Where should the fire extinguisher?
#1
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Where should the fire extinguisher?
Well went out and got me a fire extinguisher today for the truck.. just not sure where to put it.. Comes with a mounting bracket and such.. post up pics where you put yours!
Its a 7.75oz First Alert auto extinguisher.. im thinking about getting a second one, but not sure.. let me know what you think....
its rated B and C
Its a 7.75oz First Alert auto extinguisher.. im thinking about getting a second one, but not sure.. let me know what you think....
its rated B and C
#3
#5
Best place to mount it is inside the cab somewhere safe. When I say safe, I mean somewhere that it isn't going to get beat on or have the pin knocked out.
#7
Also for the most part dry chem isn't that much of a mess to clean up..vacuum or sweep it away...and as fire ranger posted above...i think i'd rather have a repair bill rather than totaling my truck due to fire loss...also the price of halon is just unreal vs the price of an ABC (dry chem).
#8
For a vehicle, I would recomend a BC rather than an ABC. The chemical power in an ABC can actually be damaging to electronic components and is more difficult to clean up. I would get a BC only.
If you are going to insist on a gaseous extinguisher rather than a podwer, than CO2 is the way to go. But just know that it is limited in its abilities and usually has a bulky expansion bell on the end of the hose.
If you are going to insist on a gaseous extinguisher rather than a podwer, than CO2 is the way to go. But just know that it is limited in its abilities and usually has a bulky expansion bell on the end of the hose.
Last edited by FireRanger; 03-11-2009 at 04:21 PM.
#10
For a vehicle, I would recomend a BC rather than an ABC. The chemical power in an ABC can actually be damaging to electronic components and is more difficult to clean up. I would get a BC only.
If you are going to insist on a gaseous extinguisher rather than a power, than CO2 is the way to go. But just know that it is limited in its abilities and usually has a bulky expansion bell on the end of the hose.
If you are going to insist on a gaseous extinguisher rather than a power, than CO2 is the way to go. But just know that it is limited in its abilities and usually has a bulky expansion bell on the end of the hose.
#15
For a vehicle I'd recommend one of these instead of dry chem
http://www.fireadesource.com/
Rating Note: Our 16 oz. fire extinguishers are rated for Class A and Class B fires. The extinguishers are safe and effective to use on Class C fires involving 12 volt power, such as the electrical systems in cars, boats and RVs. All Class C fires become a Class A or B fire when power is shut off.
After seeing the demo presented to our fire company , we use this in our tanks instead of class A foam.
It's faster , cleaner , and not corrosive.
http://www.fireadesource.com/
Rating Note: Our 16 oz. fire extinguishers are rated for Class A and Class B fires. The extinguishers are safe and effective to use on Class C fires involving 12 volt power, such as the electrical systems in cars, boats and RVs. All Class C fires become a Class A or B fire when power is shut off.
After seeing the demo presented to our fire company , we use this in our tanks instead of class A foam.
It's faster , cleaner , and not corrosive.
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I know the Halon we use on the ships only work at 900+ degree temps and you have to have an air tight compartment for it to be effective. And from what I can remember, the military (Navy) are the only people authorized to use it because of the toxicity.
Can you mount it on the hump in the floor where the transmission/drive shaft are on the passenger side?
And for those who don't know
Class A fire: anything that burns and leaves ash. Paper, wood, people.
Class B fire: chemical, gas, oil
Class C fire: electrical. (if you turn off the power and the flame doesn't go out, then it's a Class A fire.
Class D fire: metal fires such as magnesium and phosphorous.
Can you mount it on the hump in the floor where the transmission/drive shaft are on the passenger side?
And for those who don't know
Class A fire: anything that burns and leaves ash. Paper, wood, people.
Class B fire: chemical, gas, oil
Class C fire: electrical. (if you turn off the power and the flame doesn't go out, then it's a Class A fire.
Class D fire: metal fires such as magnesium and phosphorous.
#23
I know the Halon we use on the ships only work at 900+ degree temps and you have to have an air tight compartment for it to be effective. And from what I can remember, the military (Navy) are the only people authorized to use it because of the toxicity.
Can you mount it on the hump in the floor where the transmission/drive shaft are on the passenger side?
And for those who don't know
Class A fire: anything that burns and leaves ash. Paper, wood, people.
Class B fire: chemical, gas, oil
Class C fire: electrical. (if you turn off the power and the flame doesn't go out, then it's a Class A fire.
Class D fire: metal fires such as magnesium and phosphorous.
Can you mount it on the hump in the floor where the transmission/drive shaft are on the passenger side?
And for those who don't know
Class A fire: anything that burns and leaves ash. Paper, wood, people.
Class B fire: chemical, gas, oil
Class C fire: electrical. (if you turn off the power and the flame doesn't go out, then it's a Class A fire.
Class D fire: metal fires such as magnesium and phosphorous.
btw...lmao at your class A description...never thought of it that way.