Hey guys I am looking to do the E Fan mod to my truck. (2007 Ranger, FX4 4.0l, auto)

Was thinking about using this fan but not sure if it would work or if it comes with everything I need to do the mod.
Flex-a-lite 188 - Flex-a-lite Black Magic Xtreme Series Electric Fans - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Also would I still have to use the stock fan shroud with this setup?

Besides the Taurus E-Fan would there be any other better recommendations than this setup?

I do a fair amount of towing of approximately 4000-5000 lbs. on hilly terrain. Temperature can be as hot as 104

 

The 15" version says it comes with
"Includes adjustable thermostat, A/C relay, and manual switch connection"
Flex-a-lite 180 - Flex-a-lite Black Magic Xtreme Series Electric Fans - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

YUP, the OEM mechanical fan/clutch!

 

So I will not free up any HP or gain MPG by switching to a E-Fan?
I thought an E-Fan would be able to cool just as well as the Stock fan?

Ops. Also forgot to mention that I have ordered a Under drive crank pulley.
Not sure if that will affect the stock cooling setup more to be in favor for the E-Fan setup?

 

If you don't change the pulley on your water pump, then it will slow the flow. An electric fan should free up some power by removing the load of the mechanical fan. I'm sure you've felt it when you are driving a long, go to pass someone, the fan kicks on (because the A/C perhaps), and the power lags. With an electric you won't have that problem. An electric fan will cool as well as a stock fan assuming it pulls the same or more CFM and is set up properly.

Kris

 

If your doing alot of towing, get a full size.

And e-fans do tend to fail compared to cars with oem e-fans.

Also if your driving down the highway at highway speed towing something below the max. rated weight your going to be getting more air through your rad then what any fan would do.

 

What size would be a full size fan? and do I make the new efan fit in my stock fan shroud still?

 

I think he meant a full size truck

 

.

 

I'm confused now.

 

Not true! Even an aftermarket e-fan manufacturer doesn't recommend an e-fan for primary cooling in high heat load
applications:

 

An interesting article:

Cooling Capacity:

By far, the most common misconception is that the electric fan cools better then the stock. People see the high CFM numbers in the catalogues (for example, the Black Magic is advertised as pulling 2,800 CFM, and the Perma Cool "finger chopper" is advertised at 2,950 CFM) and are impressed. The truth is that no one actually knows the CFM rating of the stock fan. It has simply never been measured by anyone in the aftermarket and listed. All we do know is that it is rated at "a lot", more times than not it will exceed 4000 CFM. And to be honest, who cares how much air the stock fan moves? It is more then adaquate as long as it's clutch and the rest of the cooling system is in good shape. The steeply raked blades of the stock fan move quite a lot of air, even if it turns slower then an aftermarket electric unit. Experience has shown that when in good shape, the stock fan is even easily capable of handling a 400HP engine. How much power do you make?


Efficiency:

Of course, you're not necessarily after better cooling. You've seen those TV commercials or catalogue ads that promise "Up to 17 free HP!" by converting to an electric fan. Well, that's simply not true. There will be a horsepower gain for sure, on the order of 0.5 - 5HP, with 17 H.P. reserved for big V-8s using 40 lb fans at 6000 rpms. But remember that the electric power to run the fan must come from somewhere, and that somewhere is the alternator. Electric fans draw quite a lot of current. Most pull surges of 35A or more to start up, then run at 8A-10A. This puts extra load on the alternator. Ever pedaled a bicycle with a generator powered light? If so, then you will know that as the electrical load on a generator/alternator increases, the generator/alternator becomes harder to turn. Suddenly, all that "free" HP you just freed up is once again being used. This time, though, it is being used to turn the alternator. There is also an inefficiency in the whole system. We are converting mechanical energy, to electrical energy, to mechanical again to run the fan. This very inefficient, much less then just driving the fan directly via the mechanical energy of the rotating shaft


Reliability:

Lastly, there is the question of reliability. The stock clutch fan can have two failure modes: the clutch will fail, or the fan will physically break. The electric fan introduces many more failure points: fuse, all wiring connections, physical failure of the fan, failure of the motor, failure of the thermostat

 

reliability wise i got my taurus efan off of a taurus with 180xxx miles and have had it in 3 different trucks and probally put another 50xxx miles on it has yet to give me any problems as long as you use quality sensors and relays there shouldn't be any problems the either

 

Awhile ago some guys truck caught on fire and got destroyed because of his e-fan.

 

and then there is the people that have had them in for years with no problems. like i said use quality stuff when installing and don't half *** it and you will be fine

 

Lets put it at this, you don't have a problem with it but some do. Now compare that to the stock oem fan, how many people have problems with those? Little to none and actually the guy whos truck caught on fire bought an e-fan kit.

 

So basically you guys are saying even with the under drive pulley installed on my truck, and what I use the truck for, I should still stay with the Stock setup?

 

Absolutely!!!

 

OEM is a thermal fan clutch right?