So was driving me nuts.. it would sometimes work and sometimes not.. push the stalk button in and sometimes the windshield wiper pump fluid would squirt out... most would not... 34 times doing it and maybe 2 times it working but when it DID work it would shoot out until I let go of the stalk button..

Thinking it was the pump or stalk I bought both.. just replaced both and same f'ing problem...

I look at the connector and find this:







I took a mulitmeter to those two pins and get .02 -.19 volts... not 12votls.

the bottom two pins give me a constand 12v's...

I am assuming the top two should as well...


So now it brings me to the point of how do I fix this... there is hardly any room to work with and when I traced teh top of the pins on teh back of the connector it still reads the same...

I'm pissed not that I bought stuff that wasn't bad, rather how I can fix this or how this even happened honstly... Must have been previous owner or a surge of power..

Any insight would be great.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

Nigel,

What year is your truck and where is that connector located at?

 

Looks like it's the multifunction switch (turn signals, etc.)

It's lucky that didn't do more damage than it did.

If you can find a connector from the junk yard, just cut the old one off & butt splice or solder/heat shrink the new one in place.

Not sure what pins have voltage when/where, but you might get by for a little while if you can clean the insides of the contacts... I'd still replace the connector asap.

 

it could of had a lose connection and it just kept touching it until it got hot and melted it

 

2001 Ford ranger XLT. The connector is one of two that go into the indicator stalk.

I checked the voltage both at the plug and at the actual pump and it still reads the same.. no where near 12volts... so I'm not sure if replacing the connector would even do anything?
Which at that point I don't really know what to do...

That's possible.. but it's clipped on both sides.. I actually broke the one clip taking it off recently but it looks like no one has ever taken this off.. looks to be the original stalk from 2001..lol


Terry is it possible I can do the following?



Sorry for the paint diagram... If I take two small wires from the good 12v source and put them on the two suspect wires would that push the 12v's through all the way?
There is no way that the 12v's from that would go down because the other side isn't putting out 12v's right? IE: If I hook up two wires, it's not going to bring the good 12v source down to .19 volts? I hope that is making sense...


For instance tonight. I went to pusht he button and 20 + times of me pushing it the windshield fluid squirted out and kept going till I let go of the push button... then I waited 15 mins and tried it again and nothing... did it again now and nothing...

I can physically hear the relay click but nothing else... I hate electrical problems. But I think the above has to be what is causing the flaking issue of it pumping and then not.. I would image that part needs to get 12v's....

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

I honestly don't know if the other 2 wires are supposed to have voltage, how much or when/if they are supposed to.
I'd be cautious jumping the wires, if they're meant to have lower voltage you could fry something else.

Best bet would be to find a new connector from the J/Y and just splice it in. When you have a working connector, you can start back tracing where the problem is downstream.

I'm sure one of the guys here or on the other forums probably has one of those connectors laying around in their garages.

Depending on the size of the terminal inside the switch housing, you might be able to use some female spade crimp connectors & bypass that connector completely. I wouldn't want to use it as a permanent fix but it could help to eliminate the connector as the problem.

 

At no time should you see any voltage in excess of 12-14 volts on any of these wires. The two burnt wires should be for the low beam headlight circuit. One is power feed from the head light switch and the other is the output to the headlights from the multifunction switch.

As for trying to install those jumper wires I would not recommend attempting this. You’ll need to figure out what caused this problem and correct it.

The connectors pin out should be as follows based on your center picture. Starting with the top row from left to right is terminal 2. It should be a Red with yellow stripe wire (first burnt wire). This is the power feed from your head light switch to the multifunction switch for the low beams. Next is terminal 3. It should be a Red with Black stripe wire (second burnt wire). This is the power output from the multifunction switch to the low beams. Next is terminal 5. It should be a Gray with orange stripe wire. This is the power output from the multifunction switch to the High Beams. Next is terminal 7. It should be a Dark Blue with orange stripe wire. This is 12V power feed that’s hot at all times. It feeds the multifunction switch from fuse F1.24 in the battery junction box (under Hood) for the High Beams.

On the bottom row from left to right should be terminal 1. It should be a Pink with orange stripe wire. However, in your pictures it looks like its White with a pink stripe. This should be the wiper washer input between the multifunction switch and GEM. Next is terminal 4 Its should be a Gray with red stripe wire. However, in your picture it looks like its Pink with a yellow stripe. This should be the wiper washer signal return between the multifunction switch and GEM. Next is terminal 6. It should be a Light blue with a orange stripe. This should be the Wiper washer delay input between the multifunction switch and GEM.

Can you get a picture of that same connector but showing the rear with wires visible?

 

AS always I did not read all of the posting.

Replace the connector with bare Spade Lugs and/or wire but solder the connection and use heat shrink with adhesive in it to seal it all up.
Watch the spade lugs, some claim to have heat shrink around the connector but sometimes it does not shrink in that area, separate heat shrink on a bare lug is better way.

 

Almost forgot. as to your original issue with the washer pump, there is a relay located in the BJB that controls the washer pump. This relay may be whats causing your original problem.

Note there's no direct connection between the multifunction switch (washer switch button) and this relay. The switch tells the GEM and then the GEM grounds the washer pump relay thereby sending power to the washer pump.

 

There is no slack at all in the wiring harness to pull it out... I was under the impression that it went all the way to the engine bay.. but if there is another connector on the other side then perhaps the whole thing can be removed? Also noted that everything on that switch that you describes works for me. My headlights work fine, my turn signals work fine, the headlight illumination works fine. Brights/ flashing..etc. Nothing is affected it looks like by those two wires or connector that is melted on the one part.




What is the BJB? I've looked at the relays on the drivers side engine comparement. all look fine and test fine. I have tested every fuse in the cabin on the driver side right in side teh door on the dash.. I pulled the wiper fuse and then the wipers stopped working, put the fuse back in and then the motor was working to move the wipers...

I would love to find or locate that relay because maybe that is causing the problem...??

Thanks so much!

-Nigel

 

Nigel,

If that connector is the one that plugs into the multifunction switch the pin out information I gave above should be correct. Does your headlights work with this connector disconnected? If so those two burnt wires must be shorting together in the connector as they sit.

Note, turn signals, brake lights, etc are run through the other connector on the multifunction switch.

For the location of the washer relay look in the Power Distribution Box aka Battery Junction Box (BJB) under hood Click this link 2001 Ranger Owners Manual and go to page 169 and look at the diagram for relay 46B. Note, you can right click this link and then click save link as to save this PDF to your computer for future reference.

 

I will trying this now.

I am going to disconnect the windshield wiper stalk.
Disconnect that harness or should I do both just in case?

Turn the headlight dial switch to the park/headlights on .. if it DOES work that is a problem. If it does NOT turn on then it is how it should be correct? As it sits now I can turn my headlights on without the key in the ignition and what not. I can do the same with the parking lights as well.

You mean 56B right? I just checked the above link and 46B — Trailer Tow. I don't believe I have a towing packing on my 01' xlt 2wd. But just want to make sure.

Is this a specific type of relay ford or can I go to advance auto and pick on up to see if that's the problem.

when I push the stalk in I can hear the click that the relay is making.. but is it possible that it's perhaps only working in one way rather than both? IE: It's making a click but not fully fuctional?

Thanks again!

-Nigel

 

No, the correct relay for the windshield washer pump is 46B. Look at the chart on page 171. #46B (Front Washer Pump).

If you can hear the relay click, then you should be getting power to the washer pump. A test light or voltmeter should confirm this at the washer pump connector. If your getting power I would have to assume the relay is working.

If you've replugged that connector back into the multifunction switch, then yes the headlights should work. With it unplugged, the headlights, and wiper/washer should not work.

 

I switched the relays from the 56a and 56b. And it works... everytime... I am going to go driving and then work out and come back out and see fi it works... If not then I know the relay isn't the issue but it's odd.. perhaps it could have been that.

Where does one get the white ford relays from? I can imagine ford charging a butt load...lol

-Nigel

 

I'm running the little 2.3L... :-p Next ranger hopefully a bigger engine but I think the 56b is for my 2.3l engine.

Still trouble shooting but so far I greatly appreacate all the help! Hopefully get this worked out here shortly.

-Nigel

 

Ah my bad, I thought you had the 3.0. Yes 56B is the correct relay with a 2.3

 

Found these on ebay.:

Mine looks like this: And is 5 prongs



Does it matter if I found these with the same part number of: F57B-14B192-AA that matches my white one but is black? These are also 5 prongs and appear to be the same?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F-150-T...sories&vxp=mtr

I figure 5 of them for 10 bucks isn't bad, I was planning on replaceing both the AC and the pump one just incase since my blower /ac was acting up as well.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

Assuming the part numbers are the same and they are internally the same, they should work just fine.