**FULL DISCLAIMER**
This is a salvaged part from my local u-pull & as of yet untested!

I have a factory Ford Ranger full length center console with a down-firing sub woofer & amp. The console itself is two separate pieces, a Expo shorty console and a large front cover with cupholders and a small storage tray. This was salvaged from a 2007 xlt and NOT A TREMOR model, that's a whole different animal.

Everything in pictures is included in the sale, that includes:
-Two part console
-Subwoofer/amp/moulded sub box
-Armrest **not original, slightly damaged. See last pic.
-Grey armrest cover. In case brown ain't your thing.
-Black armrest hinge
-Associated hardware
-Liner for cupholder/storage tray and compartment insert.
-Section of harness to sub. Sorry the HU was gone and the harness hacked up when I got there.

**This console was not mounted like an Explorer in that there is no forward bracket. Instead the sub bolts to the dash with a bracket and the opposite end rests inside the front section of the Expo shorty then secured to the floor with the two yellowish square pieces. Some creativity may be needed in your install.

Some information on wiring can be found here, pg 5 https://www.ranger-forums.com/projec...eg-cab-148803/
This is limited info & for a different year, but it's a start.

LETS GET DOWN TO IT
I'm asking $150 plus shipping for everything. Will ship from Albuquerque New Mexico. Also willing to sell with the actual sub woofer and amp removed from the box to keep weight down, the empty moulded box is still included. You would need to provide your own sub/amp doing it this way. The price for that would be $125.

I've decided to put it up for sale here at RF exclusively, and for one week before I offer it up locally. Right now right here is the only one you will find, so act fast.

 

Sounds like a great idea. Looks nice. You wouldn't know there was a sub in that cup holder. My question is. Does the sub vibration shake change and cups in the cup holder? Had a sub in a big trunk. All the dust it brought to the top of the carpet.

If the vibration gets isolated you have something great here. Never seen or heard of something like this. Always see corner subs. Favorite is the magnetic plate sub. It is 2 inches thick. You tighten it down to the frame of the truck or car as hard as you can. It then makes the entire ride a sub woofer.

You have a good price for it. I hope you do well.
Jim

 

Like I said its untested & pulled from the JY. The subwoofer is bolted to the dash & to the floor & fires downward. I would expect it to vibrate though since its a subwoofer & the front cover (cupholders) is screwed to the sub enclosure. I'm sure it'll stir your coffee for ya.

 

I was looking at one of those on ebay last night. The idea is sound, but I had the same thought on change and stuff rattling. Plus I couldn't find much on wiring it up with that factory amp either. But I like the idea and the sub box form itself is worth most of the asking price. GLWS

 

**This is provided as a STARTING POINT ONLY and BY NO MEANS should you hook ANYTHING up using the theory described below. Do your own research please.**

This was the closest diagram that I could find. I have already (in theory) figured it out.



This is the wiring harness for that factory amplifier.






This is what I gather so far. First off Ford uses a 5v signal to turn the amplifier on/off whereas an aftermarket receiver sends a 12v signal. So a voltage regulator or a resistor is needed to get it to work without a "pop" when it turns on. I will provide a 4.7k resistor for this purpose. This is only needed if using an aftermarket HU.

For clarity:
BK-black
LB-light blue
LG-light green
RD-red
V-violet
W-white

Now we see here 8 wires, I know the subwoofer is a dual coil so that explains 4 wires right off the bat. They are the 2 BK/LB & the 2 LG/RD (the LG/RD ones are positive). A little trial & error will sort that out.

There's still 4 wires to sort out, 3 of which are bundled up together in their own separate sheathing & one of those three is the bare/unsheilded wire you see. I believe that to be the ground but I'm not sure. Logic tells us the amp needs a power, signal, ground, and an audio signal. Since we've figured out the audio signal & (I think) the ground that leaves the power wire and the amp sig which I believe to be the other 2 in the sheathing (LG/W & V/LG), power wires tend to be sheilded, in my mind. Which is which I have no idea. That's leaving one last wire, V/RD. I think this is a "mute" wire, a leftover from the factory head unit.

Ford factory amps use a speaker level input rather than line level so if using an aftermarket HU you will need to use a line level converter.

**This is as far as I got before I decided to sell everything. I DID NOT try any if this out. This is a good starting point but still------------------DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH! Wiring as described above may result in tragedy, always double check please.

And a crappy pic of it installed in the donor truck for reference.

 

From the looks of it, I think you did pretty good on the starting points. Of course, you always have a lot of probing to do in any project like this......lest you get like I did when I was 17 and try to hurry up and bypass that pesky fuse that wouldn't stop blowing......which led to a long line of burnt carpet from an overheated and thus melted power wire. lol

 

Still available

 

---SOLD---