Help: No start issue 1985 2.0 4cyl
#1
Help: No start issue 1985 2.0 4cyl
My truck up and died after I had started it. I've had no issues like this before. I can crank and crank and it will never start. I have replaced the following: ignition switch, ignition coil, ignition control module, plugs and wires, distributer cap and rotor, fuel pump, fuel filter, and tried to check the timing and replaced the belt. Pretty sure it's in time but still don't start.
The only other thing I've determined is I might be only getting "fire" when I initially turn the key so the motor just turns and turns.
Anyone have any ideas?
The only other thing I've determined is I might be only getting "fire" when I initially turn the key so the motor just turns and turns.
Anyone have any ideas?
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Obvious, but I will mention it, is distributor turning when engine is cranked?
So timing belt isn't broken.
Have you put gas down the carb, or pumped throttle to see if gas is squirting out the jets?
If it doesn't start up when you add gas manually then you are getting no spark.
OR
You have no compression, timing belt slipped.
Have you put an old spark plug in one of the wires and watch for spark when engine is cranked?
If you have a volt meter test for voltage at the "+" side of coil
So timing belt isn't broken.
Have you put gas down the carb, or pumped throttle to see if gas is squirting out the jets?
If it doesn't start up when you add gas manually then you are getting no spark.
OR
You have no compression, timing belt slipped.
Have you put an old spark plug in one of the wires and watch for spark when engine is cranked?
If you have a volt meter test for voltage at the "+" side of coil
#3
Distributor is turning. I went ahead and put a new belt on it but it wasn't broken. It's getting fuel because I can crank it enough and it'll flood. I have looked for spark and it seems to not be giving consistent spark.
Is it possible to suddenly lose compression?
Got much voltage should I be looking for on the coil?
Is it possible to suddenly lose compression?
Got much voltage should I be looking for on the coil?
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Coil "+" should have 7-9 volts(via Ballast resistor) when key is on
Coil "-" is NOT a ground, just FYI.
When cranking, coil "+" should have 10+ volts, so slightly higher voltage when cranking.
This higher voltage comes from the "I" post on the Starter Relay(solenoid) on the fender well.
You can run a jumper wire from the Battery "+" to the Coil "+" to give the coil power all the time to see if it will start, this won't hurt anything, it is what is suppose to happen when key is on.
Coil "-" is NOT a ground, just FYI.
When cranking, coil "+" should have 10+ volts, so slightly higher voltage when cranking.
This higher voltage comes from the "I" post on the Starter Relay(solenoid) on the fender well.
You can run a jumper wire from the Battery "+" to the Coil "+" to give the coil power all the time to see if it will start, this won't hurt anything, it is what is suppose to happen when key is on.
Last edited by RonD; 06-07-2014 at 10:11 AM.
#6
Problem solved. It was the Pickup Coil on the Distributor. Now I've run into a new problem.
I purchased one of those Cardone Remanufactured Distributors. 3 weeks without my truck stuck the new distributor on, got it timed then the "new" part locked up. I've got to wait 4 days for another one to come in and hope it doesn't lock up either.
So my new question, what are some recommendations for an aftermarket replacement if I continue to have problems?
I purchased one of those Cardone Remanufactured Distributors. 3 weeks without my truck stuck the new distributor on, got it timed then the "new" part locked up. I've got to wait 4 days for another one to come in and hope it doesn't lock up either.
So my new question, what are some recommendations for an aftermarket replacement if I continue to have problems?
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