you have.

Since several of the other guys here have gotten their aligments perfect or near perfect, maybe the fix is that simple.

 

ive got 96k on the stock balljoints, maybe its time to replace them anyway?
and what do you mean have fun, when i had my truck torn apart to but in those camber eccentrics it didnt look that hard to remove a balljoint, but i could be wrong

 

Not sure which one i have, but it doesnt matter. they are adjusted as much as the UCA mounts will allow. the rear bolt on both sides still has some adjustment left in it, but the UCA mount restricts it. If i remember I will take a pic when I get home because I'm sure it wont make sense without one.

 

cool bumper

 

Here are my cam bolts. both sides look pretty much the same so these are just the front and rear of one side. you can see how one is maxed out and the other is limited by the UCA mount itself.

IMG_1432.jpg?t=1250645404
IMG_1430.jpg?t=1250645495
IMG_1425.jpg?t=1250645523

is this normal?