2004 Power Door Locks: Door locks self when opening door
#1
07-05-2016
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: DFW
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2004 Power Door Locks: Door locks self when opening door
Haven't posted in a LONG time...have an issue.
Back History:
For years now, the interior door lock switch on driver side will sometimes cut out. Sometimes it works, other times it will only unlock, but not lock, and yet other instances both lock and unlock won't work - at times, firmly but gently hitting the door just below the switch will get it to re-engage, which tells me a connection problem somewhere. A few years back I pulled the panel, checked all connections, got working perfectly fine for a few days and then symptoms returned. I have lived with this as the key fob works fine, as does the passenger side door lock switch.
Today:
I go to run errands, unlock the truck with my fob, grab the exterior driver side door handle to open. Upon lifting the handle, the driver side door automatically locks itself (but able to open the door). If I unlock with either the fob or with interior switches, it will also lock itself by either lifting the driver side exterior handle or the driver side interior handle. If I double press the unlock on the fob (unlocking both driver and passenger sides) and then repeat lifting of either interior/exterior door handle, it will lock.
From the interior, if I unlock immediately after the above, it will only lock upon the initial time and any attempts to lift interior handle for an "exit" results in the door functioning properly. From the exterior, it will still "automatically" lock the door from an unlocked position.
Search Result (singular) that had no follow-ups...
https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...issues-147151/
Possible remedy, but will have to wait...I bought dielectric grease months ago but haven't gotten around to unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the door electrical panel. My thinking was that if the connection is within the switch or connector, that dielectric grease will aid in bridging the connection. I do have 2 other driver side switches from interior panels I picked up from junkyards and these other switches behave just the same as described above.
Back History:
For years now, the interior door lock switch on driver side will sometimes cut out. Sometimes it works, other times it will only unlock, but not lock, and yet other instances both lock and unlock won't work - at times, firmly but gently hitting the door just below the switch will get it to re-engage, which tells me a connection problem somewhere. A few years back I pulled the panel, checked all connections, got working perfectly fine for a few days and then symptoms returned. I have lived with this as the key fob works fine, as does the passenger side door lock switch.
Today:
I go to run errands, unlock the truck with my fob, grab the exterior driver side door handle to open. Upon lifting the handle, the driver side door automatically locks itself (but able to open the door). If I unlock with either the fob or with interior switches, it will also lock itself by either lifting the driver side exterior handle or the driver side interior handle. If I double press the unlock on the fob (unlocking both driver and passenger sides) and then repeat lifting of either interior/exterior door handle, it will lock.
From the interior, if I unlock immediately after the above, it will only lock upon the initial time and any attempts to lift interior handle for an "exit" results in the door functioning properly. From the exterior, it will still "automatically" lock the door from an unlocked position.
Search Result (singular) that had no follow-ups...
https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...issues-147151/
Possible remedy, but will have to wait...I bought dielectric grease months ago but haven't gotten around to unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the door electrical panel. My thinking was that if the connection is within the switch or connector, that dielectric grease will aid in bridging the connection. I do have 2 other driver side switches from interior panels I picked up from junkyards and these other switches behave just the same as described above.
#2
07-05-2016
2004 ranger should have the unlock/lock via the Smart Junction box(replaced GEM)
The door switch just sends signal to the SJB, it doesn't handle the voltage like in the "olden days" pre-GEM or SJB, or keyless entry
I would unplug the drivers door switch and see if problem goes away.
I should have just 2 wires, one is a Ground, the other passes that Ground to the SJB when switch is pressed, when you press lock the SJB gets straight ground, when you press unlock SJB gets ground but passed thru a resistor so not a straight ground.
Same setup has been used for years on cruise controls
Could also be the two wires are shorting, in the door or in the door jam where wires are bent when opening and closing the door.
Short would send the "lock" signal to the SJB
The door switch just sends signal to the SJB, it doesn't handle the voltage like in the "olden days" pre-GEM or SJB, or keyless entry
I would unplug the drivers door switch and see if problem goes away.
I should have just 2 wires, one is a Ground, the other passes that Ground to the SJB when switch is pressed, when you press lock the SJB gets straight ground, when you press unlock SJB gets ground but passed thru a resistor so not a straight ground.
Same setup has been used for years on cruise controls
Could also be the two wires are shorting, in the door or in the door jam where wires are bent when opening and closing the door.
Short would send the "lock" signal to the SJB
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BlackRanger04
General Technical & Electrical
1
12-19-2010 09:44 AM
