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Old 03-31-2010
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How-To: Sub Enclosure Dimensions for Jump seat Cavity

***Disclaimer :
Neither we nor accept any responsibility for actions taken during or resulting from attempting this modification. Bear in mind that you perform this modification solely at your own risk. ***

Modification: Sub Enclosure Dimensions for Jump seat Cavity

How-To author: RentonRanger

Original thread:

Let the modding Begin!!


I've had several inquiries about how I built my sub box so that it would fit into the jumpseat location.

First off, let me give credit where credit is due. Special thanks to Maurice (lifted97ranger) and Logan (My91Ranger). Both of these guys had already built similar boxes and posted pics, I just asked them a few questions and went from there.

Tools needed are just basic shop tools such as:
Circular saw
Screw gun
Brad nailer (if you have one, not absolutely necessary)
Liquid Nail
Ratchet set
3/4" MDF

Assembly of the box is pretty straightforward. Just make sure your cuts are true and that you use a good, long bead of liquid nail in all the joints. This will ensure you have a nice, tight seal all the way around.

Remove the jumpseat. This just takes the removal of a few bolts and it's out.

The following pics are of the finished box after final assembly. I didn't think to take pics as I was building it, so I removed it and took several shots and included a tape measure so you can get a better idea of the dimensions.



Be sure to use some silicone to seal the hole where you run your speaker wire so the seal of the box isn't compromised.

The following are shots of the hole that I drilled in the bottom of the box so that it could be bolted to the floor of the cab. Dont mind the small hole and the poker chip covering it, that was my first (missed) attempt. Measurements are taken from the front, left corner of the box.

This is the bolt hole you will use to secure the box to the cab floor (The one with the red triangle around it).

You will need to get a longer bolt in order to make up for the additional space between the bottom of the box and the bolt hole. I just took the original jumpseat bolt to the local hardware store and matched up the threads.

Here is the finished box before installing. I put some polyfill in it to help out with the sound. There will be plenty of room to get a ratchet in the speaker hole in order to bolt the box in.

After you've installed the box and bolted it to the floor, just screw in your sub of choice (mine is a 10" Kicker), wire it up and you're done!

For a little added bonus, I also took some shots of where I mounted my amp. All I did was pull the rear panel and cut out some of the foam padding. I then took a piece of 3/4" plywood and screwed that in place of the padding I just removed. Screw the amp into the panel and plywood, drill a few holes to run your wiring and re-install the panel.

Hope this helps everyone out. Any questions, please just ask!

Happy building!
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Old 03-12-2014
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I am: John Ball
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: north carolina
Vehicle: 2006 ranger 4x4 xlt 4.0
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this is exactly what im looking to do but would there be a way for my 06 where the seat fold into the door flush (i dont know if thats how your truck is) to have the speaker set flush with the door like the seat did.
i like speakers but i want them to look clean and professionally done and this job looks great
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Old 06-14-2014
I am: Dylan Rush
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Hesperia
Vehicle: 2001 ford ranger edg
Drive Type: 2wd
Engine: 4.0
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this is legit!

another great how to DIY thread you can do, is your nitrous kit install! i went through your entire list of "started threads" and didnt find it :[
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Old 07-12-2014
I am: Josh w
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Ladoga, Indiana
Vehicle: 2006 Ford Ranger
Drive Type: 4x4
Engine: 4.0
Posts: 19
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This is excellent. I've had this Idea with mine since I got it. I bet if you used a shallow mount sub and edited the dimensions you could get a flush to close to flush fit. This looks and probably sounds amazing.
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