This how to is for adding either factory fog lights or aftermarket lights using stock fog light switches. I had no factory wiring whatsoever in my particular truck so I had to run my own. Two wires per circuit have to go through the firewall (ones the signal wire for the relay & the other is power for the on indicator) I mounted my relays close to the battery on the fender to avoid having a long run of "hot" wire to pin 30. This is how my truck is wired and it works perfectly.

*Always disconnect battery negative before performing any electrical repairs or upgrades*
**ONLY install related fuses AFTER you've double checked your wiring** safety first
RELAY WIRING:
-Pin 30 to battery positive (fused 20amp)
-Pin 85 to switched or constant power (fused 10amp)
-Pin 86 to BL/BK or terminal 3 on switch
-Pin 87 to lights AND T/O or terminal 6 on switch

SWITCH WIRING:
-Terminal 6 -Tan/Orange to Pin 87 on relay
-Terminal 5 -Red/Black (or Light Blue/Black) to dash Illumination
-Terminal 4 -Black to good grounding point
-Terminal 3 -Blue/Black to Pin 86 of relay

EXPLANATION:
-Pin 30 on relay goes to positive battery post, fused (20 amp) very close to the battery itself. If that fuse blows the wire between the battery and the fuse holder WILL STILL BE ENERGIZED! Keep that fuse close to minimize fire/shock danger.
-Pin 85 is power & you have a choice of which kind, switched or constant. I chose to run constant power to Pin 85 for those times I need light but can't be bothered to turn the key. Again use a 10 amp fuse on this wire close to your splice. This may be overkill as whichever circuit you choose will be fused from the factory but for under $5 it's worth adding some protection here.
-Pin 86 goes to the blue/black wire or terminal 3 on the fog light switch on the radio bezel. This is one of the two wires that penetrate the firewall, this wire is the "negative switching" you hear so much about. In this setup Pin 85 is the positive side of the relay making Pin 86 negative. All Ford did was put the switch here, making a connection to ground completing the circuit. Pretty clever really, in this setup if this wire shorts on the firewall or anywhere else the lights will simply come on, rather than sparks and blown fuses or worse.
-Pin 87 goes to the fog lights themselves. I grounded each light on the core support close to each one but you may want to run the ground back to the battery itself, I didn't. Here's where we run that second wire through the firewall, splice into Pin 87 either on the wire or the terminal itself and connect the other end to the Tan/Orange or terminal 6 on the fog light switch. This wire provides power for the on indicator, since it's tapped into the same wire powering the lights it will only light up the little indicator when the lights are on.

That's it for under the hood, now it's time to finish wiring the switch.

-The Tan/Orange & Blue/Black wires are already hooked up leaving only two to go.
- The Black wire (terminal 4) is, you guessed it, a ground! More like THE ground, remember negative switching? Here's that path to ground. I grounded mine to a bolt behind the stereo someplace, use a multimeter and make sure your grounding point is good.
-The final wire will either be Red/Black or Light Blue/Black depending on year, no matter, it's terminal 5 and performs the same function whatever color it happens to be, that function being dash illumination. I tapped into the LB/BK on the climate control since it was right there but you can use the same connection your aftermarket stereo does. This will illuminate the little picture of a light on the switch, if your bulb is still good that is.

And that's it, double check your connections, double check your wiring, hook up your battery, install a 10 amp fuse in the holder on pin 85 & a 20 amp fuse on pin 30 and go push that button! Just don't blind yourself with all that new light.

 

Nice writeup, however, it's worth explaining why the colors you chose are what they are. Why tan/orange for pin 87? Why blue/black for pin 86? The colors chosen will seem arbitrary without some form of explanation.

Another thing worth mentioning, a ten amp fuse is way, way too high for the low side of a relay. I don't know the number off hand, but the low side of the relay easily draws an amp or less. Ideally you'll want a 5 amp maximum on the low side.

One last thing. Pictures. Having a visual idea of what you're talking about helps in spades for people who aren't familiar with the task at hand.

Food for thought.

 

The wire color codes are factory. I did not "choose" them, Ford did. The first sentence explains the whole point of this how to, & if someone is going to refer to this write up they have a stock fog switch, 4 wires-1 is a ground, no too hard to figure out. Even without pics the depth of clarity here will result in a positive outcome given the interested party makes all of the same connections I did.

Now I agree, a 10 amp fuse on the low side of the relay is too high. Perhaps a 3 amp would suffice since this is a dedicated circuit being used here. I "borrowed" that info from an Expo wiring diagram since my bumper is from one. I will edit as soon as I am allowed. This 10 amp fuse is redundant anyway as its tied into a factory circuit.

Pics-apparently I cannot post any here in how to. I don't have any really, just a hand drawn wiring diagram. That's all up on my build page https://www.ranger-forums.com/projec...3/#post2108258

 

Where would the stock fog switch be located? I have a 2004 extended cab 2 door. There is a small rocker switch on the center console that appears to have no purpose.

 

From my '03 EDGE, 2dr... it is in the Radio Bezel.
Mine had one switch but I have seen two switch Bezels.

Added:

I have no idea about the Rocker Switch though... sounds aftermarket !

 

were do i bolt the fog lights up to. 1995 Ford Ranger xlt 4.0 wires and switch are there.

 

OK, let look at this logically...

Are the fog Lights OEM Replacement Units or after market, meaning stud type mounting ?

What is the Wattage of the new lights ?

Pictures of the lights ?

Do you want to use the existing Fog Light wiring and switches, would probably be the easiest way to wire them up ?

 

 

It says replacement. E7ZZ-15200 it says mustang, but its the same fog light for ford ranger. Stud mounting I got the valance panel at rockauto.com. F67Z-15200-aa is the model for the ford ranger

 

Most Ranger OEM Lights, not sure of Mustang fitment, but they bolt on from the rear of the Valance.
So I "assume" yours will do the same but can't say unless I see pictures.

Also, if the wiring was left up to me, I would do one of two things, contact "The Buggman" and get one of his conversion harnesses fro the Ranger OEM Switch. This would allow you to run the OEM Switch and operate the Lights as OEM, OR use a second relay mounted close to the battery, run a new larger gauge wire from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the lights, gauge of wire should be based on the Wattage/Amperage draw of the lights. Use the existing wiring to actuate the new really... ! Easier than I can write it out, but it will work, it will give you a larger power wire for less resistance and the lights should run brighter.

How about a picture of the new Fog Lights ?

 

Im trying to figure out how to post pictures

 

So if I wing it... the Fog Lights should bolt to the Valance.

You said you have the OEM Switch and wiring, hook up the wire with 12V to the positive connection on the lights.

If you want more light out of the Fog Lights, you might try what I wrote above, use the OEM wiring to trip a new relay with wiring to bring the most current to the lights.

OR, and maybe the best idea... Contact Buggman about the situation !

A question, "How does the OEM Wiring look ?
If good then you can buy a new really and new wiring and make it work, if the wiring looks bad... Contact the Buggman about his harness replacement for the Fog Lights !

 

The valance just has the hole for the fog lights, I would think the fog lights connect to a bracket or something on the truck. I am having problems posting pictures so if you want to see the valance go to rockauto.com 1995 ford ranger 4.0 xlt

 

 

I was wondering if you saw the pictures. There is no place on the valance to bolt the foglight. Just a hole in the valance to support the light.

 

I saw the pictures of the Valance, I thought you had the bracket son the truck already.
As I posted, I thought the brackets mounted to the Valance, as mine did for my 2003 EDGE.
You need to get a page from, or the Truck Repair manual, showing the the mounting of the lights, then you can attempt to locate the appropriate pieces.

I am not sure which ones you will need so you will have to find the picture of the backside of the Valance and the lights mounted or an exploded view.

Sorry I can't help you more with the mounting except get a manual !

Just to clarify about the manual, I purchased my first Harley in a BASKET, I guess a basket case, I purchase a manual, and wham bam, a complete Harley to ride at a fraction of the price of a completed Harley.
This is where you are to some extent, get some info from somewhere, check out your situation, pt it together !

Ltr

 

95rangerman,

How did this go ?

Are the Fog Lights Mounted ?

What did you do on the wiring ?

 

The wiring is already there from the factory. The switch is in the bezel. I got a stress fracture on my foot, thats stopping me from just taking the valance thats on there, and just putting the one with the holes for the foglights on.

 

Sorry to hear about the fracture, always take the necessary time to let it mend properly !

As to the Truck and Fog Lights, they will still be there once the foot is back to normal.

Good Luck !

 

Thank You I will let you know when I get them in!!!

 

Ltr