Hey yall, new to this forum and to ford, I'm a Mopar guy but couldn't pass up this deal. Bought myself a 95 B2300 nicknamed "Manger". 2.5L 5spd 2wd 191,000 runs like a top. Love this truck. Being new to ford, what are some things I should watch for, common problems, stuff like that, also how reliable are they?

 

Welcome to the forum

1995 was the first year of Ford's newer EEC-V computer in Rangers, EEC-V computer is still being used.
OBD2 readers/scanners sometimes have a hard time connecting to these first year computers.

Your 2.5l is a SOHC Lima engine, made at Ford's Lima, Ohio engine plant.
They came out in 1974(Ford Pinto), they came in 2.0l, 2.3l and your 2.5l.
Last year for the Lima's was 2001

In late 2001 Rangers got the 2.3l Mazda/Duratec DOHC engines, totally different engine.

Limas do use a timing belt, change time is 80k miles, but it is a non-interference engine so valves can't hit pistons if belt should break.
Limas were very reliable engines, and could run up high miles if maintained.

Transmission will be the M5OD-R1, very reliable as well, it uses ATF, yes automatic trans fluid, not gear oil.
There are 3 rubber plugs at the top rear of the trans, these can crack and leak fluid out.
It is very important not to run low on fluid, so check it when you change the oil.
Next time clutch needs to be changed you can pull out the trans and install Dorman metal plugs, or not, up to you really.

Chassis racks up miles well, rear brake line can rust out in frame rail, and rear leaf spring hangers can rust out, but that is more "pickup truck" than just Ranger.

I still have original fuel pump in my '94, but they do eventually fail.
Sliding back, or removing the bed, gives best access to change pump.

191k is just "broke in" should rack up another 100k at least trouble free, well....hopefully

 

Awesome thank you. I was wrong it is the 2.3L. It has this weird idle problem I can't figure out maybe you know. When I'm coming to a stop I push in the clutch and put it in neutral. While coasting it idles at 1500-2000 rpms until the truck stops completely. Once it's stopped it drops to 1000-1100 rpms. Sometimes it drops to 900rpms but then runs choppy. I was thinking maybe TPS but idk. Any ideas? I just got the truck last week. I love it but no nothing of its history.

 

Nice car. welcome aboard

 

The high idle while coasting is normal, it was added with the new computer.
Along with shift "hold RPM" software, i.e. when you shift gears while moving the RPM "holds" for a few seconds.

Both are done to lower emissions, when above 5MPH, foot off the gas pedal, RPMs will be higher, less emissions than at idle, which is Richer air/fuel mix.

The Lima engines are higher RPM engines, torque range is above 2,500rpm, so they do tend to idle higher than a V6 or V8, most 4cyls do.

But with a manual trans I would expect 750-800 so does seems a little high.
Could be TPS but I would check for vacuum leak first.

After engine is warmed up let it idle and unplug the IAC(idle air control) Valve, idle should drop down to 500rpm or engine may even stall, either is good it means no vacuum leak.
If idle doesn't change then there is a leak.
Small leak won't effect higher RPM as much, but at idle it gets too lean and runs rough.

IAC Valves do need to be cleaned, MAF sensor as well, generally I will do this and change the fuel filter every 5 years or so.


TPS is easy to test with volt meter and sewing pin.
It will have 3 wires, top wire has 5 volts from computer, reference voltage
Lower wire is the Ground
Center wire is the one to test, return signal wire to computer
Push sewing pin into center wire

Turn on the key
Set volt meter to DC Volts
Ground meter probe and put other probe on sewing pin
.69-.99 volts is what you should see, under 1 volt
Manually open throttle and watch voltage
Should be a nice steady climb up in voltage, no jumping or dropping
At wide open throttle voltage should be above 4.5volts

Just as a couple of heads up, fuel injection engines can't use an idle screw, doesn't work well.
But there is a screw on the throttle linkage, this is for TPS fine tuning and for anti-dieseling, but people often "play with it", lol.
In the IAC Valve test, if the RPMs don't drop down some one could have adjusted this screw, to set higher idle, which it will do but it throws off other things.
So with IAC Valve unplug you can adjust this screw and see if idle drops down, 500-550rpm is what you want.

Other heads up is throttle cable, they stretch, so put something heavy on the gas pedal so it is pressed down all the way, then see if you can open the throttle a little more manually, if so then you need to do the "throttle cab mod"
Google it
Very very easy to do, couple of wire ties on cable end in the cab.

 

Thanks, I was leery of buying ford at first because of all the horror stories my grandfather has told me over the years, but I've come to love it, I hope it lasts me a good long while, and if it don't then i'll most likely buy another one lol.

 

Thank you for all the advice and tips, you seem very well informed. I appreciate it, as I stated before I'm brand new to ford. Looks like I've got some things to go test, I'll keep yall informed as I go along.

 

I only buy Ford Trucks and GM cars.

GM trucks always nickle and dimed me to death, starters and water pumps, door handles and window cranks(back in the day, lol).
Just seemed like I always needed something.

Ford trucks do break, but longer time between problems.

GM does know how to build cars, nice looking and good driving cars too, Ford never got the knack of that, they do have some, but like the truck break downs, they are few and far between, lol