ok guys, i've looked over the forums quite a bit and couldn't really find anything that related to the issue i've been having with my ranger, i have a 99 Ranger XLT, reg cab, 4x4, 4.0L, now, my steel lines from my front hubs rusted off so i've had to modify them in a way that my front hubs are 100% disengaged all the time, better fuel economy for me that way, they've been like this since i've had to drive 150+kms every weekend over the summer. after learning that im not able to simply swap hubs with your everyday warn manual locking hubs because of my wierd hub/bearing assembly thing, i've resorted to ordering a pair of AMV or AVM... the rugged ridge manual locking hubs imported from brazil, they should be here within 2 weeks or so, simply judging from other guys delivery times.

now that u've got the history, here's the problem. when i bought the truck, the ABS light was on, the guy i bought it from said that i shouldn't have much of problem with it unless it goes out, well, i figured sure why not, he said he'd taken it to a mechanic who said the whole module was crap and it'd cost bout $1000 to fix it, hardly worth it. so he decided he'd just continue with power brakes. untill recently i had no idea what the problem'd be if the light went back out, couple weeks ago i found out. i go to press the brakes and they go bout 1/8", just enough to know u've pressed em, then they lock up solid and u have NO BRAKING, NONE, i literally stood on the brake pedal and got nothing, the reason for my enthusatic concern in this situation was that i was headed straight for the garage door, which i hit.... minimal damage to the door, no damage to the truck, however, since then i've been drivin with my rear abs sensor unplugged from my rear diff, due to the fact that simply takin the abs fuse out renders my speedometer dead. so, i was curious if anyone else has run into this problem and would now what exactly is wrong.

FYI i have wheel speed sensors at both front wheels and one on top of the rear diff(currently unplugged)

FYI also, this was on gravel at low speed and there was no skidding, just no brake application, and my brakes work fine now that i've unplugged the rear diff, save for the rear end lockin up quite easily...

 

Ouch!

Sounds to me like you either need to repair / replace the bad parts. Or.. rip the whole ABS thing out and just go old school.

As far no braking and a locking pedal. I'd think the only thing that would cause that is either something physically not letting the pedal/arm to go down or the ABS module has a valve closed.



Rich

 

hmmm somehow i thought something like the latter'd be the culprit....g-d-fing thing... i was told thats wut i'd have to replace, but wudn't there be a way for me to diagnose it if it was just my module that was screwed? it's only intermittent so it might be repairable, right? i don't know much bout these abs systems so im asking for any kinda info really....

 

Been riding m,y rear abs light for 120 tho.. some stupid sping in the master cyliner poped when I replaced fronr pads

 

I'm not advocating destruction of origi equipment- Try building a redundent circuit that can defeat a factory problem. You say there is a speedo prob? Find out what parameters are involved. I imagine that most componants are tanked at 12v or less and with a moderate amount of shotgun monitoring a comparative should be found. I made my decision to stay at pre obd11 because of the continual onslaught of appliance integration .
In PLAIN AMERICAN: screw the diode- raise the transistor and balence your ohms!

 

lol, i like the enthusiasm but i don't have a problem with my speedo, it's with the abs, i said if i pull the abs fuse i lose my speedo, i assume they share the fuse in their circuit.

 

Why don't you just remove the ABS unit and connect the lines. I did that with my '93 Ranger. I know yours is 6 years newer but there should be some way to remove it and trick the wiring. It belongs to a friend now and is still going.

 

i know this is an option, to remove it, however i was just curious if the guy i bought it off of, or myself was getting dupped for money when the fix was simple enough. that's all

 

What you describe is fairly consistant with what I've seen others go through. The ABS module (computer controled valve body) is very expensive to replace. And.. I've seen people try to go cheap when replacing them only to have it go bad again in short order.

If you replace it. Go with OEM parts.


IMO if the truck is that old and you are able to use regular old brakes. Just swap out the ABS unit for new pipes and a proportitioning valve.

Rich

 

ok, say i do this, and make it as though i never even had an abs system, i've been told that a new law is in the works that if a vehicle has, or came with abs, it has got to have the abs system running 100% in order to be road legal, would my truck then become pretty much a money hole? having to put abs back on etc?

 

Look at it like this, if you remove the ABS and get it working for least $ your ok. If the law does in fact exist or is passed then you'll have to make it ABS active.

So, do you want to spend the money and it turns out there is no law or do you remove it and take a chance.

Have you done a search to see if such a law is pending or has passed?

 

no i just heard this law through the grapevine really, but i also heard another law on an unrelated subject that all non-factory tint on vehicles is illegal

 

Most states, counties or cities have laws against having a tint past a certain darkness.

It is so the police can see inside the vehicle. If they can't see inside the vehicle you may have a serious problem with them and get arrested and have to remove the tint.

It seems that seldom gets enforced around here though as I have seen black and near black back side and rear windows.